Auxiliary LED lights

I would suggest making a couple changes to your idea. Unless you have a separate switch that you are going to install to control the lights you don't want to use the "hot in run" wiring because then the lights will be on all the time the truck is running including the day time and this is not only not needed but will wear them out sooner. You want to be able to control them. I always like using existing wiring and switches so I would just take them onto the fog light system.

Basically the way this works is your lights should have a power wire and control wire. You hook the power wires to the battery, and the control wire to the wire I point to in the diagrams. This way when you turn the fog lights on, these lights will come on but they get power directly from the battery.

Unfortunately I don't see any "aux" fuse cavities that you can use for this. Unfortunately OEM's didn't provide this type of options as they built it for what they wanted and that is it. In recent years, I know Ram has done this for larger trucks like 3500 -5500 trucks.

If this doesn't make sense, send me a picture of the connectors you have on these lights and if they provided a wiring diagram, then I can help figure out what wire goes where.

Also, let me know if you are going to use your own switch mounted in the cab. If you are then we can pretty much just run them off a main fuse unless they came with their own circuit protection.

Don't use those add-on fuse terminals. GM already has more trouble than any one else with loose fuse and relay box terminals causing intermittent problems. You don't want to aggravate that. The problem actually occurs when you remove that terminal, such as when removing accessories when preparing to sell or trade the vehicle. That leaves you with a spread terminal in the fuse box, and intermittent problems when the prospective buyer is test-driving the vehicle.

In the past, GM has been pretty good about providing empty fuse box terminals exactly for the purpose you're after. Give me a minute to find the fuse box layout and I'll see if I can find the right one.

The next best alternative is to splice your new wire into an existing wire, but do not use Scotch-Lok connectors for that. Those don't seal out moisture, so both wires will corrode very quickly. Instead, strip a small section of insulation, solder the new wire to that spot, then seal it with heat-shrink tubing with hot-melt glue inside. You can find that at any auto parts store. Don't use electrical tape as that will unravel into a gooey mess on a hot day.

Seems the online service manual company we subscribe to has removed the fuse box layouts for vehicles starting with the 2014 model year. I ran into this a few months ago with my 2014 Ram. You're in good hands with KASEKENNY1. My reply showed up later since I was still typing, so I'm going to wait on the side in case you need my wondrous wisdom.

Yes. DRL would be find. I would just find a close chassis ground and use that. You can use a supplied ground wire but it is always best to use a separate wire and take it to ground just to be safe.