ATF as a fuel injector cleaner

I have heard of people adding about a quart of automatic transmission fluid to their engine oil to dissolve sludge for a car they just bought that had been neglected by the previous owner. That is done once, and is drained out within about one hundred to three hundred miles. Transmission fluid does not have the additives engine oil needs, so this is only done right before the oil is scheduled to be changed. I saw a coworker do this to two cars, and it was quite effective. I have never heard of adding transmission fluid to gas. In fact, you are not likely to solve any problem by adding injector cleaner to gas. The gas you buy already has a lot of detergents and other additives in it that do a pretty effective job. Adding a can of highly-concentrated same stuff is not going to do anything.

The idea with gasoline is you want it to burn smoothly and evenly, but ignite very quickly. You do not want transmission fluid to burn or ignite, so why would you put that in gas? Unlike GM, Chrysler has almost no injector problems, so there is nothing to clean or solve. I have only read about two people needing to replace the older-style throttle body injectors in 1980's model cars, and that includes working at a very nice Chrysler dealership for ten years. I have a dozen Chrysler products, and most have fuel injection. My last daily driver, a rusty trusty 1988 Grand Caravan was so rusty, the carpet was the only thing holding the front and rear together. The engine had well over 420,000 miles, with the original injectors, an never any type of maintenance other than to replace the spark plugs four or five times in its life.

Whatever problem you are trying to solve, do the proper diagnostic steps. Do not add to your troubles by adding a thick fluid that will not burn. You do not want engine oil going into your catalytic converters, and transmission fluid is closer to engine oil than it is to gas.

Oxygen sensors have to reach 600 degrees before they start to work. There is an electric heater in them to get things going faster than with the older style that just waited for exhaust gas to heat them up. In your case, even with the heaters working, the sensors might drop low enough in temperature to where they become sluggish, or the Engine Computer might be running some of its self-tests that put the system into a temporarily-lean condition. Regardless, operation of the sensors is monitored by the Engine Computer, and the test results from properly-working sensors is always being evaluated by the computer. If a problem is detected, the computer will set the appropriate fault code, and since it would be related to emissions, it will turn on the Check Engine light.

You need to start a new question for a new problem. Other people researching this problem won't see your post because of the different title, and the other experts won't have a chance here to add their solutions. That won't get you the help you need.