ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY ARE GOOD BUT BATTERY LIGHT STAYS ON

Tiny
MIGHTY MIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 LINCOLN NAVIGATOR
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
I bought this vehicle as is. No lights were on the dash, drove it for about thirty minutes and suddenly all dash lights started to flicker on and off like crazy, barely made it home. I tried to start it ten minutes later but the battery was almost dead, just heard clicks. I checked the alternator which was bad, producing less than 4 volts. I replaced it with a rebuilt alternator producing maximum 13.4 volts and it fixed the charging problem. I checked the battery and it was good. Although the charging system is working, producing 13.4 volts, Now my battery light stays on and message reads "Check Charging System". Could it be that the rebuilt alternator is not producing enough voltage or is it something else? I checked all cables, cleaned battery posts, tightened all contacts and connections but it did not help, battery light is still on. Also, I get a message to check ADVTRAC, but I have no idea what that means. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Wednesday, October 5th, 2016 AT 4:07 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
When you have the charging system code it needs to be cleared to stop the warning message for showing up here is a video to show you how.

https://youtu.be/ahK_eucFi-k

If you clear the codes and the warning comes back lets make sure the fusible links have power on both sides. Here is a guide and the alternator wiring diagrams to help you test and see how the system works.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check the two fusible links in picture they should have battery voltage both sides. The problem may be the PCM but lets run some tests first. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.
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Wednesday, October 5th, 2016 AT 6:39 AM
Tiny
MIGHTY MIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Although I appreciate for your reply I'm not sure I understand. The alternator is definitely charging the battery and does not drain overnight but the battery light continues to stay on. Before spending money to test the fusible links, please advise If the alternator will still charge the battery with a faulty or blown out fusible link? Thanks.
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Sunday, October 9th, 2016 AT 12:42 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It will charge if one link is still working. This maybe a poor connection at pcm.

There is a tsb on this to reprogram the pcm and check connections for being faulty but due to age of truck i'm not sure it will be taken care of so you will need to call a dealer about this. There is a sleeve and protective grease that needs to be installed.
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Sunday, October 9th, 2016 AT 2:24 PM
Tiny
MIGHTY MIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
OK, now its starting to make sense. I was told a blown fusible link will trigger the battery light to come on and will not charge the battery. Based on what you are saying, if one of the fusible links is faulty it will cause the battery light to come on but will continue to charge the battery. If that's the case, I will need to start by checking the fusible links and take it from there. Can you tell me precisely where the links are located and how to test them. Can they be tested with a multimeter in the vehicle or is it necessary to remove them completely and then check both ends. If you have any images of this procedure it will be quite helpful. Thank you kindly for your help, I will let you know the outcome asap.
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Monday, October 10th, 2016 AT 3:19 AM
Tiny
MIGHTY MIKE
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Sorry, I forgot to mention that I did notice a 5" rectangular plastic casing covering 2 gray wires wrapped up in electrical electrical tape and run between the battery and alternator one was burnt through so I replaced it that fixed the problem and I had to clear the codes thanks for the video. Thanks again I love this site.
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Monday, October 10th, 2016 AT 3:58 AM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Good to hear, please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.

Cheers
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Monday, October 10th, 2016 AT 6:38 AM
Tiny
PEYTON RUCKER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I'm having a similar issue on my Ford explorer I changed the alternator yesterday everything was fine after and now this morning the battery light came on but the charge is not dropping all the way had batter tested and it got but says not getting any volts from the new alternator
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Wednesday, October 30th, 2019 AT 8:49 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Hi,

It appears your system has an alternator which means it is a PCM controller voltage regulator. Generators are the ones with internal voltage regulators and are replaced with the generator. Take a look at the attachments but Navigators with this issue usually have a failed regulator in the PCM. Let me know if you have questions. Otherwise, lets get a new post started with your Explorer info. However, these are almost identical to the Lincoln vehicles.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new
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Wednesday, October 30th, 2019 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
NICK CUDDEMI
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I replace my alternator and my battery light would come on and then go off as I accelerated. So then I replaced my ECM, but my battery light keeps coming on in off. Also my battery is good. Anyone have any advice I would really appreciate it? It's a 2004 Isuzu ascender 4.2 liter.
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Sunday, April 25th, 2021 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This could be a couple of things. First I would stop by a parts store and have the battery and alternator load tested. Even though the alternator is new, doesn't mean it is a good part. We have seen many times where people get burned due to faulty new parts.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Then if this light is going off when you raise the RPM then that means by spinning the alternator faster to increase the output puts the voltage over the minimum spec to turn the light off.

If all this checks out then I suspect you have a wiring issue. I would perform either a voltage drop or resistance measurement of each of the wires from the PCM to the alternator. Also, through the fusible link from the battery to the alternator. You should have less then a half ohm of resistance.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please let us know if you have other questions. Thanks.
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Monday, April 26th, 2021 AT 7:32 PM

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