How to reset the Alarm system

Hello, it could be several things. The horn may not be working or disconnected etc. I have attached a few things for you. Hope this helps.

1997 2.2CL with factory-installed security system
1998 2.3CL with factory-installed security system
1997-99 3.0CL with factory-installed security system

Programming the Transmitter

NOTES: This system accepts up to four transmitters.

Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the programming mode.

You must perform each of the first twelve steps within 5 seconds of each other to enter programming mode. Programming each transmitter (step 13) must be done within 10 seconds.

1. Make sure the doors are unlocked.

2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

3. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter.

4. Turn the ignition switch to ACCESSORY (I) or LOCK (0).

5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

6. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter.

7. Turn the ignition switch to ACCESSORY (I) or LOCK (0).

8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

9. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter.

10. Turn the ignition switch to ACCESSORY (I) or LOCK (0).

11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).

12. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the door locks cycle to indicate that the system has entered programming mode.

13. Press the "LOCK" button on each transmitter that is being programmed. Make sure the power door locks cycle each time to indicate the transmitter has been accepted.

14. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.

Turning the Audible Chirp On/Off

To turn the audible chirp on, press and hold the "TRUNK RELEASE" button, then immediately press and hold the "LOCK" button. The LED on the transmitter will come on for one second. Release the buttons when the LED goes out. Repeat this procedure to turn the audible chirp off. The LED will blink twice.

Ordering a Transmitter

Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Acura dealers. Order them from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures.

Batteries for the Transmitter

The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.

Test/Check Horn

Disconnect the 3P connector from the siren.
Remove the siren.
Test the siren by connecting battery power to the No. 1 terminal and grounding to the No. 3 terminal. The siren should sound.
If the siren fails to sound, replace it.

Test Module

SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations, precautions, and procedures in the Supplemental Restraint System before performing repairs or service.

Remove the passenger's seat.
Disconnect the 12P and 18P connectors from the security control unit.
Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact. If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system. If the terminals look OK, make the following input tests at the connector terminals.
If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
If all the input tests prove OK, the control unit must be faulty; replace it.

Disconnect the 12P and 18P connectors terminals from the unit.

Reconnect the 12P and 18P connectors terminals to the unit.

Hello â€

Hey first I am sorry.....I have been out of town so never saw your question. For future reference, any time you see a previous post... It is always best to post a new question and then reference the post. Once you post it on the site then any of the moderators can assist you and you will not be left just hanging. I certainly don’t mind assisting but as you see, I was out of town and this went directly to me...(Which you meant) but then you had to wait. So again, sorry about that.

As for your question....... None that I can see. If you do have a draw, the best thing to do is track it down. Try the parasitic draw test below.

Battery Drain
Parasitic Draw Testing
© Copyright 2000 - 2006 Chuck Kopelson 12/01/2003
Updated December 14, 2008
by Wayne O. Wenzlaff and Chuck Kopelson 4/15/2007
What is parasitic draw? All vehicles draw some power from the batteries when the car is shut off. Certain accessories such as clocks, radios remote door openers and alarms always need power. The normal power used is called parasitic draw. It is always a very low draw so it doesn't run the battery down. If you install accessories like shortwave radios or plug things like invertors and portable refrigerators into the accessory socket and operate them too long without the engine running you can drain your batteries to the point where the engine won't start. If there is an electrical short in the vehicle or a malfunctioning accessory it could be drawing much more than its normal load causing a drain on the batteries. If you leave your door open and the inside lights stay on all night you could drain the battery down till the car won't start. My 98 draws 3.5 amps with the front door open. Usually what happens is the truck is dead when you first go to start it.
The first thing to do is a test for a major short. Remove the positive and negative cables from the batteries. Put an Ohm-meter across the positive and negative cable. If your reading is close to 0 Ohms then you have a direct short. I read 150 ohms on my stock 98. You need to trace the short before you can perform the following tests.
In order to check for parasitic draw, you need to be careful so you don't ruin your meter. At the risk of sounding like an elementary teacher, here's what you need to do.
1. If you don't already have one, get a digital meter capable of reading up to 10 amps DC. Sears sells them for less than $50 - I bought one on sale for $14.99 that I leave in my truck.
2. Your battery must have a reasonable charge for this test - it won't work if your battery is dead. Quick proof - if your dome light operates normally, you're fine. My truck wouldn't start and the batteries were down to 5.5 volts so I put a charger on the batteries overnight. They are now 12.2 V. When I started the truck the voltage went to 14.3 V so the alternator is working.
3. Check to make sure ALL loads are turned off. Unplug anything you may have plugged into the cigarette lighter. Remove your keys from the ignition. Close all doors so the dome lights are off.
4. Disconnect the thick positive (Red) cable that goes down to the starter.
5. To start make sure your meter is set to the 10 amp DC range. Some meters have a special connector for the red probe when you are reading current. The meter pictured on the left has one jack for high amps and one for low amps. If yours does, make sure the meter end of the probe is in the right connector. You can either do this next step by just holding the meter probes to their respective contact points (you won't get a shock from 12 volts) or you can use probes with alligator clips to snap them in place so your hands are free to do something else.
6. Connect the positive probe to the battery - either battery is fine, electrically speaking, since they are connected together by the negative (Black) wires. Polarity on digital meters doesn't matter because they are autosensing.
7. Connect the negative probe to the red cable that is still connected to the vehicle. Make sure this cable and your probe do not touch ground.
8. If there is a severe current draw (more than 10 amps) it will either pop a fuse in your meter or destroy it outright. That's why you need to test for a short, otherwise, your meter should now be reading the current drain on your battery.
9. If your vehicle has an alarm system or remote locks, the current draw may be around 2-3 amps for a few minutes after you last close the door. This is normal. If you're not sure, wait at least 20 minutes after you last open or close a door before you take a reading.
10. If everything is normal, you will read less than 35 milliamps, or.035 amps. If the current drain is higher than that, you need to find out what is draining your batteries: You can start by pulling fuses until the load goes away. If that doesn't reduce the draw, you need to look for a wire that is corroded or frayed.

Hi evette829,

Thank you for the donation.

Quite often alarm self triggering are due to door or hood switches that are out of adjustment and any vibration would cause them to trigger. It seldom is a fault with the control unit.

If you have the door ajar indicator flashing randomly while driving, then the fault is caused by an out of alignment door or door switch that is not contacting correctly.

The hood switch would not indicate that it is not adjusted correctly.

I could not find any decomissioning data for the alarm system in the manual so there should be no way of doing it.