A/C not working

Tiny
DES.NAPIER
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 CHEVROLET SONIC
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 106,000 MILES
A/C won't blow cold air. Jumped /AC clutch (at clutch relay) and it will engage and blow cold. Replaced clutch relay with new/no help. System shows approximately 100 lb of 134A When you push the on/off switch light comes on but nothing happens.

Thanks in advance for any info that you might provide to me to solve the problem

Des
Friday, May 29th, 2020 AT 2:02 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. If you jumped the clutch and it comes on and operates then you are not getting power to the compressor. This could be the fuse, relay, wiring or ECM.

To start testing this, let's remove the relay and jump pin 30 to pin 87 and see if the compressor comes on. If it does then this proves out the fuse and wiring to the compressor.

Then test voltage when the AC is on at pin 86 at the relay. If you are getting 12 volts then this proves out the ECM and wiring from that.

If both these check out then the relay is the issue. However, since you already replaced that I suspect we are going to find the issue with doing this.

Let me know what questions you have and we can go from there. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring
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Friday, May 29th, 2020 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
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Good Morning,

I jumped the compressor again with pin 30/87 and A/C works. Just checked voltage at pin 86 with the clutch relay removed, engine running with the A/C switch in on position. Got a reading of 14.5 volts. I have found a video on how to check the relays and according to the video. My relays test good at least according to the video.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2020 AT 8:02 AM
Tiny
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Okay. The way this works is the relay get power from terminal 85 which is from the ECM 2 fuse. We should check this fuse but I am sure it is fine since you didn't mention a check engine light and the vehicle seems to operate fine other then this.

The ECM grounds the coil in the relay through terminal 86 which closes the contact on terminal 30, to engage the clutch through terminal 87.

So if you jump power from 30 to 87 and it works and you have battery power at 85 (proving out the ECM 2 fuse) and with the relay out you have voltage at 86, that leaves the relay and the ECM itself.

If the relay has been replaced and the new one tested ok, then that leaves the ECM. This could be the ECM has failed or the ECM is just not grounding the relay because it is getting a signal from the pressure sensor that is not accurate so it thinks the pressure is too high.

These sensors are pretty cheap if you just want to replace it. If you want to test it, you need to monitor voltage on all three wires. Just back probe the sensor with it plugged in and AC on and let me know what you have on each wire.
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Saturday, May 30th, 2020 AT 6:01 PM
Tiny
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Sorry, I did fail to tell you that I do have a check engine light.
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Sunday, May 31st, 2020 AT 5:43 AM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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Interesting. Let's find out what code that is before we go much further. It may not be related but clearly we need to start with that.

If you don't have a scan tool, just stop by a parts store and they should be able to scan it free of charge. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing
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Sunday, May 31st, 2020 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
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Finally got the codes read. Have one code three times and it is P0128 Coolant Thermostat
Will replacing that solve the problem? The warning light for coolant is not on but does light up when ignition is first turned on.

Thanks,
Des
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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2020 AT 6:43 AM
Tiny
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It could. It is definitely one of the possible causes. I attached the testing that we need to do in order to find out if the coolant temp sensor is the issue or something else.

Let me know if you have questions and we can go from there. Thanks
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Tuesday, June 2nd, 2020 AT 7:20 PM

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