A/C not blowing cold air

Hello, I'm Danny.

It sounds like you are having a problem with the mode actuator.It is located on the HVAC unit under the dash on the right side. It's a small electrical motor that opens/closes a door to move air through specific air ducts. Here is a tutorial showing what is involved in its replacement:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

These guides can help as well

https://youtu.be/uZrQCGwXfek

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down these guides and report back. I've attached a picture below showing what it looks like.Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
Danny-

HI
Old compressor may have put debris in system and rear uses expansion valve which is pluged up not allowing freon to enter evaporator. see diagram

If valve blocked tube will ice up before valve.
Hope this helps
Thanks for donate

Good evening,

The low pressure switch and high pressure switches should have power with the key on.

The high pressure switch is a normally closed switch and the low side is a normally open switch unless there is greater than 20 pounds in the system.

I attached a wiring diagram for you to view.

Let us start with verifying power to the clutch relay. With the key on, there should be terminals with power. Pin 30 and 85.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Roy

Check to see if the harness between control panel and resistor is melted together. If you go to GM parts direct itwill cost about $125 or so to fix it with a new h arness and resistor. More at a dealer.

Car's air conditioner blowing warm air only and no cool air? Your A/C cooling problem could be caused by any of the following:

Your A/C system may have lost its charge of refrigerant, or the compressor may not be engaging when you turn on the A/C, or the blend air door inside the HVAC unit may be stuck in the HEAT position so no air goes through the A/C evaporator.

Start with the compressor. Does it engage when you turn on the A/C?

If so, the compressor is working and the A/C system probably contains enough refrigerant to make cold air, so the problem is inside the HVAC unit. Replace the motor that controls the blend air door (this is a difficult job and best left to a professional since it involves tearing apart the HVAC unit -- about an 8 to 10 hour job!).

If the compressor does not engage when you turn on the A/C, see if it will run by jumping the compressor clutch wire directly to the battery (use a fused jumper wire). If the compressor works when you jump it, and the A/C blows cold air, the system contains refrigerant and the fault is likely a bad A/C compressor clutch relay or a bad clutch cycling switch or pressure switch.

If the compressor does not engage when you jump it, the problem is a bad compressor clutch.

If the clutch engages but the compressor does not turn (the belt will start to slip and squeal), the compressor is loced up and you need a new compressor.

If the compressor clutch engages and turns the compressor, but the A/C still does not blow cold air, the system is probably low on refrigerant and needs to be recharged. If you Have an A/C gauge set, hook it up and see if the system has any pressure.

If it is out of refrigerant or is low, check for leaks, then have the A/C system vacuum purged to remove air. After the air is out, it can be recharged with the specified amount of refrigerant. It is important to get any air out as this will reduce cooling efficiency and may make the compressor noisy.

My advice to you if you know nothing about A/C service is to find a repair shop that specializes in A/C repairs and let them fix your cooling problem for you. Today's A/C systems with automatic climate control are very complex and reuire special tools and know-how to diagnose and repair.

HI, First I'd Check That You Have Enough Freon First. And I'd Look At The Pressures Low And High, If All That Was ok. I'd Check The Radiator Fan clutch. If All The Above Is Ok. Then I'd Put A Thermometer in The Dash vent, And check The Temperature. Let Say Vent Temp. At idle On A 90 Degree Day Is 48 Degrees. When you drive it down the road it goes to 40 Degrees, Which Is By The way Normal. You Stop And Let it Idle For a While. And it Goes Back up to 48 Degrees, The Reason for this Is One, The Radiator, and The condenser Are Very large, And Very close Together. When Your Not Moving It Just Too Much Heat For The Clutch Fan To Remove. To Test my Theory, The Condenser Get Hot To Begin With. Take Your Hose Turn On The Water Slow And Wet Down The Condenser Now Watch The Temperature Drop In The Car. As The condenser Cools Down It will Get Cooler Inside. What You Can Do To help Keep The Condenser Cooler is To Install A Pusher Fan . It's A Electric Fan That Will Pull The Heat Off The condenser. It Mounts To The Condenser. This Should Help On 90 Plus Degree Days, Also A Partially Clogged Radiator will Make The Car Run Hotter. That Is the problem With large Radiators

Hope This Helps You,
Good Luck

Edward S.

Idle is about right
1st step would do check AC system if low and need a charge (134A)

check coolant fan operation 2nd
and if all ok
you may have to install Auxiliary Electric Coolant fan

Try blowing out the cooling fins on both the radiator and the condenser, dirt dead bugs and grime coat the surface over the years and can lead to poor air flow thu the fins, I use a home made air tool made out of a blow gun and a piece of long brake/fuel line tubbing, flatten the end and cut a notch into the side so air will be directed at the fins, blow out at condenser first, then turn it to blow the radiator fins towards the engine. Move wand to clear entire radiator surface and condenser surface. This slight overheat can cause the fuel to boil in your injectors causing the sluggish performance.

Does the clutch click rapidly or on and of as it should when it cycles?

Have you checked the Freon / pressures? It sounds like it is low on Freon.