Given the unusual design of the toothed tone ring, check if a section got bent. Any time you have a voltage pulse that is induced mechanically, (with a magnet), speed is a variable in the strength of the induced voltage. That's why weak signals present symptoms at low speeds, as when coming to a stop. The air gap is another variable. That will change if the tone ring is bent or deformed.
Don't concern yourself with the number of slots in the tone ring. If this is the correct part for your vehicle, the number of slots will be right. If the number is wrong, the ABS Computer will detect that within less than a mile of normal driving. It will set a diagnostic fault code, turn on the yellow ABS light to tell you, and it will turn the system off. With the more common cast iron tone rings with 47 or 57 teeth, even a crack in the ring will be detected as one extra signal pulse per wheel revolution. That is enough to set a diagnostic fault code and turn the system off.
The wheel bearing supplier is likely also not the issue. Very often an aftermarket supplier buys their parts from the original manufacturer, then they rebox them with their own name. Large aftermarket suppliers like Moog invest a lot of time in research and development to address common failures of the original designs, so it's best to look other places first. It does make sense that this just started with replacement of the hub assembly, but that might be an unfair assumption.
The best place to start requires a scanner that can access the ABS Computer. First is to read and record the diagnostic fault codes, if there are any. If the only symptom is false activation, meaning the system engages when it isn't needed, use the scanner to view "live data" and watch the four-wheel speeds. If they all read the same speed at higher speeds, that is further proof the tone ring is correct for the vehicle. Watch for one that drops to "0" too soon, typically when road speed falls below around 15 mph. Since speed is a factor in signal strength, all ABS wheel speed sensors stop generating signal pulses, or their signal voltages get too low for the computer to see them, by as low as 15 mph. For that reason, all ABS Computers stop operating below from 9 to 15 mph. You will still see them show a road speed well below that, but the computer won't react then. The ABS function is not needed at speeds that low.
If you do see a wheel speed drop out to "0" long before the others do, you can switch parts from side to side to figure out which one is responsible. On your model it is relatively easy to switch the front wheel speed sensors. If you do that and the same wheel drops out too early, suspect the tone ring's air gap is too big.
You might find more useful information in these articles:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-abs-anti-lock-brakes-work
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/anti-lock-system-testing-and-repair-abs
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-warning-light-on-easy-repair-guide
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-wheel-speed-sensor-test
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-abs-wheel-speed-sensor
If there are any diagnostic fault codes stored, the people at many auto parts stores will read them for you for free, but often they use simple code readers that can only access Engine Computers. Some of the newer readers can now access Air Bag and ABS Computers. If you can't find anyone who can read them, you'll need to visit a mechanic with a full scanner. If it turns out there are fault codes, write the numbers down and post them in your reply. I can look up the definitions for you.
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Thursday, November 3rd, 2022 AT 12:01 PM
