Got ABS code C0226 when light comes on says brake booster short

Code C0226 - Left front wheel speed sensor missing. If the scan tool will read live speed data from the wheel sensors you might want to see if the left front goes away when you drive. There have been multiple issues with the wire harness on the front of the trucks, also issues of rust that jacks the sensor out away from the tone ring. Both can cause this code.
A bad connection can as well.

Here is a video on that code showing the repair.

https://youtu.be/ZgiPRG6jffc

You're welcome. Please let us know what you discover as the problem.

You are welcome. Not sure, perhaps it was just an odd bit of code in the tool. I've had more than a few of those over the years. Things like a cylinder 5 misfire code on a 4 cylinder, ABS code on a Jeep that didn't have ABS. One scan tool update flipped O2 sensor data so you would look at bank one but see bank two info. Always something to keep you wondering.
Please return anytime.

Low speed activation with no codes can be caused by the sensor location. GM has an issue with rust building up between the sensors and the hub, that makes the signal drop out as the vehicle does slow. I have also seen it with some aftermarket sensors if the plastic is thicker and hold the sensor too far away from the tone ring or if they included a shim, that it was installed but not needed, To see if you need the shim is easy, with the sensor out rotate the hub, then slowly insert the sensor with two pieces of masking tape on the tip. If it hits as it it rotating you will need the shim, if it doesn't then you don't need the shim. The shim is to mask the lack of quality control in the castings, some have thicker walls and don't need the shims, others were rebuilds from rusted parts and the shim replaces the areas that were rusted away.
If you can get a scan tool that shows the sensors speed you will likely see one of them that drops to zero when the speed drops below 5-10 mph. Or you can do it the harder way which is to remove and clean and reinstall each one and see if the problem goes away.

You don't want it to hit the ring but it needs to be very close, it is the tip of the sensor passing the teeth on the ring that creates the signal. The usual issue is that the sensor gets pushed away from the ring enough that the signal becomes very low. Then at the lower speeds the signal fades enough that the ABS module thinks that tire has stopped and is sliding, it then activates the ABS to let it roll again. With a scan tool you would see the numbers go down in speed and as they do, suddenly one will read 0 even if you are still moving.

I try to avoid anything real new for a personal vehicle. See to many headaches in all the electronics for them to last long after the warranty is up.
Scan tool wise, it depends on what you want to do with it. I have a few different ones because they are all finicky about what vehicles they work best with. My commonly grabbed tool for ease of use is a LAUNCH X431 Diagun IV, it's a full professional level scan tool in a compact package. They have the new Diagun V out now and it will likely be added to my fleet soon. For a DIYer it might be a bit much as it can do far more than most will ever need, however it is also priced to a level where the new tool with 2 years of updates is cheaper than just the yearly updates on other tools.

You are welcome.