A/C System lasted about a week and is now acting like it is low on charge?

Thank you, Ken. It held for about a week and I took it back over to my tech with his sniffer and found the Schrader valves were still leaking, go figure, cheap replacement valves. Ordered some OEM type valves and will replace next go around when it is not blowing cold again. In the meantime, he tapped on the pipes some and the valves finally closed up.
I just received my 2nd sniffer in the mail yesterday (1st one I had I lent to a different friend and his kids got a hold of it. LOL) Anyway, minor detection but it reads the same when checking inside the plastic caps. So, appears okay for now, and it's been about 3 weeks.
Thanks again

Hi Ken / Joe,

I'm ready to install a replacement compressor, and filter/dryer but am getting mixed information on the capacity of Pag 46 oil it should have in it. 2010 Sport Trac 4.0 2WD no rear A/C.
It ships with 3oz installed, but naturally will drain that and start with fresh oil.
I read anywhere from 7 to 9oz Pag Oil?

And I get mixed information of filling; pour it all in the compressor, or add some to compressor, then condenser, filter dryer, evap, etc. If one pours it all in the compressor and starts it up it may damage the compressor?

And I plan on putting in some oil and letting it sit on the clutch end for a few minutes to get some oil around the seal to help lube it before startup.

I'm sure it is okay to add the oil at the start, then pull my vacuum on the system before recharge, and oil lost during vacuum is minimal?

Hey Ken and Joe,

Well, I finally got the A/C compressor installed on the wife's 2010 Sport Trac yesterday.
What a hassle but done. Remove the front left tire, front plastic of the inner fender for better access
Remove the fan belt and unplug the A/C Clutch wires... That was fun in itself
3 Bolts hold the compressor on, but they are E7 or E8 Torx studs with retaining nuts
Once the nuts are off you can remove the Torx studs... No way it would slip off the studs... No room
Brake lines and such in the way. The bolt pattern is 2 studs in the front by the clutch and one on the lower
Of the compressor in the back, and the front 2 have alignment dowels for the AC house and block
The compressor I got from Rock Auto was a fit for the lines, but not the wiring connection.
So cut that off and use some Red Slip on Wire terminals for that... Solder the wires up and some shrink tubing
The biggest hassle for one person doing it... Is getting the new one in place and starting a stud back into the block... Having another hand would have made the job easier.
Overall, about 6 over all with pulling a vacuum for a good 45 minutes and letting it set for another 30 minutes checking for leaks.
Funny thing was checking the oil in the old compressor so I would add the same amount to the new one.
I had the old one on the bench and using a 10mm socket turn the clutch unit to cycle the compressor... Barely a drop of Pag Oil came out of it. Funny... And even the new compressor... Said it ships with 3 ounces... Nearly a drop out of it as well. The system calls for 8 ounces total, so I poured in about 5 to 6 ounces in the compressor and being a little hesitant... Didn’t want to over fill it and cause damage... But cycled it and then let it stand upright on the clutch for a few minutes to get oil on and around the seal... Heard that was good idea...
Put the belt back on and charged it up. I have a 30-pound bottle of 134A that I got for 150.00... When Freon is selling for 25 to 30 for a 1lb can... The bottle from the shop at 5.00 a pound made a lot of sense.
Anyway, day 2 and it still is blowing cold... Yeah...
I’d sure like to know where all the oil went. The old compressor showed no major signs of a leak from the clutch area, but the hoses below had oil traces on them.
Sorry, no pictures or video available for this one. Hard enough getting it installed. LOL
Later guys and thanks for the super support you folks provide.
Terry