Hi and thanks. If you have automatic temperature control, it isn't a basic resister. However, a module. I looked parts up and see your concern. However, if you have manual temperature control, the part is fifteen dollars.
As far as repair, they are not repairable.
Let me know if you have other questions. Also, here are the directions for replacement. At least it's an easy one.
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Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable.
2. Rear engine sight shield. Refer to Engine Cover Replacement See: Engine > Procedures.
3. Center bolt and positive booster cable from multi-use relay and fuse bracket.
4. Underhood fuse blocks and relays from bracket and position aside.
5. Nuts attaching multi-use relay and fuse bracket to front of dash, and bracket from vehicle.
6. CPA and connector from blower resistor assembly.
7. Screws attaching blower resistor assembly to heater and A/C module assembly.
8. Blower resistor assembly from vehicle.
Install or Connect
1. Screws attaching blower resistor assembly to heater and A/C module assembly after positioning in vehicle.
Tighten
Screws to 1.4 N.M (12 lb. In.).
2. Connector to blower resistor assembly and CAP.
3. Nuts attaching multi-use relay and fuse bracket to front of dash after positioning on vehicle.
Tighten
Nuts to 3.8 N.M (34 lb. In.).
4. Position fuse blocks and relays to bracket and snap m.
5. Center bolt attaching positive booster cable to multi-use relay and fuse bracket after positioning cable.
Tighten
Bolt to 10 N.M (89 lb. In.).
6. Rear engine sight shield. Refer to Engine Cover Replacement See: Engine > Procedures.
7. Negative battery cable.
Tighten
Negative battery cable to 15 N.M (11 lb. Ft.).
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Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.
Joe
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Sunday, December 30th, 2018 AT 5:14 PM
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