Will not stay running without pressing on gas pedal

Hi,

The first thing I would do is simply check for engine vacuum leaks. That can cause an engine to stall. Here is a link that shows how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

If none are found, then suspect it is related to the idle air control valve (IAC). The IAC is responsible for maintaining engine idle speed. It can fail or where it enters the intake manifold can be plugged.

Here are two links. The first explains how to service one. The second explains in general how one is replaced.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-idle-speed-control-motor-iac

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When you remove it, have a helper cycle the ignition switch from off to on and back off. You should see movement If there is, check to make sure there isn't a carbon build-up when it enters the manifold. If the IAC doesn't respond, chances are it needs to be replaced.

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Here are the directions for replacement. The attached pic correlates with the directions.

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1995 Ford Truck Explorer 4WD V6-245 4.0L
Removal and Replacement
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic Service and Repair Removal and Replacement
REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT
Idle Air Control Valve
imageOpen In New TabZoom/Print

REMOVAL

1. Disconnect the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connector from the fuel charging wiring.

2. Remove the two IAC valve retaining bolts.

3. Remove the IAC valve and IAC gasket.

NOTE: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage IAC valve, throttle body gasket surfaces or drop material into throttle body.

INSTALLATION

1. Make sure that both throttle body and valve gasket surfaces are clean.

2. Install IAC gasket on throttle body surface and mount IAC valve, securing it with two retaining screws. Tighten to 9-11 Nm (80-97 in lb).

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Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

Here are the directions for retrieving diagnostic trouble codes. Take a look through the link and let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

Do me a favor. Check fuse 11 in the interior fuse panel. See pic 1 Next, check pin 3 for power and pin 1 for continuity to ground.

Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Now, I attached a third pic below which contradicts what the wiring schematic indicates. The schematic (pic 1) indicates fuse 11. The fuse box layout indicates fuse 5. Ugh!!! Do me a favor, check both. If there is no power to fuse 5, check maxi-fuse 2 (pic 4) under hood power distribution box.

In addition to checking the fuse, make sure there is power in and out. Here is a link you may find helpful.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

I have a feeling the IAC is the cause. When you removed it, are you sure the pintel moved when the key was switched on and off and there was no carbon build up in the TB where it mounts?

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I suspect the IAC is the issue. If it isn't allowing air to flow past it at idle, the engine gets no air to run.

Let me know.
Joe

Hi,

It sounds like you have the same luck as I do. LOL Take care and let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,
Joe

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