4WD to 2WD - What is this noise?

ROMERO CLEVELAND

MEMBER
2003 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
2.7L
V6
4WD
AUTOMATIC
190,510 MILES

Hi all, thanks in advance for your help. I'm in no way a car guy, and I bought the vehicle listed above that was missing a drive shaft (didn't know) from an auction. I drive it for a day then the rear sized up, so I had mechanic #1 replace the rear end. I drive it for another day, and it started to shift out of gear, so mechanic #2 came and diagnosed the problem as the missing front drive shaft. That's what I thought the problem was for the past 3 months, while it sat in my driveway and I tried to find drive shafts for it. Three to be exact, the last one I just returned today. Last night when trying to attach yet another ill-fitting part, I googled some things and saw threads about 4WD to 2WD, which is the just the vehicle without the front shaft. I almost slapped myself, the vehicle drove fine without the front shaft before I even knew it wasn't there, so that wasn't the problem. A few more google searches alerted me to my idiot mistake of not checking the fluids. The ATF and engine oil were low, so I added some and the noise quieted, but it still won't shift. Please help me figure this out, I feel I'm close to repairing this myself. I read a translation flush might be needed, also possibly a gasket replacement. Included are YouTube and Google Drive video links of the problem, as well as OBDII screenshots that really don't tell me much of anything. I know one of you guys will have the answer I'm looking for! Btw, there are no diagnostic trouble codes, and no fault codes from the OBDII.

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Thursday, October 29th, 2020 AT 1:21 PM

3 Replies

ASEMASTER6371

MECHANIC
52,797 POSTS

Good afternoon,

The noise going into park is from the transfer case. Without the front driveshaft, the output to the front driveshaft is still spinning. That is the noise you hear.

Once you get the front shafts installed, that noise will go away.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-cv-axle

Roy

COMPONENTS

REMOVAL
1. Remove the aluminum wheel cover using a flat-blade screwdriver.
2. Raise the vehicle and remove the wheel.

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3. Remove the split pin and castle nut.
4. Drain the transaxle oil.
5. Detach the wheel speed sensor cable from the bracket (for vehicles equipped with ABS).

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6. Detach the brake hose cable from the bracket.

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7. Remove two flange bolts and detach the knuckle from the strut.

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8. Separate the driveshaft from the axle hub by tapping it lightly with a plastic hammer.

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9. Drive off the driveshaft from the transaxle or transfer inner shaft using a hammer and brass bar.

CAUTION:
1. Use a pry bar not to damage the joint.
2. If you pull the driveshaft by excessive force, the components inside the joint kit can be displaced which might cause the boot to be torn and the bearing to be damaged.
3. Plug the transaxle case opening with an oil seal cap in order to avoid contamination.
4. Support the driveshaft properly.
5. Replace the retainer ring each time the driveshaft is removed from the transaxle case.

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6. While loosening the driveshaft nut, do not allow vehicle weight to be concentrated on the wheel bearing. If the vehicle moves, hold the wheel bearing using the special tool (09517-21500).

INSPECTION
1. Check the driveshaft boots for damage and deterioration.
2. Check the splines for wear and damage.
3. Check the ball joints for wear and operating condition.

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4. Check the dynamic damper for damage and deterioration

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