2A13 DMTL Code fuel pump

Tiny
NASER NASER
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 BMW 328
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 75,000 MILES
Weird to happen at 75,000 but everything is possible. Common on e99s but I never had to fix one before. Where would I start to make sure it is the fuel pump before buying one?
Friday, May 22nd, 2020 AT 5:15 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Naser,

Can you provide the P code for this? The OEM 2A13 is vague and can point in three different directions. I need to know if it is a P2400, P2401, or a P2402. One is indicating an evap leak the other two are specific to low or high voltage to the pump.

Let me know.
Joe
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Friday, May 22nd, 2020 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
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Will check and let you know. Thanks
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Friday, May 22nd, 2020 AT 8:22 PM
Tiny
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P2402 pending as I deleted the code yesterday to see how fast it comes back.
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 7:20 AM
Tiny
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Here is what I found for diagnostics:

2011 BMW 328i Sedan (E90) L6-3.0L (N51)
DME
Vehicle ALL Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) Testing and Inspection P Code Charts P2402 DME
DME
2A13 - P2402

Information saved in
DME

Fault code
2A13 - P2402

Fault text
DMTL leak diagnosis pump, activation

Fault description
Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Control
Circuit High

Condition for fault identification
Test condition:
Monitoring of control activation
when pump is triggered
Terminal condition: Terminal 15 ON
Voltage condition:
Voltage in onboard electrical system > 10 V

Condition for fault memory entry
0.5 sec.

Action in service
1Check wiring
Repair if defective
If wiring is OK proceed
to check component

Fault effect and breakdown warning

Driver information
Warning light:
MIL ON

Service instruction
none
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Saturday, May 23rd, 2020 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
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Am lost. So all it's asking me to do is check the wires and then activate the pump to see if it works? And by the way I have the N52 not the N51 not sure if it makes any difference.
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Sunday, May 24th, 2020 AT 5:21 AM
Tiny
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Doesn't really tell me how to check the pump.
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Sunday, May 24th, 2020 AT 11:43 AM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

They expect the pump operation to be tested when you actuate it. However, the pump may work but still be drawing too much amperage. In most cases, either the pump has an internal fault or there is a wiring issue, a short to power.

If there is no evidence of wiring damage, corrosion, or damage at the connector, the only other thing you can do is first confirm that it is drawing greater than 10v. If it is, then check resistance at the pump motor, and for some reason, I don't have the resistance specs. But, if there are no wiring issues causing a high voltage draw, then in most cases, the pump itself is bad.

I hope that makes sense. Also, I checked N52 and it's the same. Somewhere you have a short to power drawing too much voltage/terminal 15. If there are no wiring issues, I would replace the pump.

Let me know if this helps. Also, I tried to find resistance for you, but neither manual has it.

Joe
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Sunday, May 24th, 2020 AT 8:24 PM

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