TPS problem or cpu problem

What engine and trans? How was SeaFoam introduced? What terminals on TPS have 5volt refference?

5 volts only on terminal 2 middle top row

Allow me to interject a couple of notes. Chrysler has never used a mass air flow sensor. What you might have is a throttle-by-wire system and you're disconnecting the throttle body.

Second, the voltage readings are irrelevant when you measure them with the plug disconnected. That creates an open circuit. The position sensing part of the circuit has mechanical stops that prevent the signal voltage from going beyond, (approximately), 0.5 to 4.5 volts. This type of circuit will always have a "pull-up" resistor or a "pull-down" resistor in the computer to force the voltage to go to an unacceptable level when there's an open circuit. That's one of the ways it knows to set a diagnostic fault code. Without those resistors, when you unplug a sensor it is possible for that signal voltage to "float" to some random value from being connected to all the other circuitry, and if that random value is between 0.5 and 4.5 volts, the computer will accept it and try to run on it. You need to carefully back-probe the terminals through the rubber seal and take the voltage readings with that plug connected.

When you unplug the throttle position sensor, the signal voltage is going to go to 5.0 volts. That's where you're getting the fault code from. Most scanners read voltage, not percent, but that's irrelevant. Code 113 is related to the intake air temperature sensor unless they have changed with the new "CAN Buss" system.

P0113 †Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input

High voltage again means that sensor was disconnected.

P0123 †Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input

That is also caused by unplugging the connector while the ignition switch is on.

How are you determining the oxygen sensors are quitting? Two of them yet. In the absence of fault codes, you would need a scanner to view live data to see what they are reporting. Which warning lights were turning on? If you have multiple lights, that suggests low system voltage from a charging system problem. Of course it could be from disconnecting things too while the ignition switch is on.

Based on your observations that the problem started shortly after replacing the spark plugs, I'd start there by double-checking the gap, heat range, and proper seating of the plug wires. Some people say certain brands of spark plugs don't hold up in certain engines. I've read a lot of solutions that involved fancy plugs like split-fire types and things like that. If the engine didn't come with them, they seem to cause some problems. I've had plug wires on my cars in the past that I didn't seat properly and they arced and burned away until a misfire resulted.

"The van is not drive by wire, It has a sending unit on the gas pedal and no cable wire to the throttle body."

That's a contradiction. If there's no cable, then you do have throttle-by-wire. That is the only system that uses a position sensor on the gas pedal.

I've never worked on one of those but I have read a lot of horror stories on them, particularly Volkswagen problems. I know enough about them that I don't want to get involved due to the high potential for lawsuits. I suspect the lightning bolt warning light is related to this system, and because of the seriousness of its reliability, you might not be able to erase codes related to it. That might require a regular scanner or the dealer's equipment, but based on how the events transpired according to your original post, I suspect there is a defect and that's why the fault codes keep coming back.

Logic dictates those codes are not related to rough running because throttle problems affect engine speed, not single cylinder misfires. The biggest clue you have, if you're seeing on your laptop what the Engine Computer is seeing is that 100 percent throttle position. Try watching that value while wiggling on the connector. If you see it change, the most common cause would be a stretched terminal in the connector. You can usually remove a plastic locking wedge, then lift a retaining finger to pull a terminal out to squeeze it tighter. Next, if you know from a wiring diagram which terminal is the signal wire, you can back-probe the connector to measure the voltage right there. If it agrees with the value shown on your laptop, either the sensor is defective or its ground wire or terminal is open. If you find a different voltage than shown on the laptop, there is either a break in that wire or a glitch with your software. There could also be a stretched terminal in the computer's connector but that would be very uncommon.

As for that sensor in the intake tube, that is where they used to put the intake air temperature sensor. (It had two wires). Unplugging that would have set that 113 code. Some manufacturers put that sensor right inside the throttle body, and I was wondering if that's why you have six wires there. For the tiny bit I know about the throttle-by-wire throttle bodies, those motors that run the throttle blade are real strong and use really large gauge wires to handle the high current, so I'm guessing you have a second connector to it with bigger wires. That's what left me wondering why there were six wires in the connector in your photos.

Boy, if that's true about VW and Chrysler being the same I'm going to be very depressed. VW is one of the top three manufacturers in the world for being customer-unfriendly as far as the tricks they design into their products to cost owners money after the sale. Chrysler is in the top three of customer-friendly manufacturers.

Volkswagens are well-known for computers locking up from doing the things you're doing on your van. Simply moving the throttle blade by hand under the hood causes a mismatch between the throttle position sensors on the pedal and on the throttle body, and that will do it. On some models the engine will not start. If it does, it won't increase speed above idle no matter what you do with the gas pedal, and it will not come out of park. I've heard a lot of stories about people having to drag those cars skidding off the hoist, onto a flatbed truck for a REAL expensive trip to the dealer to have multiple computers unlocked and to have "minimum throttle" relearned. Simply disconnecting the battery to replace it can result in the same disaster. A lot of do-it-yourselfers are getting caught with the "got'chas" they have designed in.

I have a friend who buys and rebuilds smashed Chrysler products and haven't heard any of these stories from him yet. To us, "German engineering" is nothing to be proud of. It's just different, and sometimes bizarre.

That's not to say you can't have German parts on your van. In particular, Chrysler buys their fuel injectors from Bosch in flow-matched sets and they have WAY fewer problems than almost any other manufacturer. One of my Grand Caravans has a Bosch starter and alternator too, but that's as close as they come to German engineering.

Seems to me I did hear something once about another manufacturer buying Caravans and putting their name on them but I didn't pay much attention. Maybe that's what VW is doing.

Hmm. Just got a call from a former student who works for a Chrysler dealer, and he said you're right; since 2008 VW has been buying Caravans. They use the same scanner for diagnostics too.

He provided a lot of information. First of all, be sure to use Champion spark plugs. Many other brands can cause running problems, especially Autolite plugs. Those are guaranteed to cause trouble.

His next comment was you most likely don't have a problem with the throttle body assembly. They have been very trouble-free, but he hasn't found an aftermarket scanner that can erase those codes. The codes were caused by disconnecting the plug, (and that is indeed the only plug on it), and turning on the ignition switch. Unlike the VW-built vehicles, there will be no heartbreaking problems after disconnecting that plug. Just reconnect it and the system will work normally. What you WILL need to do though is have the dealer erase the codes with their scanner. He did say no one likes working on the throttle-by-wire systems on any brand of car because they know sooner or later there's going to be lawsuits and anyone who touched it might become involved. The only problem he has seen so far on the Chryslers is a defective brake switch that causes the cruise control to accelerate to try to maintain speed after you tap the brake pedal.

He also mentioned the intake air temperature sensor doesn't like Sea Foam, but it is in the intake tube and should be far enough away so hopefully it wasn't affected. Lets hope the code set because you disconnected it. If that one comes back, replace that sensor. That one should be pretty inexpensive.