Wheel speed sensor?

Tiny
ASVENTU
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 129,885 MILES
129885 miles. DTC C0055. Where is the location of the rear wheel speed sensor? Engine Vortec 5.3L V8 4x4. Gas. VIN 1GCEK14J57Z576861. Because I cant find the rear wheel speed sensor, I opt to replace the vehicle speed sensor and scanned it again. But it displays the same DTC C0055.
Wednesday, October 10th, 2012 AT 8:47 AM

17 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Refer to diagram. If you encounter any abnormal grinding noises, the cause could be from the diffrential rather than the wheel speed sensors.
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Wednesday, October 10th, 2012 AT 9:03 AM
Tiny
ASVENTU
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Sir, the silverado that we have here, the rear brakes are Drum brakes not rotor disk brakes. Only the front are rotor disk brakes. The diagram that you sent to me is rotor disk brake. One more thing is that when I run the car, it would take almost 100 meters before the speedometer work and the transmission start to shift as well.I replaced the vehicle speed sensor but still the same problem.
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Thursday, October 11th, 2012 AT 4:21 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
It sounds like the ABS module is going out here is a video to help you change it out.

https://youtu.be/lUotkKXG9dY

Disk or drum they should be similar in location. Check the rear of brake at backing plate to see if you can find the sensors.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers
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Thursday, October 11th, 2012 AT 5:33 PM
Tiny
DENTALFITCHIC
  • MEMBER
  • 0 POST
Thank for the video, got my car fixed cost me $160.00 for the module all set :) I love this site.
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Tuesday, September 11th, 2018 AT 12:52 PM
Tiny
DERBYKING1985
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 188,000 MILES
Needing to know location of the rear wheel speed sensor and where it is at on the truck.
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

In the diagrams down below I have included a diagram showing the locations of the Wheel Speed Sensors for your vehicle. They are located on the front wheels and not on the rear wheels as they will be traveling as fast as the rear wheels, so there is no need for them on the rear wheels. I hope this helps.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KRISTY CLARK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2003 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 0.5L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
Had narrowed an issue down to bad carrier bearing, before I got a chance to fix it the ABS light and warning light came on right before the steering became very difficult. Found that problem and replaced the caliper, hub assembly and turned the rotor on passenger side. Now the ABS lights are off but am experiencing a vibration at the brake pedal but only when almost coming to a complete stop. Any ideas of why the vibration?
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,864 POSTS
This is a very common problem that only applies to GM trucks. It's caused by rust build-up under one of the front ABS wheel speed sensors.

To generate a signal voltage, you need three things; a coil of wire, a magnet, and most importantly, movement between them. In this case, the wheel speed sensor is a coil of wire wrapped around a magnet, then the movement is actually the magnet's magnetic field being disturbed by the passing teeth on the tone ring. GM puts that tone ring inside their wheel bearing assemblies, but the sensor sits outside where water can get under its mounting pad, causing rust to form and build up. As it does, it pushes the sensor away from the tone ring.

These sensors develop real wimpy signals to start with, then they become even weaker when the air gap increases. Next, since movement is a factor in signal strength, the signals become even weaker as wheel speed slows down. By the time you get down to around 10 mph, the signal becomes too weak to be analyzed by the computer. It thinks that wheel has locked up, so it activates the various valves to try to get that wheel rotating again. That's called "false activation". It's the operation of those valves you're feeling.

The fix is usually to remove the sensor to clean off any rust under it. Many people replace the entire wheel bearing assembly, but most of the time that is not necessary. The red arrow is pointing to the area where the rust forms.
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KRISTY CLARK
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Will this continue to cause damage if it is driven before cleaning the sensor?
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,864 POSTS
To the truck? No. To your nerves? Maybe. This is more of an irritation. The ABS system will still do its job in an emergency.
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREENJEANS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2002 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 78,000 MILES
I have recently been to a garage for the problem. Their computer showed the driverside front wheel bearing sensor assembly needed replacing. Since I replaced it, I still have the problem of the brakes grinding, and a hard braking feeling but ONLY when coming to a stop or slow traffic, and always under 10 mph. Brakes are fine otherwise. All pads and rotors are like new. Any suggestions?
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
QUAGMIRE86
  • MECHANIC
  • 98 POSTS
Check the ABS sensor lead (wire with magnetic pick-up unit) that goes into the top of your wheel bearing. (The toothed ring for the ABS is inside the wheel bearing). If the sensor is not reading the ring, it will tell the ABS unit that a wheel is slipping (when it is not), causing the ABS to activate just before you come to a stop. I had the same issue with my 2000, the wheel bearing was fine, there just was an issue where the bearing housing where the ABS sensor bolted to it had rust underneath the sensor where it bolts to the bearing housing. Just a mm of rust threw the sensor out of range making the ABS system think that the wheel was locking up. (Common problem where the city uses salt on roads). I thought I had to replace a wheel bearing ($$$$$) but just carefully pulled the sensor out, cleaned the corrosion off the housing and re-inserted the sensor. No more problems.
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREENJEANS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you for your advice
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WWEBER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
2001 Chevy Silverado V8 Four Wheel Drive Automatic

At times when I turn corners the locking differental tries to hook up on dry pavement. What damage could happen and where are the sensors located.
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
IS it a crow hop kind of feel?
Are you in 4wd at that time?

IF the brakes are false abs-ing, then clean thecorrosion build up under the front wheel speed sensors, clean the mounting pad and coat sensors with silicone grease.

IS the abs light coming on?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_sil1_1.jpg



The sensor goes into the hub. Replacement ones come with the sensor becasue they don't come out in 1 piece too often.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_sil2_2.jpg

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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WWEBER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
No Its not ABS related.I fixed that problem 2 years ago. No Its not in 4-wheel drive. Its only the back axle that makes a klunking sound and it tries to engage the locking differental. No the ABS light does not come on.
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
Sorry, went down the wrong path on that.

Big aluminum driveshaft? They resonate noise pretty good.

Is the thumping /clunking noise in the rear axle while driving down the road, more noticeable it more on the one to two upshift? IF so, try greasing the splines on the end of the rear driveshaft that fits into the transfer case.

IF this is not the case either, then next I would mark the tires at the bottom with a crayon. Drive it for 10 wheel rotations. All of the marks should stilll be at the bottom. IF not then there is a circumference problem that may have caused damage.

IF I'm still in left field on this, post a fresh new question, so it flags as not being answered.
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Tuesday, February 23rd, 2021 AT 9:07 AM (Merged)

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