2006 Dodge Stratus Prefomance

Tiny
LUMPY 10
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 DODGE STRATUS
  • 2.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 187,324 MILES
Excel Issues. When this vehicle has remained idle over night, and when it is cranked up for use the next day, the very first it performs perfect, when excel it goes right into passing gear and begins to speed up. Back after that first time when you try to speed it up it will only start back firing and jerking and snatching. Any idea of cause?
Saturday, January 10th, 2015 AT 12:18 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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I don't know what "snatching" means, but for the other symptoms, the place to start is by reading and recording any diagnostic fault codes. You can do that yourself on Chrysler products by turning the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds, without cranking the engine. Leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers show up in the odometer display.

If there are no fault codes, you'll need a scanner to view live data to get an idea of what is going on.
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Saturday, January 10th, 2015 AT 12:30 PM
Tiny
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Thanks For This, But maybe I should state this more clearly. This car will run just fine as it should as long as I do not accelerate to fast, for if I do I will bog down, but will try to accelerate it's self but just seems that it can't and it makes a sudden jerk win it tries too. The car also runs just fine as long I do not try to accelerate it past 50-55 mph, but if I try an force it past this speed it will also bog down then, but as soon as I let up on the accelerator so that I can return to the speed of 50-55 mph it then again will again return to running as it should. So you see as long as I do not accelerate to fast are exceed 50-55 mph I never have this problem. You must understand that their comes time that we need to accelerate quickly and also need at times to be able to past beyond 50-55 mph. If you could kindly provide me the info I need to be able to correct this I would be beholding to you. Thanks! Steven Monroe.
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Saturday, January 10th, 2015 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
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The first thing, again, is to read the diagnostic fault codes. If there are none, you might suspect the fuel supply system. A good suspect is the pickup screen on the end of the fuel pump's pickup tube. You may be able to get a clue by connecting a fuel pressure gauge and hooking it under a wiper blade so you can watch it while you're driving. The pressure might go up and down a little, but if you see it drop a lot when the problem occurs, suspect that screen. I've had to replace it twice in my '88 Grand Caravan but my symptoms were different because my fuel supply system is designed differently than yours.

Many auto parts stores rent or borrow tools and they'll have the fuel pressure gauge.

I'm racing a dying laptop battery. I'll be back in the next day or two to see how you're doing.
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Saturday, January 10th, 2015 AT 3:59 PM
Tiny
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I forgot to mention a possibility. I just remembered that had never happen before I used the cruise control, and 50-55 mph was the very exact speed I had set on. Do you think this just might be a possibility?
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Sunday, January 11th, 2015 AT 8:58 AM
Tiny
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The cruise control just takes the place of your foot on the accelerator pedal but there is a lot of electronics involved, so it's unlikely there is any relationship with that system.
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Monday, January 12th, 2015 AT 11:36 PM
Tiny
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I would just have to believe that these electronic speed controls have very much to with the performance of this vehicle. I state this to be very true, since when tried to engage the electronic coast control it shut down the engine just as if I had switched it off myself, and regardless to how many times I tried to crank it, it just would not crank. So I to ask you another question. Where is the plugin located under the hood that I need to unplug so I disable this complete electronic system. As always thanks for your help.
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Tuesday, January 13th, 2015 AT 6:05 AM
Tiny
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It sounds like you're describing the "throttle-by-wire" system. Those are very dangerous to work with. You remember all the trouble Toyota had a couple of years ago. With those systems, a simple, reliable, two-ounce throttle cable has been replaced with five pounds of computers, sensors, and a motor-actuated throttle assembly. When you press the accelerator pedal, you are not opening the throttle. You are sending a signal to a computer, the computer sends a voltage to the throttle motor, and the motor opens the throttle to raise engine speed. When you use the cruise control, it also causes the same computer to run the throttle motor. There is no difference in how the throttle reacts.

It IS possible the computer is doing something differently based on whether the request comes from the accelerator pedal or the cruise control switches, but that is not a cruise control issue. It is a computer issue that would have to be diagnosed.

There is nothing you can disconnect to solve a problem or concern. There are so many safeguards built into these systems because they are so dangerous. A car is already a very bad environment for computers to live in due to rain, snow, salt, vibration, and heat. All of these things will result in a lot of electrical problems, so when working with safety-related systems, there are a lot of things built in to protect you from a runaway car. If you disconnect anything, or if a wire corrodes through, etc, the system will shut down and all the engine will do is idle. Even when problems are repaired, some systems won't start working again until diagnostic fault codes are erased and / or the system is reset by the dealer. That requirement is often included so the dealer can verify the system is working properly.
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Tuesday, January 13th, 2015 AT 5:06 PM
Tiny
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Thank you, but after thought of this I have decided would just cost me to much dough to have this repaired, so since I am making payments on it I think better for just go ahead an let it be repoed.
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Wednesday, January 14th, 2015 AT 9:31 AM

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