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Multiple issues

Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 TOYOTA TUNDRA
  • 4.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Stuck in limp mode, all lights on instrument cluster on 4x4 and 4x4 low light on no power to heater fan, windows, cig power port or aux port, no power to obd2 port. Checked all the fuses under dash and engine compartment numerous times I checked all the grounds as well. I can't afford this truck to be down as it is my service truck. This truck is equipped with remote start. Power door looks don't work either along with interior lights. Haven't bothered checking headlights I assume those done work either. Anyone have this happen or Any suggestions please. I'm ready to dump k1 on the interior and drop a match. I love this truck and been very dependable. Help!
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Monday, July 8th, 2019 AT 7:30 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

I was going to start digging through schematics, but the first thing it asks is if it is a standard access cab or a double cab. Let me know that. Also, did this happen all at once? I need you to check something for me. The DLC connector you mentioned isn't working. Use a test light with a known good ground and check if there is power to pin 16. If there is power, then I need you to check if there is continuity between pin 5 and ground.

Let me know. Lets see if we can get the DLC to work. It should help.

Take care,

Joe.
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Monday, July 8th, 2019 AT 8:27 PM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
Double cab. I apologise for the delayed response. I work 18 hrs day and working out of minivan right now can't keep all my tools equipment needed with me.
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Monday, July 8th, 2019 AT 8:56 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Welcome back:

No problem. Actually, it's nearly 1:30 am here and I'm about ready to shut down. Like you, very long days.

Okay, that helps, but I need to know if you can check the Data link connector (DLC) for power and ground.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, July 8th, 2019 AT 10:24 PM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
There no power going to it. First thing I checked when my reader wouldn't link up. I've also tried a Mac and a Snap On also neither will link up and they worked on it before I had this issue with the limp mode.
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Monday, July 8th, 2019 AT 10:53 PM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
And to finish answering question yes this happened all at same time. Always had engine light on. I need front right wheel speed sensor. That was last code I pulled about month ago. Went into limp mode about week ago and all the electrical problem started same time. Someone said it may have set security mode. Doesn't make any sense. Drives but in limp mode and all the lights on and no power going to windows locks power outlets radio fan for heater or A/C.
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 12:06 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Welcome back:

Okay, if there is no power to the DLC pin 16, did you check the obd fuse? Also, did you confirm ground to the DLC? The power to the dlc comes from the junction box under the dash and many of the things you mentioned not working are fused there too.

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
Yes. I've pulled every fuse in truck as stated in first question explaining the problem. No power going to any of the accessories no power going to obd2 connector. No blown fuses. Checked each fuse with meter. I'm at a loss unless it's something to do with the ignition switch or the remote start. I just don't get it. I did install new battery. As my old one wouldn't hold a charge after sitting for 3 or 4 days that's all that's been done. Before you ask, no I didn't hit positive to negative or anything like that. I've been working on vehicles for 40 years I'm lost on this one.
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
There's a fuse for obd2 connector on this truck, it's good. The fuse for windows good, fuse for locks good, fuse for aux power all good.
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
I've got at least 40 hours into trying to figure this out before posting question. I've done all the obvious.
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 8:05 PM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
Is there a security mode as a friend suggested? That this may have gone into changing battery out. I've swapped batteries before no problem. I've used booster pack right before this happened also. No never positive to negative, I'm positive.
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 8:07 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Changing the battery shouldn't have caused this, and I'm not familiar with a security mode. If there is no power to the fuses, then the last thing I can think of is the fusible link went bad that powers several components in the junction box. The power loss has to be before the box because the OBD fuse should have power all the time.

Bear with me. Not being there is difficult.

Actually, I meant to say power from the fusible link block. See picture 2.
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 10:08 PM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
The aux port and door locks should also have power all the time but none now.
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2019 AT 4:16 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Welcome back:

The only thing we can do is keep working backwards to see where power is lost. I looked over the power distribution schematics and what I nightmare. LOL First, I attached a picture right from the battery. You need to confirm there is power to the fuse / relay box under the hood. See if there is power at the main 40amp fuse. You will see wires and fuses coming off that circuit. They run to different locations on different pages of the schematic. However, if there is no power at that point, everything else you mentioned won't work.

Next, see pictures 2 and 3. Picture 2 shows power goes from the power main relay to the components which cover power locks, power outlets and so on.

Power goes everywhere but all starts at the same place. Normally I would say work backwards, but because there are so many things that can cause change, start at the battery and work forward.

I know you have done all the basics, but we need to start at the beginning to see where and how power is being lost. Although you checked most everything, something had to have been missed.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2019 AT 9:12 PM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
Do you think it can have something to do with the remote start or the ignition switch? I have not been able to make it in to the shop and probably won't make it there until Friday night. I'll update you as soon as I get a chance.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 5:12 AM
Tiny
DENNISBON
  • MEMBER
  • 15 POSTS
Oh, before I forget a mechanic, said the air injector pump would cause these symptoms. Does that sound possible to you?
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 5:13 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,724 POSTS
Welcome back:

I can't see how the switch would cause it. Also, the air injection is on its own fuse. See the pics attached. You can check to see if it is getting power, but I have to be honest, in and of itself, it has nothing to do with the DLC, power locks, and so on. The air injector is part of the emissions system. At some point, a power supply which is tied into many things has failed. That is my best theory at this point.

Let me know what you find.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 7:17 PM

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