No crank, no start, dashes on mileage, no comms with Forscan?

Tiny
STEPHEN LEWIN
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 FORD TRANSIT
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 110,000 MILES
Power at PCM power relay, power to switch side but not at the coil side fuel relay in engine fuse box, no blown fuses, swap around relays but not response. Mileage resets when battery disconnected but lose mileage when key turn to start position.

2005 Ford connect
Monday, February 27th, 2023 AT 3:24 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,692 POSTS
Hello, there is limited-service info, but it looks like power for the control side of Fuel pump relay comes through the Fuel pump Diode in the battery junction box, which should be the same location as the fuel pump relay. The diode is in a fuse type location, it has an arrow on it with a line in front of the arrow. When you pull the diode out, it should read resistance in one direction and not the other. If it reads OL on the meter meaning open circuit, then the diode has burned out and needs to be replaced. I'll post a picture of a Diode for you.
This is a basic diode put in the circuit to protect the power source from any high fly back voltage from the relay when it opens and shuts off.
Hopefully this diagram has the correct wire colors, it had to come from a different location. All Data didn't seem to have any Ford Transits listed.
You should also have power on one side of the Diode, with the key On. I'll see if I can find better diagrams to go by, I would also check the resistance of the Fuel pump relay coil and verify it's not shorted out. Compare it to the PCM relay.
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Monday, February 27th, 2023 AT 9:57 AM
Tiny
STEPHEN LEWIN
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  • 4 POSTS
Thanks, Al514 for the wiring diagram etc. I will check the diode in the morning and give some feedback after.
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Monday, February 27th, 2023 AT 1:16 PM
Tiny
AL514
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I can try to locate some other diagrams; we just don't have that van listed on all data in the US. I'll try to see what feeds power to that Diode, it's obviously an ignition feed, and Ford always puts their fly back diodes in series with their main relays. Most other manufacturers have them or a resistor built into the relay to prevent the high voltage spike that occurs when the relay is turned off. But if the relay control coil shorted it would take that diode out pretty fast, I actually had a Ford fuel pump relay right here and it read 74 ohms across the 2 control terminals, so 12-volts / 74 gives about 162ma of current flow. So, compare the relay in question with the PCM relay and see what they read just to be sure. You don't want to burn out an ECM driver, let us know what you find. And with the diode out on the bench it should read a resistance in one direction but not the other. So, it will only allow current flow in one direction.

Do you have power at pin 16 of the data link connector? And ground on pins 4 and 5?
Trying to find information on this van is tough, I found some info stating that the first generation Transit Connect's body and chassis platform are similar to the North American Ford Focus. So I dont know if that includes the wiring colors or not. But if you dont have any communication with the pcm, Im thinking its not powering up at all. I know you have power at the pcm power relay, but that circuit is powered up all the time and not by the ignition switch. Both sides of the pcm relay have power all the time.

So the big indicator here will be, does the Check Engine light come on with the key On or cranking? I think we need to check the power feeds to the pcm from the ignition switch to begin with if the check engine light does not come on.
Another check you can do, is with the key On, you can check a 3 wire sensor for the 5volt Reference, if the 5vRef is missing, the pcm is not powered up or a sensor is shorted out pulling the 5vRef down. This can cause a no start.
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Monday, February 27th, 2023 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
STEPHEN LEWIN
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  • 4 POSTS
Only warning light on the dash is yellow cog with exclamation, glow plug light and slow pulsing red light when the key is turned to the start position.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2023 AT 1:33 AM
Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,692 POSTS
So, the ECM is not being powered up, and that's why the PCM relay and fuel pump relay are not energizing. Do you know where the ECM is in the vehicle? I want to see if the part number on it matches up with any of the Ford Focus ECMs or any other model. If we get the correct part number maybe, we can match it up with another a different vehicle and be able to use those ECM diagrams. I believe your vehicle is a 1st generation. It's always difficult when it comes to Euro vehicles here and we can't find the correct service info. Is this what yours looks like?
The first year we have listed here is a 2010 Transit Connect 2.0, and interestingly the diagram setup at least for the fuel pump relay and PCM relay are the same. I'm not sure how much the ECM diagrams will show, but we can try by attempting to match up some wire coloring.
PCM is supposed to be located at the rear of the engine, does this van have a doghouse in the middle of the dash?
So far, all the ignition coil control wires match up with the 2010 ECM diagrams. So do the ECM grounds.
Since I'm not sure we are in the same time zone. Start with checking for power at the Data Link connector pin 16 and use pins 4 and 5 as a ground.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2023 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
STEPHEN LEWIN
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That is the va> I haven't uncover the PCM as yet but I understand it is in a slot in driverside front wing panel, under the coolant expansion bottle. Didn't get to do any checks today because I was busy but will do them tomorrow. Thanks
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2023 AT 12:50 PM
Tiny
AL514
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Okay, I'm going to try to get the PCM wiring diagrams if I can, and we can do power and ground checks at it and try to figure out what's going on here. In the meantime, do some visual inspections of the fuse panels in the engine compartment, check the underside of them, the ones in the engine compartment are exposed to the elements and they get corroded the fastest. You might have to unbolt the panel to check it, but look for any green or white corrosion, broken off pins, corrosion in connectors, etc. See if you find any broken wires. Also, check the ground connections from the battery negative to the engine block and body of the vehicle. You can use a test light hooked to battery positive, and a good ground should light the test light bright.
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Tuesday, February 28th, 2023 AT 1:30 PM

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