Blend door actuator?

Where do I check power supply. The other actuators work fine.

I know I can check it at the disconnect bot I don't know where it gets its feed

If the 12V is low there, where does come from

This problem is really confusing: When I unlock the door with the key, not using the fob, the actuator starts to chatter and stops after about 10 seconds.

It will also start to chatter again periodically. I've got all of the driver's door, radio, instrument cluster electrical connections all disconnected.

There is only one hot wire on my climate control connection, orange. I tried to check continuity on the pin connections on the climate control panel, slide switches for going from hot to cold, and got nothing. I presume the slides are some type of resistance circuits. I do have continuity from the actuator and the climate control harness connector wires.

The temperature door stays in the cooling mode.
What is the body control module.

I am buying a new body control module and will have it flashed.

There are several electrical issues with my car:
1. Radio speakers in the rear work, but volume is low and speakers in the front don't work.(No corrosion on orange speaker wires by back seat).
2. Key fob won't program.
3. Passenger side temp. Actuator chatters as noted in our chats.

$105 for the new module and $100 to flash it.

The radio has power and everything works other than sound. The program mode come up like it's supposed to but it won't flash, Press FOB command is supposed to flash in order to program the FOB but, it doesn't.

Why would the back speakers work, faintly, and the front won't if the radio was bad?

Doesn't the BCM have something to do with the radio and HVAC control panel?

I've tried almost everything?

One issue that I've found is that I can shift out of Park without pressing on the brake but only if the ignition switch is in Acc or On position. I disconnected the 2 switches and can still shift out of park?

Should I remove the console and check the solenoid by the shifter or is there a solenoid there? Could this be the source of my problem?

Steve

I found my problem with the new temp selector actuator! I cut the wires from the bad actuator control panel and spliced in the connector to the drivers side actuator and it worked just fine. The problem was the actuator they sent me was defective also. Too many hours trying to find a ground issue. I gave Rockauto hell and they're sending me a new one.

Still have radio issues and shifter problem but I'll work them out. Thanks for your help.

Steve

Now I'm not sure if I found the problem or not!

What tells the actuator motor to shut off. I plug it in and it runs continuously in either direction depending on where I slide the temp resistance slide switch.

This is with the actuator removed from the damper. Does the actuator motor keep it's 12V feed on all the time depending on the temp setting? I would think that this would eventually break the damper shaft?

I can move the damper by hand and let go of it and it always falls closed or possibly open.

I don't know if it's falling closed (open) to allow heat or falling closed (open) to allow air conditioning?