2003 Jeep Liberty Battery Troubles

Tiny
STARSX37
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 JEEP LIBERTY
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 133 MILES
I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty Sport and the check engine light, the battery light and the airbag light are on. Drove home (approx 33 miles) with the heater off and the stereo off too. About 3 blocks away and I noticed that the RPM's were not shifting normally (automatic) and the light on the cd player had died too. And when I finally arrived at home, the mileage meter was starting to fade. Any ideas?
Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011 AT 10:58 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Have the charging system checked out thoroughly
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Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
STARSX37
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Going to get the alternator and battery checked out as soon as someone else gets home. Anything else that should also be looked at?
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Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011 AT 11:20 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
Many Popular parts stores will test all of that for FREE, if your CHECK ENGINE LIGHT REMAINS ON, Have them "CODE" your car also, it may just be "ON' because something may be wrong in your charging system. But have it coded regardless.

If you will bring the codes back here, RASMATAZ, will be able to point you in the direction you need to go.I'm still in the '80's on back with my Older CJs, So Ras will be the man!

The Medic
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Tuesday, February 22nd, 2011 AT 11:36 PM
Tiny
STARSX37
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
P1491 & P0562 Were the two codes that were put out onto the reader. The alternator tested good and the battery was replaced. The vehicle started right up after they were re-installed. Once the codes were read, they were cleared. About 2 minutes later the lights came back on with the same codes.
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Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011 AT 3:10 AM
Tiny
STARSX37
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
And now the Jeep is running off of the battery again.
*FRUSTRATED*
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Wednesday, February 23rd, 2011 AT 5:03 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,005 POSTS
SORRY YOU ARE/WERE HAVING PROBLEMS THAT WE COULD NOT ASSIST YOU WITH. PLEASE LET US KNOW WHAT YOU HAVE COME UP WITH---WE LEARN HERE TOO! THANKS--THE MEDIC
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 4:43 AM
Tiny
XZEROTIMEX
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I see this is an old post, but I was wondering if this was ever solved. I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty that's doing the same thing. It will start fine, but after about 1/4 mile of driving the battery light comes on, little further and the ABS light comes on, little further and the airbag light comes on. After all of this I was very concerned. If you turn it off after that it will not start without a jump, and it will not stay running without your foot on the gas. Needless to say I had to have a friends tow me home. The next morning went out to work on it and it started right up. I am at a total loss here.
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Thursday, January 25th, 2018 AT 1:45 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,912 POSTS
This should not be so confusing. It is a very common problem with a simple fix. The alternator is quitting intermittently. The first mistake in the original post was the charging system was tested while the alternator was working, so of course it's going to test good. Testing must be done while the problem is occurring.

The most common cause of intermittent operation is worn brushes inside the alternator. Those can be replaced separately if you can find the assembly. It costs ten bucks for my Grand Caravans and can be replaced without removing the alternator from the engine. Auto parts stores might have the brush assembly, otherwise you'll need to find a starter / generator rebuild shop. Every larger city has at least one of those. You can find the closest one by asking at any car or large truck repair shop. The Chrysler dealer's parts department might have these too. The alternative is to just replace the entire alternator.

The multiple warning lights turn on because computers become confused when the electrical system voltage is low. They know they will not be able to work properly, so they shut down, then turn on their warning lights to tell you.

Since the battery was disconnected or run dead, everything in the computers' memories will be lost. Most of the data will be rebuilt while driving without you even noticing, except for "minimum throttle". The Engine Computer has to relearn that before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. Until that is relearned, idle speed will be too low, possibly to the point the engine won't run unless you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4". The engine will tend to stall at stop signs, and you won't get the nice idle flare-up to 1500 rpm at start-up. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.
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Thursday, January 25th, 2018 AT 3:53 PM

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