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Touble code P0216

Tiny
ONGERUPTYRES
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 ISUZU
4 cyl Four Wheel Drive Manual 200000 miles

I have a customers Isuzu Rodeo (2003 3.0L TD) currently in my workshop.
Condition was poor cold starting and excessive black smoke when cold. Changing the glow plugs and setting valve clearances seemed a logical place to start as the customer said neither of these had been done. The condition however did not improve.

I then checked for fault codes with my Carman VG Scan tool. P0216 Injection Timing Control Circuit Malfunction is the only code that came up. What I can't find out is what I need to do to rectify this fault.

I also own a 2006 euro 3 isuzu nkr turbo intercooler 3.0 truck. When cruising over 50mph and over 2000rpm the "engine check" light comes on and I lose power. Once the engine drops below 2000rpm and whilst under 50mph the light goes out and I again regain power. Note: the engine does not cut out, the engine merely does not respond to the accelerator. If I press the clutch pedal and accelerate the engine, it revs up and may go up to 4 thousand rpm. The fault analyzer showed code P0216 code and so far I have changed the fuel filter. There is ample fuel flow to injector pump and the tiny filter located on the inlet of the pump is clean, I have further placed clips on all fuel lines. I have noticed that when I drive in an erratic manner I can get the vehicle to a high speed, however when I keep the said speed steady the "check engine" light comes on again and I lose power. Can you help.

Any assistance would be appreciated.
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Wednesday, December 5th, 2007 AT 6:20 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there, I was wondering if you ever sorted this problem out, I do realize that it is quite a while ago now, but I also have a customer with the same code can you shed any light on this one.
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Sunday, October 2nd, 2011 AT 3:53 AM
Tiny
ANDY M
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Hi thanks for that i'll have to see later. A friend mechanic suggested that it is possibly the seal on the front of the injector pump. We replaced it, started up and travelled for 400 meters and the engine cut out completely. I proceeded to locate the problem suspecting the injector pump. One kind gentleman in Lancanshire named Colin who sells isuzu second hand parts stated that it could be the idler gear bearing as he has had a similar problem in the past. I stripped the engine front down and saw that it was in fact what he suggested. I am now looking for the injector pump gear and the idler gear which comes with the bearing. Can anyone help me with locating these parts for a 4JH1-tc engine I believe its the same engine used on the D-Max. Thanks
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Friday, February 24th, 2012 AT 6:29 PM
Tiny
ANDY M
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Finally managed to get a second hand idler gear with bearing, I put everything together but the vehicle would not start. When taking the gear off the injector pump shaft there was no key to relocate the gear back on the exact position. The shaft and gear is tapered. Luckily my friend the mechanic had marked it before taking it off. Once it was back on, the vehicle started first time, but I feel the timing is still not exactly on the spot. Anyway I drove the vehicle down the road and once the engine revs were above 2,000 and constant the engine check light came on again. I believe that it was coincidental that I discovered the idler gear bearing worn something that would have caused me a lot of damage. I now need to connect the analyzer to read the code. I need to check the crankshaft sensor and the transfer pump. Has anybody got any advice? I havent checked the egr as I can go well over the 3000rpm and travel well over the speed limit when driving harsh. However I will check that when I do the easy checks first.

Egr valve checked working fine. I am now stuck can anyone tell me how to set the gear on the injector pump so it is on precisely where it should be please. A nkr 3.0l 2005 the engine fitted 4jh1 tc is that of the d-max only difference I believe the d-max is a 2.5l. My main problem I believe was that of the worn idler bearing which brought up the P0216 i.E. Electronic timing malfunction. The bearing has since been replaced however when carrying out the work I moved the injection pump timing gear and I am unable to get the timing on exactly. The shaft of pump and gear are tapered and do not have a location key or spline and I need to know how to set it up. Do you know anyone who can give me directions. I believe a pump specialist would be more appropriate. The manual as you said does not give this information.

Regards Andy
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Sunday, March 4th, 2012 AT 3:51 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,245 POSTS
It sounds like you need to rebuild the injector pump here is a service builtin and some diagrams (Below) that should help you get the problem fixed.

Service Information

Condition:

Some of the above-listed vehicles may exhibit a no-start condition in extremely cold weather (temperatures below 0°C (32°F).

Correction:

A new injection pump heater pad is now available to address this condition.

Injection Pump Heater Pad Usage

The purpose of the injection pump heater pad is to maintain an above-freezing (0°C, 32°F) temperature. The heater pad is not intended for quick heating of the injection pump.

The heater pad should be plugged in at night (end of day) prior to when the evening temperature is expected to drop below freezing.
Then, the heater pad should be unplugged in the morning prior to starting the vehicle.
The heater pad operation time is overnight.
Use the following procedure and part number to install an injection pump heater pad. The injection pump heater pad installs onto the back side of the injection pump. Refer to the Isuzu Engine sub-section of the 1999-2001 Isuzu Commercial Truck 4HEI - TC Engine Service Manual for additional important procedure instructions and information regarding intake manifold removal.

Injection Pump Heater Pad Installation

1. Tilt the cab forward.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Remove the injector fuel lines.
4. Disconnect the air duct from the intake manifold.
5. Remove the vacuum lines from the intake manifold, the EGR valve and the throttle valve.

IMPORTANT :

Do not damage the rubber manifold gasket seal. This seal will be reused.

6. Remove the intake manifold.

7. Thoroughly clean the back side of the injection pump (Refer to the arrow in the illustration). Remove all dirt, grease and oil. Use an abrasive pad to remove any material. You must have a clean bare metal surface.

8. Install the injection pump heater pad (1) on the injection pump so that the harness is positioned toward the rear of the vehicle.
9. Remove the covering from the pressure sensitive adhesive on the heater pad. Avoid touching the adhesive if possible.
10. Plug the heater pad into an 110 volt three-prong outlet for 3-5 seconds in order to warm the pad.
11. Unplug and apply the pad. Start with the opposite edge from the cord.
12. Using the squeegee provided, apply pressure to affix the heater pad. Avoid wrinkling while smoothing the pad if possible.

13. Plug in the heater for 5-10 seconds. Unplug and squeegee again.

14. Route the harness behind the engine along the power steering lines, then to the frame rail and up to the air cleaner. Position the plug for the heater pad in the same location as the block heater for easy access.
15. Install the previously removed intake manifold rubber seal and the intake manifold to the engine. Replace the seal if damaged.
16. Install the injector fuel lines. Make sure that there is no dirt or foreign material on the lines or fittings during installation.
17. Install the vacuum hoses for the intake manifold, the EGR valve and the throttle valve.
18. Connect the air duct to the intake manifold.
19. Bleed the fuel system.
20. Start the engine. Inspect for leaks.
The heater pad can be used immediately.

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken
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Thursday, October 12th, 2017 AT 12:24 PM

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