COP Assembly Mounting Bolts

Tiny
CURTCURTIS
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
2003 Ford Expedition, 5.4 Lt. Engine. How do I remove the COP assembly mounting bolts when the screw that holds the COP assembly in the cylinder head appears to be stripped? Thank You, Curt
Friday, May 27th, 2011 AT 7:16 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
My info shows a bolt head for the ignition cover, if that is what your talking about? Anyway you can use a pair of vice-grips to grab the bolt head? Then you can try to pull out and unscrew at the same time.
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Friday, May 27th, 2011 AT 9:57 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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Do you threads are stripped and it's just spinning or head is rounded off? What kind of head is on it? Standard hex shape? Advance auto sells a set of special sockets for bolts with stripped/rounded corners.
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Friday, May 27th, 2011 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
CURTCURTIS
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JDL,

There is one mounting bolt heads for each Coil Over Plug (COP) system. I have a V8, 5.4 Lt. 2003 Ford Expedition. I will try the vice-grips to see if it works. Thank You, Curt
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Saturday, May 28th, 2011 AT 12:15 AM
Tiny
CURTCURTIS
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Fixitmr,

The threads are not stripped and the bolt heads are in good shape. I do not have a problem putting a socket wrench on the standard hex shape bolt head. In order to remove the spark splug, I must first remove the bolt securing the ignition coil connected to the spark splug. The bolt securing the COP is screwed into the cylinder head.

The cylinder head is made out of black plastic. At each point where the mounting bolt goes, there is a metal sleve with screw threads inside. When I attempt to remove the mounting bolt, the metal sleve just turns. I hope that the information provided will help you to solve my problem. Thank you, Curt
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Saturday, May 28th, 2011 AT 12:32 AM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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Just another case of. Fords got a BETTER idea? No wonder they didn't need bailout money?
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Saturday, May 28th, 2011 AT 7:31 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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CAN YOU GET TO THE ROTATING SLEEVE AT ALL?

I HAD A SIMILAR ISSUE WITH THE WIFEYS FORD ESCAPE 3. OL 6 CYL, 'CEPT IT WAS THE COVER YOU MUST REMOVE TO GET TO THE FRONT PLUGS.

I DO R/C AIRPLANES, WE USE "SUPER GLUE" TO BOND THE WOOD AND STUFF, ITS NOT CALLED SUPER GLUE, IT'S CALLED "C.A.". C.A. COMES IN SEVERAL VISCOSITIES, PROBABLY THE ONE USED THE MOST, IS THE THINNEST. IT DRIES REALLY FAST AND FLOWS LIKE ALCOHOL.

YOU CAN GET LONG TUBES (SOME ARE 10 OR SO INCH LONG HOSES) TO ATTACH TO THE GLUE BOTTLE. IT DOES NOT TAKE MUCH TO "FLOW" AROUND A SMALL PART. AND YOU MUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET IT ON SOMETHING YOU DO NOT WANT IT ON. YOU, FOR INSTANCE!

I SUGGEST A FEW TRIAL RUNS, ON THE KIDS BROKEN TOYS, BEFORE YOU "COMMIT" TO YOUR THREADED INSERT.

THIS STUFF IS SO WATERY, IT WILL FOOL YOU AS TO HOW MUCH YOU ARE SQUIRTING OUT! A SLOW MOTION, GENTLE SQUEEZE IS ALL IT TAKES.

LET IT DRY FOR 30 MINUTES TO AN HOUR. AS A BEGINNER, YOU WILL USE TOO MUCH. DON'T RUSH IT, IT WILL FINALLY HARDEN. AS YOU GET MORE EXPERIENCED, 30-SEC TO A MIN. WILL BE THE STANDARD!

YOU CAN USE THIS FOR ALMOST ANYTHING, BUY THE SMALLEST BOTTLE POSSIBLE. IT WILL GET TURNED OVER AT SOME POINT, OR EVAPORATE. DON'T WASTE $$$ ON THE BIG ONE. ABOUT $5, FOR A SMALL BOTTLE.

YOU CAN GET THIS STUFF AT R/C AIRPLANE OR MODEL CAR HOBBY SHOPS.

LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES, I HOPE THERE'S ENOUGH MEAT THERE, FOR A GOOD BOND.

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, May 28th, 2011 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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MY 3 BIRDS

THE MEDIC
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Saturday, May 28th, 2011 AT 8:39 AM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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Just a thought, was there specific reason to change that COP? If it's working you can skip it? And if you think this strip is a problem, pray you dont have the misfortune of blowing a plug out of the block? It's known to happen on these engines!
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Saturday, May 28th, 2011 AT 10:01 AM
Tiny
89INTEGRALS
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The bolt you are trying to remove is a 7mm hex head bolt that retains the coil. I have seen this problem unfortunatly too many times. The bolts have usually been cross threaded in or water has leaked in and caused corrosion in the threads. When trying to remove the bolt the plastic cracks and the insert turns in the housing. You can try to zip it out with a quarter inch air rachet and if you are lucky it will come out. The other option is to gently lift on the coil and rotate the bolt with the insert turning and try to remove the bolt and insert together with the coil and ( be careful not to crack the intake or the coil )If this works you will be able to seperate the insert and bolt off the coil on your work bench. The proper repair would be to replace the intake, the other option would be to epoxy the insert back into the intake being careful not to get anything in the threads. Allow enough time for epoxy to dry before reinstalling coil. Do not over tighten and apply a touch of grease to threads on bolt so it wont stick again.
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+1
Saturday, May 28th, 2011 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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I have not personally delt with this exact problem but I was thinking along the same lines as how to deal with it if necessary.
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Sunday, May 29th, 2011 AT 2:52 AM

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