Battery draining

The fuses you mentioned should have voltage all the time because they can work without having the ignition switch turned on. You have to check for current draw, and that is real tricky now with all of the computers on the cars. I can describe how to do it but you'll still have to pull fuses to see which one reduces the drain. You'll need a digital multimeter that can read at least to two amps, ten is better. You'll also need a short jumper wire with alligator clips on each end.

Ah, if only it were that easy. :( A clamp-on ammeter is not nearly accurate enough to measure the tiny currents you're going to find draining the battery. They work well for large AC current like for items in a house, and for large DC currents like the starter current in a car, but those things involve many amps so one or two amps of inaccuracy is not important. When you're looking for a battery drain, 35 milliamps or less is acceptable. That's.035 amp, WAY too small for the clamp-on meters to measure. It sounds like you're onto a problem though with the shift indicator. Is there a chance something has been added to the wiring or something was modified that lets the engine stay running after you turn the ignition switch off? Just for fun, try switching the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay with a different one like it to see if the problem changes. That relay has to be turned on for the engine to run. Something is making it stay on after you turn the ignition switch off. Although rare, it's possible the contacts are pitted and welding themselves together or there is corrosion inside holding the contact on.