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Knock sensor location for replacement?

Tiny
PATTYPATTY21
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 MERCURY VILLAGER
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
Please help me to locate the knock sensor?
Thursday, January 8th, 2015 AT 5:18 PM

18 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,871 POSTS
It is under the intake manifold. Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find.
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Tuesday, June 13th, 2017 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
BOBBIJOSCARBORO
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 MERCURY VILLAGER
About 6 months ago I began having problems with my car skipping. I took it in to get the spark plugs and spark plug wires changed. After this, the skipping stopped for about 2 weeks then started again. My mechanic said this would be the spark plugs buy maybe the wires so I paid to have them replaced a second time. This helped for about 2 more weeks. The van starts skipping again, this time the check engine lights comes on and is flashing on and off. It does do it all the time only when the car is skipping/hesitating (btw the van is not skipping/hesitating all the time - only on occasion - maybe once every 2 to 3 days). I take the car in once again after the skipping causes the van to stall out. This time the mechanic calls me back and says the computer is reading bad knock sensor and that spark 5 is misfiring. He tells me that it is going to cost me close to $700.00 to replace the knock sensor HOWEVER this will not guarantee that the skipping/hesitations will stop. He explained that he was not sure how a "sensor" would cause the car's engine to skip.
. Can you please help me?
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVE H
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,383 POSTS
Hello. Thanks for the donation. Much appreciated

The symptoms your describing sound exactly like a faulty MAF (mass airflow) sensor would cause. This should set it's own fault code. But not always?

TEST DG: KNOCK SENSOR (KS)
Diagnostic Aids
Perform this test only when directed by QUICK TEST. This test is intended to diagnose the following:
Knock Sensor (KS)
Harness Circuit: KS
Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
To prevent replacement of good components, be aware the following non-EEC related areas may be at fault:
Poor Fuel Quality
Ignition Timing
Engine Mechanical Condition
CIRCUIT PIN IDENTIFICATION
CircuitPCM Pin No. Wire Color
KS63White
GND45Black/Red

NOTE:Freeze frame data will not be stored in the ECM for the knock sensor. The MIL will not light for a knock sensor malfunction.

DTC P0325

DTC P0325 indicates that spark knock has occurred and knock sensor failed to detect. Possible causes for this fault are as follows:
PCM not receiving signal.
Open or short in harness.
Faulty knock sensor.
Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM. Disconnect knock sensor in-line connector. Measure resistance of KS signal circuit (White wire) between PCM connector terminal No. 63 and KS in-line connector. Measure resistance of GND circuit (Black/Red wire) between PCM harness connector terminal No. 45 and KS in-line connector. If resistances are less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistances are more than 5 ohms, repair open in White or Black/Red wires. See Fig. 11. See CIRCUIT PIN IDENTIFICATION table.
Check KS Circuit For Short To Ground

Disconnect PCM. Disconnect KS in-line connector. Measure resistance of KS circuit between PCM connector terminal No. 63 (White wire) and GND terminal No. 45 (Black/Red wire). If resistance is more than 10 k/ohms, go to next step. If resistance is less than 10 k/ohms, repair short circuit in wiring.
Fig. 11: Identifying KS Sensor Connector Terminals
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Check KS Circuits For Short To Power

Disconnect PCM. Disconnect KS in-line connector. Measure resistance of KS circuit between PCM connector terminal No. 63 (White wire) and VPWR terminals No. 66 and 97 (Black/White wires). Measure resistance between PCM connector terminal No. 63 (White wire) and KAPWR terminal No. 80 (Yellow wire). If each resistance measurement is more than 10 k/ohms, go to next step. If each resistance measurement is less than 10 k/ohms, repair short circuit in wiring.
Check Resistance Of KS

Ensure KS in-line connector is disconnected. Measure resistance between KS connector terminal White wire and ground. If resistance is 500-620 k/ohms, replace PCM. If resistance is not 500-620 k/ohms, replace knock sensor.
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF CUNEO
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I have a 99 mercury villager and the knock sensor code has always been there. I am replacing it by using the method of buying the sensor--and on the front of the engine just below the distributor is a perfect tapped hole sitting there. You cut the white wire (4 down in the harness)--which leads to the internal sensor taking it out of the system and attach the wire to the new one. The harness plug in that plugs into the sensor has to be purchased even if ordered. You then attach the ground wire to an appropriate location. Keep in mind to replace the sensor--they are going to want thousands because they have to take apart the engine. This method is perfectly fine and acceptable and done by anyone that is not rich. The thickness of the sensor is.780--more than 3/4. The tapped hole is metric. M8--1.25 X 30 mm. The 30 mm designates how much thread. If shorter the threads will barely engage one or 2 DO NOT USE 5/16--18 which is VERY CLOSE to the metric. Get that exact metric SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW at home depot. Here is the part number for the plug in harness you will need CARQUEST BY BWD PIGTAIL S28423 You will need to cut slots in it
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF CUNEO
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I want to refine my answer on the knock sensor and will try to attach the photo. The correct wire is FOUR SPACESBUT ITS THE THIRD WIRE DOWN. NOTE PHOTO The knock sensor is $13 + $3 shipping $16.02 delivered to your mailbox. Just returned the one back to the parts store--GOT $107 ! Put back on my card
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF CUNEO
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I want to further refine my replies to this thread. I finished the knock sensor bypass fix and worked perfect and a video is already on youtube for it. I ESPECIALLY want to note that the bad item was indeed the knock sensor which was toasted totally out--checking out as "open circuit" from it having been that way for years and giving alot of extraneous codes for stuff I kept replacing which turns out WERE FINE. "Throttle position--cam shaft position sensor" etc they all went out instantly when I bolted down and connected the new sensor. Over the years people had kept saying "if its the knock sensor its going to set off various bad codes that "come and go mysteriously"--however at that time I knew it required taking apart the engine so I kept driving with it till I found out about the fix for less than $50. I still had "crankshaft position sensor"--however that was because the sensor was loose and the connector all ruined and not making contact as well. I used the same connector modification to fashion a new plug in--tightened down the sensor by going in from the front with 10mm deep socket and extension--plugged in the fixed connector--ALL codes were gone for the first time in 5 years. Took it in for emissions and it passed perfect! IF SOMEONE KNOWS WHY THEY DO NOT SELL THE PLUGIN FOR KNOCK SENSOR--PLEASE SAY SOMETHING. My feeling is that its such a high profit fix to take apart the engine that they want to make sure the person hits items such as missing connectors that cant be bought BECAUSE THEY DONT WANT THE PUBLIC TO BE ABLE TO FIX IT. The connector turns out fits alot of items on the vehicle so I am uploading a picture how the connector looks after you get it and snap off the plastic shroud. It goes fast--just a few minutes then it helps to use a file to file off the remnants of the plastic collar still sticking out a bit. It only needs to be filed a bit so that it enters the socket. I went to such lengths on this post since this is a nightmare for everyone now that they only hook up to the computer for codes for emissions testing. Im getting another of the plugs today since they plug into most of the devices on the vehicle for ohms testing--also a big problem in the community where they often say "your better off taking it out to test it"
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:27 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOLLY09
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 MERCURY VILLAGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 154,321 MILES
Do I have to take anything off the engine in order to install a knock sensor on a 1999 mercury villager?
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Yes upper intake
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RUBENL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 MERCURY VILLAGER
I just need to know where is located the knock sensor. The book said under the intake manifold, but in the right side or left side.
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFF CUNEO
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
This gave me nightmares while researching this. The knock sensor is under the manifold and if you fix it by taking apart the engine its a major financial loss. I used the bypass method and cut the wire and attached the new one and bolted it down below the distributor using the tapped open hole there. I uploaded a very detailed video of the fast inexpensive fix. The fix by the way is not "a bogus fix"--the sensor will be fully functional and the install looks good. About $50 total including the parts if you order them. The knock sensor I paid $16.02 was $13 but there was shipping. For those seeing this do not do the repair only based on this post-watch the video. It will come right up with the keywords.
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
Hello,

The sensor is under the intake manifold. Here is a guide that will give you an idea on what you are in for when changing the knock sensor and some diagrams (below) on what it will be like on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-intake-manifold-gasket

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BLD123
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 MERCURY VILLAGER
I recently took my villager to a mechanic and he attempted to change the knock sensor without quoting me a price before he did the job. After a week of not being finished, I wondered what on earth was going on. So, I went down there and he had the whole top of the motor tore out. When he told me that it was going to be 950 dollars, I nearly fell over. I told him to put the old knock sensor back in and redo the wiring leading to the wiring harness, so that I wouldn't have to pay as much and still receive an emissions sticker. Afterwards, he put the motor back together and there now is a miss in the engine. So, my question is how long does an average mechanic needs to change a knock sensor on a 1999 Mercury Villager. Also, why is the engine now missing and losing power on hills? Thank you

Ben Dowler
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
It doesn't sound like it, they are two different problems. Do you have a check engine light on? If so here is a guide to help us see if there are any codes so we can get the problem fixed for you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers, Ken
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
THERESA HELLEMS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Yes its on. I was trying to go the cheaper repair route. Lol. Thanks again, I will take a loss on this van. I have paid 1200 plus numerous problems and repairs. Still not running right. Taking back to the car lot and telling him forget it.
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KKEVIN56
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1997 MERCURY VILLAGER
Where is the knock sensor and how do I replace it
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Knock Sensor


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_k_1.gif


The Knock Sensor is located in the block, below the lower Intake manifold

REMOVAL
1.Remove the lower intake manifold.
2.Remove the coolant crossover tube.
3.Disconnect the battery ground cable.
4.Disconnect the Knock Sensor(KS) electrical connector.
5.Remove the KS bolt and the KS from the cylinder block.

INSTALLATION
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
- Tighten the KS bolt to25-34 N.m (18-25 lb-ft).

https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/auto_repair_manuals_alldata.htm
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1996 MERCURY VILLAGER
  • 135,000 MILES
Here are code for the problem: P0235 knock sensor 1 CKT malfunction, P101 Manufacturer specific code. Hope to you'll find the answer easily.
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
It is a mass air flow code. Voltages need to be checked as well as the sensor needs to be scoped to verify it is working. Make sure the hoses are good and tight and not leaking any air.

For now, ignore the other code as nissan had issues with knock sensor codes popping up with other hard failures when there was no knock sensor issue

Roy
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Sunday, May 23rd, 2021 AT 11:28 AM (Merged)

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