Hope that solves the problem.
Removing a soldered-in relay will not be easy because after you melt the solder on one terminal, it will harden again before you get the others melted. If you put a little sideways pressure on it, you might get one terminal at a time to lift a little. Keep working around all the pins that way but be careful to not push so hard that you crack the board. Then you have to send it to me. I've repaired a lot of cracked front circuit boards on radios that the UPS basketball team dropped on their way to me.
You can also use a small suction bulb to suck off the molten solder. I use a product called "solder wick". That's a copper braided wire with flux in it to make that molten solder flow into it and off the board. For what you're doing it's not practical to buy a whole roll of the stuff.
When you solder, heat the terminal and the copper circuit on the board at the same time, and touch the solder to the other side of the terminal. When it melts it will flow toward the heat source and coat the connection. Don't heat the connection any longer than necessary because the copper can lift off the board. It can still work that way, but that copper is also the mechanical connection that holds the relay in place. If too many of the copper circuits are lifted, vibration will eventually cause them to crack resulting in a broken circuit. I can fix that too.
Wednesday, November 21st, 2012 AT 3:31 AM