2001 Nissan Maxima ignition misfire problem

Tiny
CANCKS
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 120,000 MILES
Good day, im having issue with my car starting up, usually first thing in the morning, the car starts up as usual, but if I drive to the store and startit up again, It takes a while to startup, if I would to start the car 3-4 more times during the day, I usually have the same startup issue, and it has happen to me one that all day it started up normal, there no engine codes at all, the local mechanic said that it may be a synchronization problem in the engine, but thats just his opinion, im really lost here, I just want the car to start up so I can sell it.

Thanks for your time, any questions please do not hesitate to ask.
Friday, July 26th, 2013 AT 4:36 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure first.
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Saturday, July 27th, 2013 AT 10:55 AM
Tiny
CANCKS
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  • 5 POSTS
Thanks for the quick reply, the car currently does not have any codes, but I will have the fuel pressure checked, would it be good to check if the injectors are in good shape?
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Saturday, July 27th, 2013 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
The inectors could be checked but check other tings first like vacuum leaks, etc. You can only test for resistance unless you have a noid light to test conection.
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Sunday, July 28th, 2013 AT 5:50 AM
Tiny
CANCKS
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ok, so I took a dive into the motor, im attaching links to a video I made because I saw a post on maxima forums regarding an issue very similiar to mine, his problem was that fuel was leaking into the vacuum ports of this FPRegulator and dampener, I checked for this also since you wanted to check for vacuum leaks and fuel pressure, I still havent checked the pressure, but I am posting a video and audio clip (in video form) of me turning the car on and off and you can clearly hear the problem, the video clip is me checking the vacuum lines and they are dry and seem to work ok.

Thank you very much for your time and feedback, I appreciate you helping me.
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Monday, July 29th, 2013 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
It sounds like it is leaking vacuum someplace but with the way it's shot it's hard for me to see where it is with all the hoses around there. You might try choke cleaner to find the leak or what area i'm sending a vacuum diagram to check where things should be hooked up. Also if you have any vacuum tanks check for those being cracked or plastic pipes broken. The last pic is of evap but vacuum goes to that as well so check those.
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Tuesday, July 30th, 2013 AT 6:22 AM
Tiny
CANCKS
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ok, so I checked all the vacuum hoses within the top part of the motor and they all seem to be in good shape, no sign of decay. I took some random pics which I have attached a link, I did make a discovery tho, also attached are 2 audio files, which will be explained in a minute, I found out that the throttle cable (dont really know the correct name) yes the one that when you push the gas pull the throttle body so it can accelerate, well I should say both cables where not properly tighten, Also I noticed there is a adjustment on the throttle body that was a 8mm nut with a bolt that has a screwdriver fitting in the middle (also included in the pics). That was preventing the throttle "gate" (also dont know the correct name) from closing all the way, I do not know if it has to be or not. I cleaned the throttle body with CRC TB cleaner, also cleaned my MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner. So when I was cleaning the thottle body I decided to mess with the adjustment screw and set it all the way back so that I could close all the gate, had to make adjustments on the cables so that it go all the way down and close properly, once I did that I assembled the parts and decided to turn on my car, I forgot to record the audio for this but it took A LOOOONG time to turn on and it seems it would have no hope ever of turning on, when it did It would totally die on me, it wouldnt idle at all, so I went back to the original position, thats where I recorded Audio clip named "nota1" is the clip I recorded when I turned it on, before I turned off the car you can hear a AIR sound or leak when I lightly step on the gas, this is pretty much the same audio as yesterday and it does take a little less to start, the car now idles at 800 rpm. I decided to turn it up some more and see what would happen, and baaam the car starts a lot faster buuut, it idles at 1000-1100 rpm which if you are in park and put it on Drive, you have yourself a good 10mph automatically, in Audio Clip "nota 2" you can hear the difference its not a difficult to start, maybe its an Air problem?

Thanks Hmac300
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Tuesday, July 30th, 2013 AT 6:53 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
See pics and clean iac valve with choke cleaner this is proper way to adjust throttle sensor. Also check fuel pressure like I asked sand look for holes in air duct or not sealing properly as well.
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+1
Wednesday, July 31st, 2013 AT 7:08 AM
Tiny
CANCKS
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hmac, Thanks for everything, this morning a person asked if I wanted to sell my car for a reasonable price, so I went with it, didnt get a chance to finish the last part of the instructions you gave me, thank you for all your help, its great to find experts willing to help without anything in return. This shows that there are still great people willing to help others. -Cesar Cuevas
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Monday, August 5th, 2013 AT 8:09 PM

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