Oil Pressure Light

Check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, if normal replace the oil pressure switch. If abnormal could mean oil pump and/or engine bearing.

It is probably time for an oil change here is a guide to help you get the job done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-engine-oil-and-filter

Next I would do the sender. If the oil is new or has being changed then i would plan on removing the oil pan and cleaning out the oil pump pick up becasue it has been plugged with gunk.

If you are experiencing funny noises or knocking at low pressure for sure, it is probably serious! Something you did mentioned here, is have you checked your oil level. It is important to check it at minimum, "weekly" as probably prescribed in your owner’s manual and also if you suspect a problem or your gauge or light says you have a problem! Anything could happen within seconds, your oil plug falls out (installed wrong) or road debris knocks a hole in your pan! If oil is the issue, immediately shut it down!!!....no limping it another 500 feet! Remove your oil pressure sender and install a mechanical oil pressure gauge. This will give you a real accurate reading as to what your actual oil pressure is, and is doing while being driven.

A gauge set up sort a like mine, or an aftermarket under the dash mount (used as a portable, temporary test platform) will allow it to be run out from under the hood and into your window, so you can watch it as you drive, on top of the dash, or in the seat beside you.....might pick out a pertty one, you may want to mount it permanently and do away with the electric one,
Most likely your sender is defective (normally the problem in cases like yours)--- the actual gauge in the dash would be the second guess as to being bad, or the wiring in between. Some people just change the sender as their "test", that is fine, unless it does not seem to work out

I was told that 4 psi was adequate pressure to lube an engine, by a local production engine re-builder (i would not want that myself!) the norm is between 20-60 psi. 10 psi is when I start getting alert and ready to rebuild.

A "high volume" oil pump is available for my engine (may be able to find one for yours too) I have installed several on this and others I have owned previously. They have increased my pressure, and cost about $120 or so, just a guess, i gained maybe another 60,000 miles, before pressure dropped off again.

This may be an option for you, if the mechanical gauge does prove that you do have wear and tear, and pressure just ain't gonna improve until you do something mechanical. High volume pump/ internal bearings/ or a rebuild
be sure you keep us posted...we like hearing a good ending!

the medic

Check the engine oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, if it is ok, replace the sender. I have seen oil pump inlet screens plug up causing low oil pressure as well.

I have to be honest, the idle issue is most likely the idle air control valve (IAC) or a vacuum leak. If the idle was really low, the I would say the IAC and the oil light could be related. However, that isn't the case. Tell me, do you hear any ticking or knocking from the engine when the light flickers? The engine has a lot of miles on it, but if it has been maintained, it should be okay. If there is no noise from the engine, my guess is the sensor, as you mentioned.

The only way to be 100% sure is to check the oil pressure using a mechanical gauge. Most parts stores will lend you one. Basically, you remove the electric pressure sensor and screw in the mechanical gauge. That way you will know what the actual pressure is at idle and when the light would normally flicker. As I mentioned, since there is no noise from the engine, I agree with you that it is most likely a sensor issue. But to be sure, you need to check the actual pressure.

Let me know if I can help in any way.

Joe

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. You should be able to get it from under the vehicle. If you have access to a lift, it would make life MUCH easier.

If you say the engine is knocking, then it might have had a low/no oil condition, causing bearing damage. Tearing down the engine is the only real way to see the extent of the damage. The stalling, will need to have the PCM scanned first for trouble codes, this may lead us in the right direction for a fix on that problem

Switch on left front engine when out check pressure with mechanical gague