Fuel injector not working?

Hi,

Power is supplied to the injectors via fuse 21 in the vehicle fuse box. Ground is supplied via the ECM. What I think has happened is you have lost ground to the ECM. If you look at the attached pics, you will see where power is supplied to the injectors and where the ground for each individual injector is provided at the ECM.

Next, note the ground locations and splices involved with the ECM. Since you just replaced the engine, confirm the ground to the intake is in good condition and not damaged. I have a feeling it may have been damaged or not reconnected, which is an easy thing to do when replacing the entire engine.

Here are a few links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If you find the ground locations to be good, then you will need to check the ECM to see if it providing a ground to the injectors. If not, then it most likely is bad.

Do this and let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Check fuse #21 (on the left side of dash). This fuse protects the injectors so if it is bad, no voltage will reach the injectors.

Also check the wiring harness from the camshaft sensor (that is the distributor) and the MASS airflow sensor, they provide the signal to the computer (ECM) to determine injector pulse width (operation).

To check the operation of the Camshaft Sensor/Distributor, check to see if a spark is getting to the spark plugs.

The computer controls the ground side of the injector and fuse 21(10amp) is the power side. They are probably using the cam sensor to time them when to fire them. Is there a problem you are having?

Turn ignition OFF. Disconnect PCM harness connector. Check for continuity between the PCM connector terminal and the appropriate injector harness connector terminal. Since you have 12v (on the BLK/RED wire(s) to the injectors, be sure to check the ground wires of the injectors for continuity). If continuity does not exists, repair the open or short in the wire between the PCM and injector harness connector. Repeat this process on each “PCM to injector circuit.”
Also check that the ground wires (black, approx. 14 � 16 gauge) on the intake manifold at clean and tight.
If all is OK, suspect a Faulty ECM (also referred to as the PCM or ECCS).

Hi Michael,

Here is a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself, also I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning. Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

When you put your key in the ignition and turn the key on does your security light go off or does it keep blinking or stay on?

Even if you crank the car does it still stay on?

Well, either way it sounds like you have a security issue. Your going to have to take it to the either 1)a shop that has an OE tool or 2)the dealer.

The LaunchX431 tool is not that bad from what I've heard. I've used it a couple times(maninly for Euro cars), but not Nissan immobolizer. Wouldn't hurt to try I guess. The Consult II is what you really need.

I'm kind of curious if you pulled any codes or if you lost a key and the one you got is not coded to the immobilizer.