Misfire Code

Hello,

The oxygen sensor codes are normal when the engine is misfiring I would do a tune up using OEM parts here are two guides to help you to see whats going on.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-tune-up-a-car-engine

Please run down these guides and report back.

There is no code for an ecm on the type of scanner you have. A misfire can be caused by many things. It can be any sensor in the engine causing this. Things you can check are fuel pressure with a gauge-auto parts rent it and vacuum leak otherwise leave it to a pro with a different style scanner that can do a lot of other tests/things yours can't do. It willsave you money in the long run

You may be running on 5 cylinders! When the MIL is flashing, it means catalytic converter could be damaged by the defect causing the MIL to flash, get the codes read and it will point you to the cause, could be an injector, or COP if yours has individual coils. Or bad plugs/wires.

Clear the code

Follow #3 wire, is it touching anything?

Inspect the places it may be touching for small, faint, gray arcing spots

Completely swap #3 wire with another wire

See if the code moves to that cylinder or if everything is good
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Here's sorta what i'm basing my theory on

Maybe your problem is much like my niece's was

Well, my niece drug her '03 6 cyl. Mustang in here the other evening (well now, a few months ago)--been skipping and mostly shaking for a while.

My family's female philosophy: drive it till it won't go no more!

They sorta figured it was the plugs, but upon popping the hood while it was running, it sorta appeared to be having a really faint "light show" going on under there.

We replaced the plugs (as they had 'em on hand), as it had been time to do so long ago. This was not the problem though

But the light show was three different plug wires had rubbed "under hood stuff" until they were arcing on the metal components they touched one was on the hot manifold

The all time award winner was the one that was rubbing on the brake booster---it was gnawed a third of the way thru!

It was pretty obvious that whoever installed the old wires did not use much tlc, was in a hurry, thought nuthin' about future happenings

This time we installed new--lifetime warranty wires and routed the wires so they could not flop around.

I used wire ties and I purchased a few feet of 3/8 fuel line, I cut the fuel line into various lengths--split them and covered portions of the wires, every place a wire did rub/ or could rub/ or touch anything. The fuel line is a bit more durable than using plastic wire looms

That was the fix for her!

I'll stick with my jeeps

Hope this helps

The medic

Checkfor a vacuum leak like a hose off, leak at tbi something like that. If not that then have a pro diagnose it because these will drive you crazy trying to find out what it is.

Depends on what is causing the misfire; that is compression loss, lack of spark or lack of fuel. Possible spark plug, or wire, fuel injector problem, intake leak are the first to come to mind.

Are you getting any oil or coolant leaking into the spark plug holes? I assume this has a Coil on plug system, right? They offered both in that year.

You could have a burned out coil driver in the computer but you will need an electrical tech to do some testing to find out.

Check your fuel pressure that can cause this as well. If it still does and your fuel pressure is ok then have your injectors checked.

Check for a vacuum leak near that cylinder. Fuel pressure should be 35-45 if not that then it's to low. Check plugs for a piece of junk in between the electrodes and check compression. Spray choke cleaener around intake at cyl if it smooths out then that may be your problem also check the egr for staying open as well. It can also be torque converter clutch shudder especially if it stops when you accelerate or decelerate. If it is go to a trans shop they will have to change a switch or see if you have a sticking valve in trans.