Knocking sound and***** motion

Tiny
SEBASTIAN_PERSONAL
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 DODGE INTREPID
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
I have a 2000 dode intrepid 2.7 litter. It has 174k. C ok uple days ago I was so low in oil. Before I replace a new oil, there was clicking sound when I started the vehicle. I took it to the shop and have them do a oil change. Now the clicking sound disappear. But after warming up the car the clicking sound comes back. Now also it does a***** motion once a while and the enjine light came on. I just change the camshaft or crankshaft sensor on the vehicle. Please help. Thanks
Thursday, March 17th, 2011 AT 7:16 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
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  • 77 POSTS
I mean******** motion
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Thursday, March 17th, 2011 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
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This engine is picky about its oil so there could be internal damage from running it low. Also, when the Check Engine light turns on, there will be at least one diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer. That code will lead you to the circuit or system with the problem, not necessarily the defective part. Many auto parts stores will read those codes for you for free.
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Friday, March 18th, 2011 AT 2:16 AM
Tiny
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Thank you for the response.
I'm sorry there are some star note above.
What I meant to asked is that the motor start to hesitate in motion mainly when I press the gas and the car has been runing for a while. When I just start the motor and go somewhere usually doesn't do anything only after its runing and the enjine is in the hot temperature.

Also I took the car to autozone and have them check the enjine light and they said it's reading (missfire). They told me you can try to check the coil on the plug or (ignition plug) since I recently change the sparkplug. I'm not sure what the product exactly called, but I baught a tester or diagnostic from auto zone. It has a negative and positive wire that came with it. They told me to test it and it should read around 12. My problem is I don't know how to use it. It didn't came with an instruction.
I don't even know where to turn the switch to and what note and number to pin point the **** to.
My last question is, do I need to take out the coil on the plug out of the enjine or do I need to leave it there and turn the ignition on to test it? I uploaded the photo that I want to test out.

Thanks much for the help.
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Friday, March 18th, 2011 AT 3:24 AM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
  • 33,916 POSTS
What I think they want you to do is measure the resistance to see if it's partially shorted but this is going to be very inaccurate. Put the meter on the the lowest Ohm's scale. If they use symbols, it's the symbol shown below. Use the X1 scale. That means whatever you read is the actual value. When you put the two meter leads together the reading should be real close to "0". You're actually measuring the resistance of those leads which could be two or three ohms. Next, put the probes on the two little terminals in the connector then see what it's reading. The specification is 0.4 to 0.6 ohms which is too low to measure accurately. A better test, if you had a certain cylinder misfire code, is to switch that coil with a different one, then see if the fault code indicates a different cylinder. If it does, replace that coil. If the same cylinder has the misfire, it has to be the injector, spark plug, or one of the valves. There could also be worn piston rings. That will cause the Engine Computer to detect a misfire due to the lack of power from that cylinder but you won't feel it in the car. A compression test will identify the weak cylinder.
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Friday, March 18th, 2011 AT 4:51 AM

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