heater stopped working?

Feel the heater hoses when the engine is warmed up. They should be too hot to hold onto for very long. If they are not, suspect a plugged heater core. If they are, suspect a problem with an actuator on the heater box. This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-heater-not-working


Please run down this guide and report back.

I have went out , and took of the rad cap, let it run for a little bit, but still blowing cold air. The gauge was crawling to fast I think. But if there is girggleing sounds, what does that mean, do you know?

There is no sweating or any odurs, or sweatting on the windows.

my rad is throwing up, when I had it running, what does that mean?

Have your mechanic perform a chemical test at the radiator to check for a leaking cylinder head gasket. That involves drawing air, while the engine is running, through a glass cylinder with two chambers partially-filled with a special dark blue liquid. If combustion gases are present, the liquid will turn bright yellow.

hello; there is nothing like that.

Nothing like what? Are you referring to the tester? Every shop has them. Every auto parts store has them to buy or borrow but if you borrow it, they will make you buy your own bottle of liquid because it can be contaminated and won't work for the next guy. Many mechanics own their own testers. They get used almost every day.

No, I'm referring to the one where you said is there any leaks or different colors.

You mean the chemical test was done and came up as no leaking head gasket? If so, dandy. Everything else points to the coolant level just being low. If it is, you can add a small bottle of dye to the coolant, then search later with a black light. The dye will show up as a bright yellow stain that you can follow back to the source. Even though the chemical test came up negative, still check for the dye inside the tail pipe. That also indicates a leaking head gasket, even when no combustion gases are getting pushed into the cooling system.

ok thank you.

I've been hearing bubbling in my radiator reservoir for a few months. I thought nothing of it at the only because it was summer time. Now its closing in on winter and when I try to use my heater it only blows cold air. The temperature gauge is not all the way on high but it is past the middle.after about half hour of driving maybe van will the heater push out a little bit of warm air.my engine is a 2.4 liter non turbo. And my engine coolant looks like chocolate or dark brown

witht eh color of the coolant you probably have a blown head gasket. fill cooant system an dhave pressure checked but i'm sure it will verify the problem that is also why you don't have h eat your coolant is low.

No noticed fluid leaks. Past and recent history. Had starter work done within last week or so. My car would start but kept blowing fuses right after starting. Got that problem taken care of. This morning driving my car the heater was working great.
This evening the heater only blew cold air. My gauge kept moving more toward hot.. But did not reach the hot mark until real close to home. What could this be?

[quote:6ab8f52707="tome"]Heater problem
1998 Dodge Stratus V6 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 80,000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
No noticed fluid leaks. Past and recent history. Had starter work done within last week or so. My car would start but kept blowing fuses right after starting. Got that problelm taken care of. This morining driving my car the heater was working great.
This evening the heater only blew cold air. My gauge kept moving more toward hot.. But did not reach the hot mark until real close to home. What could this be?[/quote:6ab8f52707]




The car was blowing fuses because of the starter. We have seen that many times on that model. As for the heat you need to let the car cool down and check the antifreeze and add as needed the coolant level low.

found a nest inside the blower side of the heater core removed it changed thermostat and heater control resistor but still heat for one second when heater is turned on then cool air also noticed the a/c compressor does not engage when a c button is lit up any ideas??

also checked blend door function and that was ok

core may be clogged with debris. flush it out with a garden hose and flush it both ways till it is clear and even flow. if not, the core may have to be replaced.

Roy

We changed the thermostac, flushed the heater core and changed the temp gauge, and yet my heat is verry little to none. i used to have heat than one day no heat and now very little or no heat again..... whats wrong???

Did you change the temp gauge or the sending unit? Also re-check the new thermostat. Make sure that it is not sticking open.

Also make sure that your coolant reservoir is full.

I'm having a problem with the front vents no air or heat coming out of them but the defrost is working . I think it my be the actuator. I'm not sure where it is located on my car. Any help would be great.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

The component that determines air flow directions is called a mode door actuator. It sounds like that is where the problem is with your vehicle. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-vents-stay-in-the-defrost-position

If that seems to mirror what you are experiencing, then we need to replace the mode door actuator. The mode door actuator is located on the lower left side of the A/C-Heater housing. This actuator controls the position of the panel/bi-level door and the floor/defrost door. Here are the directions for replacement. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.

_____________________________

MODE DOOR ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT
Fig 9 Mode Door Motor Location

Pic 1

NOTE: If battery voltage is low or not sensed at the actuator/motor for less than a (60) second interval, the actuator/motor will be out of calibration. Remove the M1 (I.O.D.) fuse for a minimum of (60) seconds. The actuator/motor will then self calibrate itself upon reinstallation of fuse.

The mode door actuator is an electric motor. It mechanically positions the A/C unit panel/bi-level door and the floor/defrost door. Prior to part replacement, re-calibration of the HVAC actuator is recommended. Calibration is performed by disconnecting the battery negative cable or the removal of the instrument panel M-1 fuse. Electrical power should be re-established after (60) seconds which will automatically initiate the software calibration procedure. If this procedure fails, it will be necessary to replace the mode door actuator/motor. The mode door actuator/motor is not serviceable and must be replaced if found to be defective.

The mode door actuator is located on the upper left side of the A/C-Heater housing.

Fig 10 Mode Motor Connector

pic 2


REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove left underpanel silencer/duct.
3. Remove electrical connection on actuator.
4. Remove actuator retaining screws. Then pull actuator straight down. Upon removal, note the shaft position of the actuator, because the shaft on this motor is keyed. When installing new actuator, its shaft must be positioned in the same location.

INSTALLATION
For installation, reverse the above procedures.

___________________________________________________________

Let me know if that helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

1997 dodge stratus heater does not blow hot air.

engine does not over heat

First be sure the coolant reservoir is at least half full. If it is not, check to see if the radiator is full.

Is the temperature gauge reading normally or lower than normal? If it is low and the coolant is full, suspect a thermostat that is sticking open.

Next, feel the two heater hoses after the engine has warmed up. They should be too hot to hold onto for very long. If they are cool, suspect a plugged heater core. That can usually be back-flushed with a garden hose.

If the hoses are hot, but you're still getting cold air, suspect a problem with the doors in the heater box, an actuator, or the heater controller.

The temp gauge will heat up normally. After it gets to about 220 ( I am guessing) it lowers back to the normal position and then I have heat. Today, temp gauge showed normal with no heat in the cabin.

Check these two items, Thermostat, and heater core. Try warming the Vehicle, then carefully feel the heater hoses, are they both hot? If one is cooler than the other, You need to flush the core, or a replacement job on the heater core. Also if the system has a heat control valve on the heater hose, make sure it is working!