98 Sable Engine Quit at 45mph/can restart 2hrs later?

Hi CJ Medevac,
Thanks a lot for this quick response. When my engine is off but the key is "keyed" (on). The check eng. Light is lit up along with some others but when the engine starts they all dis-engage from luminous. Not sure what the 'crank shaft position-er' is. Or where it is located but am looking for a shop manual site so as to get more familiar with the new info folks are so kindly giving to me. I'll go to the auto store ( for sure ) tomorrow and see what comes up.
The car has runs perfectly since that singular event (about 20 miles in 3 trips) but am as nervous as I can get as I have a must do --- 400 mile - get there on time or :( else. In 3 weeks from today. So again, Thank you. 650 BSA

Hey CJ,
Just followed your "link". WOW. Thank you again. Looks like you put me on the right trail. Very impressed and got to say it again. Thanks.
650BSA

Thanks CJ,

BTW : BSA : Boy Scouts?. No
**British Side Arms** : an English weapons and motor vehicle manufacturer.
Amongst the products, they made the BSA motorcycle. They
went out of business in 1972. I bought my "thunderbolt" in
68. New for @ $1208.00 U.S. And I still have it!. And it still roars up . On first kick! . Yeh, turns heads today . To see an 'olde guy' do the 'kick start'. Tee-hee
. Mean time . Thank you again. Following your
helpful links and. Feels like I'm not too old to learn some new "tricks".
650BSA

Good Morning!
I checked with AutoZone and two 'trusted' mechanic (referrals by neighbors).
AutoZ says they don't do extensive diagnostics. Could check out 'check eng. Light' -- if it were on + engine running.
Mechanics (both) say without a "check engine light" on while running,
there will be NO CODES or info to guide them. They say the
Sable would need to be disabled again and they would need to
check it over then. In addition, one said the older cars do not have extended memory storage of "events" . As can be found in newer 'improved diagnostic computers' of today's autos.
He also said the fuel filter would be his #1 as it should be a regular maintenance renewal item (@30K miles--49.5K now with original). And CSP a good candidate too. Further, he said. It is hit / or miss / and so on with problems where the " component fails under stress " and apparently "re-sets after
a cool down or rest period."

Found the filter under the right rear door. Looks very simple to replace.
Can't find the. Crankshaft-Position-Sensor? Watched the video
and checked around starter but the old eyes aren't seeing it?
Will start a new search for videos after this post.
Check back here later. Thanks . 650BSA

CJ,
Just saw a video where a guy tried to test the CPS with a
hammer! Cute. He gets the engine running after a 'rest'. Then he give the Sensor a little tap with the hammer and bingo, engine stops. Then a little wiggle and it's o.K. Again.
Brought back memories of jury rigging throttle linkage on a VW bus so as to get out of the Chesapeake Bay tunnel / or later doing a video of the over haul of our Caddy V6 in front of our old residence -- piece by piece -- label and record, label and record. Etc --- and now days Humph, can't even locate a part on the engine.
Hey I think you r right on! With having the CPS on-board.
I'm "good to go" on that.
Thanks once more for your "over the top" help. 650BSA

Hey CJ,
Guess what? Got the fuel filter replaced. Some real ugly tan to brownish gas in it. New air filters, oil, oil filter and the Crankshaft Pos. Sensor installed. :( . That's right. In the wrong location!

Turns out that upper right front is the Camshaft Position Sensor. 98 Sable LS premium w/ Duratec Engine a 3L 6cyc, DOHC 24valve, engine code : S.
The CKS is on the left (as you face engine) in the rear toward the fire-wall and low. Down by the crankshaft and just under and in front of the Alternator. [ Apparently the CKS and the CMS use the same sensor. So I didn't hurt anything when I put the new item in the CMS. And what a simple nice local that is. And so here is a kick. The CKS is blocked at the very last 1/2 inch of removal by "the Alternator". Best to reach by jacking up front passenger side, removing front tire and then the plastic alternator splash shield. And there it is.
Switch out the CMS (new) back to the old and go ahead with CKP removal. When oh-oh. The lower rear alternator bolt housing extension will not allow the full removal. Tried every which way and am now (temporary) put back together while searching as best (easiest way) to get the alternator to move out of the way 1/2 inch. It looks like a removal may be only answer. Boo-Hoo.

I'm toying with a "trick". :)
Grind, ( very slowly and carefully) a few levels of the alternator bolt housing extension [ which is the area blocking an easy removal ]. The housing is aluminum and the extension is very thick and looks as though a "dental graind" of "just the right amount and no more . Could do the trick.

The engine ran with seemingly more power and so smoothly and quietly we couldn't tell if it was on or had stopped without checking the dash gauges.

Thought you might enjoy (get a kick) out of this report.
Best regards, ________________ 650BSA

Hi CJ MEDEVAC and any others who may be checking this out.

The "Soap" continues with our hero giving up on the grind reduction of the alternator housing. Too much needed to be cut out. Stopped @ 1/3 way seeing the futility of it. :(

But did find a simple and somewhat 'easy' way to get the sensor out without full removal of the alternator or belt removal. Loosen all three retaining bolts but leave them in!. With care, pull the alternator out SLOWLY. The long bolt in the lower fire-wall side will come out and you may need to help in that. The Alternator will pull itself to the front (of the car) and up. This is the belts' tension effect. Now jiggle the alternator enough to give room to slide the Crankshaft sensor out. Prepare the new sensor with dab of oil around gasket and electric grease in the connector (optional). Slip it in. Now with the aid of a persuader (leverage bar) jockey the Alternator into position and carefully reinstall the bolts taking care as to not strip the threads or the Aluminum (soft) housing. You may need 'four hands' to do this easily. I did it with two. But am "on order" for two more. Plus arms. :)

*** If you ever remove the alternator I would take that opportunity to cut away the section of housing that blocks the Crankshaft sensor removal. Replace the cut out section with a (now removable) hollow dowel. O that will just drop out when removing that. ONE rear bolt past it.

*** A follow up to the mistaken replacement of the Camshaft sensor with the new Crankshaft sensor. THEY ARE NOT THE SAME ! But the engine ran perfectly. And more quietly than ever before. Replaced the old Cam shaft sensor too. ( That is the one found on the left upper engine just below the plastic wire harness near the front.)

Gas mileage has showed 15% improvement with more power and quicker response to gas pedal. I think it is done

and with many thanks to the help and direction of THE MEDIC !
Best regards, and 'thank you'. 650BSA