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97 Honda Accord LX stalls

Tiny
506LEE506
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 HONDA ACCORD
  • 175,000 MILES
My 97 honda accord lx manual 4 cyl would stall when I put it into gear and gave it gas. I replaced my ignition switch. It wasnt that. I unplugged my neutral safety switch and plugged it back in. And swapped main fuel relay, now it wont start. Any ideas?
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Sunday, July 10th, 2011 AT 1:09 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
If its cranking over and will not start-Do below to determine if its a fuel or spark issue

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine atleast 3/16 away from ground-have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if okay-check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing
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Sunday, July 10th, 2011 AT 1:17 AM
Tiny
506LEE506
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
So I bought another accord 97 lx same year same model but one is auto one is manual are the throttle bodys easily interchangeable? Would I need to buy anything to do so because even before the car stopped starting yesterday when I would run it would sit and idle no problem but as soon as u put a load on the pedal or like drive ahead or reverse at all the car stalls and it is making some pretty crazy noises sometimes when trying to start (popping and bucking) and also you have to turn the key off all the way wait like 5 seconds then retry and sometimes still takes a few trys
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Sunday, July 10th, 2011 AT 3:07 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
The throttle body does not affect the non starting. You still need to test what is missing as outlined by Rasmataz.

Interchangint the throttle body is not too difficult but any work on the bypass hoses has to be done with care as they tends to leak if they are hardened and might require replacement.
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Sunday, July 10th, 2011 AT 9:23 AM
Tiny
506LEE506
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Ok so it will start now and idle but as I said previously. Yet I am still facing the fact that it is continuing to stall as soon as I tr to drive it is the manual one the auto works fine.

So the manual one- starts idles but stalls when I try and drive and other times aswell it just keeps failing-ive tryed main relay, igniter, distrib, new ignition switch any ideas as I dont believe it is my fuel pump where the car will idle and I can send the revs up to 7 grand without any issue but she just refuses to drive
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Sunday, July 10th, 2011 AT 3:28 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
What is the idling speed?
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Sunday, July 10th, 2011 AT 4:09 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
You sure the clutch is not slipping? At 7K rpm it should move-Check and test the throttle position and intake air temperature sensors-
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Sunday, July 10th, 2011 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
506LEE506
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
It idles between 900 and 1100 it is idleing fine and it will move and stuff like that its not the clutch what I meant bout hit the high revs was wit the clutch in just so everyone knows that it shouldnt be my fuel pump if its capable of putting out high revs without dieing and will sometimes drive but never far only feet down the road then she starts boggin down and if u even tryn like put ur clutch in n keep the revs up to shift up or down she still dies and even like if it dies n im like up to say 60 or 70 or so n I drop it into second to c if even bump start will get it goin it still just sputters bucks n dies I have a whole running driveable parts car so if u have any ideas shoot trhem my way cause I am in midst of swapping part after part to try n get this manual running again as the auto is the one that does work but is in terrible shape and an auto on top on that big thumbs down for me as everytihng I ever ownd has been manual
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Wednesday, July 13th, 2011 AT 2:10 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Try swapping the distributor, symptom indicates a possible fault with the ignition coil.

Mark the distributor position before tking them out so you can get them back in position without too much difference in ignition timing.
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Wednesday, July 13th, 2011 AT 2:16 PM

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