engine turns over but wont start?

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

You have a timing chain in this vehicle. It would make a metalic sound if broken and most likely cause the engine to freeze up because it would drop against the crank pulley and get tangled.

A fuse wouldn't cause the noise. Is the noise coming from under the hood? Have you checked to see if there is spark and fuel to the engine? How many miles are on the vehicle?

Here is a picture of the timing chain

A little over a year ago, started having intermittent starting problems. usually on cold damp days when car was cold (never a problem restarting if car was warm) but not always. Car would crank but engine would not turn over. Battery power was good. Could often get the car to start after a few attempts. But on five to six occasions, it wouldn't start. I would leave the car sitting for a few days some times and then it would start. I replaced the fuel pump (didn't fix it); check compression (good); spark is good. Changed gas to higher octane and did an Italian tune up. The other day, the idle pulley seized. I replaced it with a new pulley and serpentine belt. Since then, in spite of several cold, damp mornings, the car starts every time without hesitation. While I never heard the belt slip, is there anything about changing the belt and pulley that could make a difference? Probably jinxing myself as I write this, too. Thanks!

My guess would be that since the pulley was seizing mostly when cold because when the metal was cold is had contracted, therefore hard for the pulley to spin. When it was warm the metal was more expanded allowing more movement. Just a guess from the info you have provided.

I have a 97 ford explorer 4.0 185,000 Vin code E overhead cam version engine was replaced at 100,000 on a recall by Ford brand new bullet....drove it down to get mail Monday came back parked now it won't start. Fuel is at half a tank, on level ground,
have pressure at the schrader valve, sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body won't fire....replaced the coil still won't fire...checked 25 amp fuse 19 in side panel and 60 amp ignition fuse in box under hood on drivers side...both are good....battery at 12.2 volts and harness coming to coil has 11.9 volts on posts 1 and 4 with the key on but nothing in 2 and 3...pulled a wire off of the coil and does not seem to be getting any fire....replaced fuel filter about a year ago when similar problem arose but I got it to fire with the starter fluid then....all other accessories work...lights blinkers cdplayer power windows door wipers blower motor ac.....so I don't know if it could be computer related..unless the signal coming to the coil is messed up....any help would be most appreciated..or I may have overlooked another fuse somewhere or something up on the intake...replaced the thermostat about three weeks ago and had the top plastic cover off of the throttle body assy but dont know of any other things I could have left unplugged under there..not that much to unhook to replace the thermostat.......thanks Jeff

You didn't say if you are getting a spark. If no spark, then try replacing the PCM power relay. It is next to fuse #19. You should be able to switch the relay with another relay in the box. I have had 2 of these relays fail in my Explorer.

good luck

Yes you were correct I am not getting any spark will try your suggestion then post back..thanks Jeff

swapped the a/c - fuel pump - pcm relays with each other still no spark. wonder if it could be the pcm diode right beside it?

the fuse 19 i checked was inside the drivers door panel on the left side of the dash 25 amp for ignition circuit fuse was fine and the 60 amp under the cover where the three pcm's are was also ok

Pulled top cover off of throttle body...nothing up there seems to be unhooked so that would just about eliminate that question checked everything around the map sensor tubes hoses electrical connections they all seem fine...alternator wires are fine and tight...

some times all a guy needs to totally fix a problem is a well placed grenade...haha....not there yet, but it is paid for......Jeff

if it turns over but no start and no spark...is the Batt wire on the coil live? if not try a jumper wire to pos post. if it runs the ignition switch is faulty.

tried everything mentioned...even checked fuel pump reset switch up under passengers side kick panel...no reset needed...unhooked the positive wire on the battery for an hour to see if the thing might reset and clear the bug...still no luck.....have no idea what this could be...about ready to start piecing it out...if I can't get it to fire soon....anybody got any other ideas.../?????thanks Jeff

Camshaft position sensor...Crankshaft sensor

My son's Explorer ran out of fuel. We put 2 gallons in the tank, but it won't restart on repeated attempts. On other cars, after a few seconds of engaging the starter, it will fire off. Want to know if it is something simple that can be taken care of without having the vehicle towed.

wanted to know what problem was am having same problem? (BROCKEXPLORER)i just posted under 1997 ford explorerer

I hope your problem is not the same as ours - we had it towed in Monday, and worst fears were realized - broken front timing chain and probable slipped rear timing chain. Ballpark price to fix - $2500. Needless to say, my son is now looking for a new car.

Couldn't get fire to fuel pump so put in new fuel pump. Motor started earlier.

Here is a diagnostic walk through that will by process of elimination help you diagnose your problem. It is a very good toll.
Just follow this link;

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

My !997 Ford Explorer will not go into Park. I have to Start my Explorer in the Nutreal gear. Some people of my family thinks its frozen up inside the tranmission and others think I need to get look at. I have no Idea were to start.

do you mean you cant physically put the lever in park or that the vehicle does not engage park(vehicle still rolls) when you do put lever there? or it just wont start in park? if it wont start in park with that mileage it is most likely the neutral safety switch located on transmission gear selection shaft. this is outside the transmission.

No I can't put the Lever into Park. I have start the vechile in Neutral. It was in park when I start the vechile this morning and I went to grocery store and when I came out I couldn't start me vechile. As I was trying to figure out what maybe be wrong My father told me that I sould be able start the vechile Neutral gear. So I did so and it start, but I can't get my Lever Shifter to engage park. My father said it maybe something that got lose in transmisson. I just don't know so I was trying find someone that now the Explorers better then I or my father.

Jeremy

My daughters 1997 Explorer cranks but will not start. The battery was run down attemping to start it. I bought a new battery and the next day the same thing happened. I also replaced the alternator since the new battery was run down due to continued attempts to try and start it. Yesterday I was told to remove the IAC valve and clean it with carb cleaner. I replaced it after cleaning and the truck still didn't start. I checked to see that fuel was present via the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and some gas did squirt out. I'm out of things to try and don't want to get ripped off by taking it to a Ford dealer. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

[quote:14c5029eed="Mike Martzig"]Engine Mechanical problem
1997 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic 95000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
My daughters 1997 Explorer cranks but will not start. The battery was run down attemping to start it. I bought a new battery and the next day the same thing happened. I also replaced the alternator since the new battery was run down due to continued attempts to try and start it. Yesterday I was told to remove the IAC valve and clean it with carb cleaner. I replaced it after cleaning and the truck still didn't start. I checked to see that fuel was present via the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and some gas did squirt out. I'm out of things to try and don't want to get ripped off by taking it to a Ford dealer. Any help will be greatly appreciated.[/quote:14c5029eed]

Hello,

Ok, you done the first thing check for fuel, so now did you check to see if you have Spark? If you can check fuel pressure. If need fuel pressure tester some parts stores or a tool rental store should have one.

Well, I would ask if the Check Engine Light was on but, since Battery was replaced codes were cleared and would have turned engine light off.

Did this Guy ever find out y his car would not start?? I have one of the same 97 explore. Cranks but wont start..when I finally do get it to start it will start right up again after being turned off again butt if I wwait say an hour or more I have trouble starting it up again.. I've replaced batety with brand new one.. nope not it.. replaced altanadtor with a rebuilt one.. now my battery light is on so I took it to auto zone who said my altanator was bad. So I take it BK to altanator place they show me on two different machines its good .. and tell me its a fuse under the hood. They replace it light went off and it drunk...started and I go home only to get home and look to see fuse is blower again I Called altanator place who then had me disconnected wire in altanator to bypass fuse and well guess what ... nope... might I ask if its against the law to set ur own car on fire ... '''joke ''' but I'm at my whits end here..could this be my starter... fuel pump.. if ne one has ne idea please tell me...

1997 Ford Explorer 164K Fuel injection. This problem has been going on for a couple of months. Starting in the morning is no problem. After driving and engine is warm I can start it right back up if left under 30 min. But after that 7 out of 10 times it wont start. It will crank but not turn over. Very occasionally it will try to catch. If I leave it for an hour it will usually start back up or over night. Repair shop tested the fuel pressure and spark said it was ok. They decided it was the inertia switch and replaced it. Worked for 2 days then the problem was back. Obviously not the problem Any ideas? To reiterate problem occurs only when hot and around 30-45 mins after engine has been shut off.

Sure sounds like the fuel pressure is bleeding off.Need to have them do a bleed down test on the pump.At that mileage, I wouldnt be at all surprised if it needed a fuel pump. Any codes in the PCM?

[quote:59cfe81050="2CarPro Jack"]Sure sounds like the fuel pressure is bleeding off.Need to have them do a bleed down test on the pump.At that mileage, I wouldnt be at all surprised if it needed a fuel pump. Any codes in the PCM?[/quote:59cfe81050]

No codes in the PCM(Was replaced and new engine 5 mo ago),can you tell me if there are any gaskets orings between the fuel pump and the injector manifold thst might be leaking and not allowing the fuel pressure to build high enough to open the injectors when hot/

The fuel pressure regulator , the pump or an injector are the only places the fuel pressure can bleed of at besides an external leak that you would have smelled by now. Pull the vacuum line off at the regulator to see if it has any fuel in it, if so replace the regulator

Electrical problem
1997 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

i hv just bought a 97 expl'. very cheap from dealer trade in . but it was a repo no keys ok'" had a key made from off the door it cranks the engine over but dont start all other components work you hear it click no fire to plugs is it a ecm problem or a key chip problem i dont want to put a lot of money in it yet ; it might hv bad motor ; cant find out till i get spark can you help please dean

You can start by checking the basics. Check for spark while cranking. Check for fuel pressure. This will narrow down the problem to a more specific area.

If you suspect a key chip problem, you can take the VIN to a Ford dealer, and they can tell you if this vehicle uses a transponder key. If so, they can also look up the codes and cut and program a new key for you.

If you find that you only need an ordinary key, then it is back to the basics. Let me know what you find, and I can point you in a direction that will help you to solve the problem.

ok thnks im at work today body shop 'i unscrewed the column an removed the swithch we had another column with a factory key in it it fits but is thier someother thing have to do or a way to buy pass it on the column we bought for a truck we didnt use has a tag with 8 numbers on it that is atached to key from the salvage yard '''' does it have to be programed in the ecm ???/

IF the car needs a transponder key, you can have it programmed at a dealer. Unfortunately, the machine need to program "chip keys" is expensive, so not many places have them.

First, be sure of what you need. If the car takes an ordinary key, and not a "chip key", then your problem is in the ingition or fuel circuits.

Wont start. No fire to plugs. Checked fuses and wires. No engine light on or coming on. Where should I go next?

It sounds like the ignition module. Do you have the COP system??

Not sure...COP system??

Coil on plug. Each plug has it's own coil on top of the plug

No, it does not have COP. Do you still think ignition module?

It is the most common spark failure on Fords. I am not there to do some pin out testing but if all fuses are good and you have injector pulse then the module is your best bet. Good luck

Thanks for the advice. I'm sure I have injector pulse so I will go with ignition module and see what happens. I appreciate your time on this. Thank You


Mike B.

Lee, I'm being told that there is no ignition module for this year and that Ford stopped using these mid 90's. A dealer told this to me. Is he right and now where do I look??

He is right. CRS came upon me as the 97 is a stand alone system. It is EECV computer. Is it a V-6 or V-8??

The signal is developed in the crank and cam sensors and sent to the ECM. It in turn processes a signal to the coil packs to fire the coil packs and on to the right spark plugs. Have you tried to get the computer codes to see if you have set one. From my info the crank sensor is the highest failure item. Sorry for the confusion. Let me know