Engine is stalling out while driving

It sounds like you have a fuel pulp going out but to sure this guide can help us find the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

I replaced the alternator with a used one about 5 months ago and had a new battery put in at the same time.Yes the check engine light is on.I thought that was due to the transmission.I can take them to get checked.When the engine shifts down is when it tries to die or does die.The speedometer drops down before it does.Sometimes I can put it in Neutral and press on gas then I put it back in drive and it will catch.

I would really check that alternator since you put a used one in there thats a wild card.Test all those things and get me the exact code numbers you have.

Okay no problem.I'll get back to you soon. Thank you for your quick response and help.

Your welcome keep me posted.

This vehicle just shut off going down the road. fuel pumps working, starter works, put new coil. getting fire to coil but no fire to spark plugs. what is going on?

Good evening,

When you crank the engine does the tachometer move up a little? That will tell me if the crank sensor is working.

Did you check the compression?

Can you hear the fuel pump run?

Roy

The engine does fine but quits every now and then. Some times a lot and some time it will drive for a few miles just fine. My catalitc converter is shot but I think maybe I have a fuel module or simular problem. The service engine light came on over a year ago but I am in bankruptcy and am disabled and cant afford to get it fixed.

A plugged converter will cause a power loss and the engine to die. Also, if the check engine light is on, you need to determine what code is stored in the computer. What I would suggest is this. Take the van to a nationally recognized parts store and have them scan the computer. Most do it for free. Once you find out what codes are stored, let me know.

Joe

My 1997 Dodge Sport Caravan with 151,000 miles, stalls repeatedly when it is cold out, when you are slowing down, whether on the highway or at stop light/sign or when going under 10 mph in traffic or when slowing down to turn a corner. The engine will also occasionally race or buck forward, usually while traveling at around 45 mph. I have had it serviced by a local mechanic for many years and they are unable to locate the problem. It's had a tune up, the timing has been checked, the Cam Sensor and Crank Sensor have been replaced and then retested using a computer - no code came up to reveal an error. In addition, the gas tank has been flushed out and the fuel line, and fuel pump replaced. The car drove in a 24 hour period ok, but then started stalling again. The mechanic believes something is touching the crank sensor which they have replaced twice. They noticed after installing the crank sensor that after driving it, instead of the 30,000 of inch gap, there was a larger gap which suggested something was touching the crank sensor. I have had the computer replaced twice so I am not interested in replacing it again. Any thoughts?

Have the fuel pressure check this will rule out a bad pressure regulator, fuel pump,fuel filter,and in tank sock.

check the EGR for carbon and proper operation.

Last test the ASD relay

After running AC for 5 minutes or more the engine shuts off...after apox. 30 minutes the engine will re-start. Problem only occurs when running AC-Temp guage reads normal, all other electrical system functions work normally, only the engine will not work. It cranks but will not catch. Any directions or ideas greatly appreciated.

Jeff

Ok I need you make the car stall again by using the A/C and then when it stalls shut it off and pull the auto shut down relay it is in the underhood relay fuse box. Now using a digital multi meter check ohms of resistance between term 85 and 86 should be between 70 and 80 ohm. It this is not in range then replace it if it is good here then we will do an operations test on it. Let me know what you find. Here is a pic to you know what term is what.

I have a 97 Dodge Caravan, 83,000 miles, that had an engine tune-up and transmission rebuilt within the last year and a half. 3 months ago, the car started stalling every once in awhile, sometimes while stopped and sometimes while driving at low speeds, and the engine cut out once in awhile. The problems have gotten progressively worse. Now, the engine has a really hard time staying in gear, especially on the highway and the vehicle stalls all the time. Today, the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. The engine always urns when starting the car up or immediately after it stalls, but I have to press the accelerator for a minute or two in order to get it to start running. It seems like the car has a hard time staying running and staying in gear. Can you offer any advice?

thanks in advance!

The first thing I need you to do is have the computer scanned. If the check engine light is on, there is a trouble code stored in the computer that will help point us in the right direction.

Most parts stores will scan it for free, so have that done and let me know what you find.

Joe

I had the computer scanned and a lot of codes printed out. The "Service Engine Soon" light came on 2 days ago, although the car has been having this problem for months. The codes say: "Man. absolute pressure/BARO or MAF(Mass Air Low) Sensor condition". The 2nd code says "Vacuum hose off, cracked or passage blocked-Engine mechanical timing condition". 3rd code "Throttle body intake tube loose, off, or cracked". 4th code "BARO (barometer)/MAP defective". 5th code "VAF (van Air flow) MAF (mass air flow) sensor dirty or defective". The man at the part store said that I would most likely need a new MAP Sensor and/or new Idle Air Control Valve.

What do you think?

The MAP sounds like it is one of the problems. As far as the MAF, I would clean it first. They make a special cleaner for it. The IAC can cause the engine to die, but usually causes an unstable idle.

A while back, me and my buddies decided on removing the whole dashboard to paint it. When putting it back together, I started noticing that certain lights would turn on. After a while, they would turn off. The van ran well regardless. Later on, the van would stop running. It would ignite normal and then the motor would just turn off. I notice when this happens, the odometer and the gear indicator (both are digital) would not function. After banging on the dashboard a couple of times, the odometer and the gear indicator would turn on and the van would then start normal. Other times, this would occur during driving. All warning lights would turn on while the fuel indicator, odometer, tachometer, speedometer, etc. would stop working. What could be the problem?

Did he remove the body control module when he did this?

From what I understand, no. The only thing removed was the instrument cluster in order to paint the cover of the gauges

It sounds like he left something loose. Have you checked all connections? Also, check for body grounds that may have been left off.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

the car turns on sometimes. it satays on about 20 minutes to half an hour then dies. then when i go to turn the key to turn the engine on the car just stalls.

Have you checked fuel pump pressure? Has the check engine light come on?

Let me know.
Joe

Hi, I have a 97 Caravan that for some time would (for the lack of better words) seem like it was lurching when you would cruise at highway speeds. I went to the local parts store and had them run a code and it implied i needed to change the Throttle positioning sensor. I did this and the problem went away for a while, but now it is back and it even added another symptom. The van stalled on my wife a few times going up the parking garage and at a few stop lights. I took it to a local shop and they are saying it is the transmission going out. Would the transmission going out cause the van to stall? is there anything i can do to save this vehicle that wont cost me an arm and leg?

I am sorry you are having trouble.
After all, a 14 year old van with 140,000 miles should not have such failures.
The stalling may indeed have something to do with this. It depends. When was the last trans service? I think it is supposed to be done at about 3 years or 36,000 miles. It should not have failed, or if it had a problem, you think you may have seen something then.
Also the throttle body, it is a recommended service at about the same time to remove the dirt from the sensors and give it a clean idle, also a fuel injection service would clean the system and injectors also. But even though I am sure you have serviced it well, or hopefully the owner before you did, these failures have occured anyway, if you like the van , it may be worth repairing but have the mechanic make sure it is worth putting a couple of thousand dollars into a transmission overhaul. The engine or some other expensive part like the fuel pump may also need replacement soon.
Good luck. It is rare for the transmission to cause it to stall. But it can happen.

1997 Dodge Caravan

What causes the van to vapor lock up after 50 or so miles? If we wait awhile it would start up and run alittle while. It only does it in the hot summer. what do you think is wrong with it ?

Low fuel pressure have it checked

How and where would I Locate for low fuel pressure
on my Dodge Caravan . Is it by the fuel pump? Iam a woman and have no ideal how to test it for fuel pressure. what do you suggest? i do ? I'm sorry its a 1994 year model Dodge Caravan.

Van stopped running we were told it was spark plugs and wires. We were able to change all but one plug. Engine starts now but while driving it starts to stall and hitting the gas won't make it pick up speed. While it's idling, the engine sounds like it's running hard and the headlights go dim. Once we get to about 45 mph that's when it will start to slow down by itself and sometimes the engine will just cut off. The one spark plug in the back is impossible to reach, we changed the wire but could that be the problem?

If it is the one the back close to the passenger side, then yes. It is your #1 spark plug. The PCM uses #1 spark plug for timing, fuel delivery and a whole lot of other stuff. If that plug is bad, the whole motor won't run smoothly.

Also, you have OBD-II compliant PCM. Take it doen to Autozone or Checker O'Reilly and have them scan the computer. COme back with the fault code(s).

Yes it is the one back close to the passenger side. For some reason my husband can't get it off. He's tried different tools, took the windshield wiper part off but he still can't get to it. Any suggestions?

And thank you so much for your input :-)

I have a 97 Grand Caravan ES with a 3.8l V6. The check engine light is on with a P1495 code. The code tripeed when the van stalls. It will stall at random times, AC/ or not , at any speed. When it stalls it will not communicate with the PCM at all. So I turn the key and will get nothing except lights on the dash. No engine, no starter, nothing. Then after a few minutes or hours it will start and drive perfectly.

Parts changed:
Purge Solenoid
Cam Sensor
Crank Sensor

Have you checked the wiring harness to the PCM to make sure it is clean and tight?

I have re seated the PCM wiring harnes and cleared the code. But I did not see tht the harnes was loose. i will monitor. I also noticed that the Smog check guy sold my wife a new gas cap that sits VERY tightly. I am wondering if this could cause the intermittent stalling as this was the only thing different on the car. Can a gas cap fitting too tightly cause this type of stalling? What about Throttle position sensor or the Map Sensor? Oh, by the way I also noticed a crack in the exhaust manifold. Can this cause a stall?

Thank you for all the help. I am trying to do as much as I can without spending a whole lot of money.

Of the items you listed, the only things that would cause a stall is the map sensor or throttle position sensor. As far as the gas cap, if it leaks fumes, that won't have an affect on the engine.

Thank you for your knowledge. Since I cleared the code and have only driven the van locally, we have yet to duplicate the stall with no communication to anything.

Of the two possibilities, Map sensor and Throttle Position Sensor, which would most likely casue the stall, eliminate communication to the PCM for a while and throw the P1495 leak detection pump solenoid circuit trouble code. My thought was to try the TPS first then Map Sensor, but would like to hear your thoughts. As to the more likely culprit.

Thank you.

I have to be honest. Neither would shut down communication to the PCM. As far as the stall, both can do it. The TPS is more likely to cause a problem when you touch the throttle. At an idle, the vehicle should go into a default mode and continue running. As far as the MAP, it could shut the engine at any throttle position.

That is interesting...Now I am stumped. I will change the sensor, but I think that maybe I have a separate issue with regards to the communication between the Brain and the car. So the van stalls, fine... What would cause the lack of communication? Bad PCM? Bad ECM? Is it possible that the PCM/ECM is causing the stall and giving a false sensor error?

Engine starts and idols OK but with normal acceleration it "pops" or "chokes" out. It can however be driven with a very delicate increase in acceleration to get over the rough spot.

A code check of the computer puts up an O2 sensor #2. Could this be the problem? This problem materialized out of nowhere. Turned of the car after an average around town trip and it wouldn't start. Seemed to be fireing but wouldn't start. We trhen bypassed the air filter(disconnected the air filter and let full air be ingested) and it seemed to start easier. But still has the acceleration issue. Tried spraying throttle body cleaner in the Plenium, no change.

I am told it could be the map sensor or the part on the plenium? (throttle body module)

hook a fuel pressure guage to it; start the van; release the fuel into a container; does the van try to die?