A/C sensor

"High" in this case means 5 or 12 volts as in an open circuit. It's been too long; I can't remember which. That code could set if you disconnected the sensor while the ignition switch was turned on.

Based on information from our database, the fault code is for ATC mode door stall failure.

TEST 10A - ATC MODE DOOR FEEDBACK OR STALL FAILURE

1. Locate BCM behind right kick panel. Turn ignition off and connect DRB. Turn ignition on and engine off. Using DRB voltmeter, backprobe BCM 5-volt supply circuit Black connector terminal No. 6 (Pink/Dark Blue wire). If voltage is less than 10 volts, go to next step. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, repair Pink/Dark Blue wire for short to battery voltage. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

2. If voltage is less than 4 volts, go to next step. If voltage is greater than 4 volts and less than 10 volts, go to step 6).

3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect BCM connectors, located above right kick panel. Using DRB ohmmeter, probe BCM Black connector terminal No. 6 (Pink/Dark Blue wire). If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground on Pink/Dark Blue wire. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

4. Using external ohmmeter, measure resistance between BCM Bone connector terminal No. 15 (Gray/Tan wire) and BCM Black connector terminal No. 6 (Pink/Dark Blue wire). If resistance is less than 2000 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is greater than 2000 ohms, replace BCM. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

5. Disconnect blend door actuator, located to left of A/C-heater unit. Using external ohmmeter, measure resistance between BCM Bone connector terminal No. 15 (Gray/Tan wire) and BCM Black connector terminal No. 6 (Pink/Dark Blue wire). If resistance is less than 2000 ohms, replace mode door actuator. Perform VERIFICATION TEST. If resistance is greater than 2000 ohms, replace mode door actuator. Perform VERIFICATION TEST. See Fig. 3.

6. Using DRB voltmeter, backprobe HVAC plenum 10-pin connector terminal No. 6 (Pink/Dark Blue wire), located near top center of A/C-heater unit. See Fig. 3. If voltage is greater than 4 volts, go to next step. If voltage is less than 4 volts, repair open Pink/Dark Blue wire between HVAC plenum 10-pin connector and BCM Black connector. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

7. Using DRB voltmeter, backprobe BCM Gray connector terminal No. 4 (Red wire), located above right kick panel. If voltage is 0.3-10.0 volts, go to step 11). If voltage is less than 0.3 volt, go to next step. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, repair short to battery voltage in Red wire. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

8. Using DRB voltmeter, backprobe HVAC plenum 10-pin connector terminal No. 7 (Red wire). If voltage is less than 0.3 volt, go to next step. If voltage is 0.3 volt or greater, repair open Red wire between BCM Gray connector and HVAC plenum 10-pin connector. Perform
VERIFICATION TEST.

9. Turn ignition off. Disconnect HVAC plenum 10-pin connector and BCM Gray connector. Inspect connectors and clean or repair as necessary. Using DRB ohmmeter, probe BCM Black connector terminal No. 4 (Red wire). If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Red wire. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step.

10. Check mode air door travel. Remove mode air door actuator, and rotate door shaft in both directions. Ensure door moves smoothly and stops at both ends of its travel. Repair or replace linkage and/or mode air door as necessary. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

11. Turn ignition off and close all doors. Ensure courtesy lights are off. Wait one minute. Using DRB ohmmeter, backprobe BCM Bone connector terminal No. 15 (Gray/Tan wire). If resistance is less than 60 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is greater than 60 ohms, repair open Gray/Tan wire between BCM Bone connector terminal No. 15 and HVAC plenum 10-pin connector terminal No. 5.

12. Ensure BCM connectors are connected. Turn ignition on and engine off. Using DRB voltmeter, backprobe BCM Black connector terminal No. 22 (Dark Blue/White wire). Turn recirculation switch off. Turn panel switch on. Turn recirculation switch on, and observe voltage change. If voltage becomes greater than 10 volts, go to next step. If voltage remains less than 10 volts, replace BCM. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

13. Using external voltmeter, backprobe HVAC plenum 10-pin connector terminal No. 2 (Dark Green/Yellow wire). Set panel switch, then defrost switch and then bi-level switch to ON position, and observe voltage change. If voltage increases to more than 10 volts, go to step 15). If voltage remains less than 10 volts, go to next step.

14. Ensure BCM connectors are connected. Turn ignition on and engine off. Using external voltmeter, backprobe BCM Black connector terminal No. 16 (Dark Green/Yellow wire). Set panel switch, then defrost switch and then bi-level switch to ON position, and observe voltage change. If voltage increases to more than 10 volts, repair open Dark Green/Yellow wire between BCM Black connector and HVAC plenum connector. Perform VERIFICATION TEST. If voltage remains less than 10 volts, replace BCM. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

15. Turn ignition off. Disconnect BCM Black connector. Disconnect HVAC plenum 10-pin connector. Check connectors and clean and/or repair as necessary. Using external ohmmeter, measure resistance in Dark Blue/White wire between BCM Black connector terminal No. 22 and HVAC plenum 10-pin connector terminal No. 1. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open Dark Blue/White wire between BCM Black connector and HVAC plenum connector. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

16. Check mode air door travel. Remove mode air door actuator, and rotate door shaft in both directions. Ensure door moves smoothly and stops at both ends of its travel. Repair or replace linkage and/or blend air door as necessary. Perform VERIFICATION TEST.

Thanks KHLow2008. I don't remember finding the Body Control Module behind the kick panel. If it's not there, remove the glove box insert and look to the right of the opening to see if it's shoe-horned in there.

If you get to a step where it says to replace the BCM, you can use any one from a salvage yard if your car has the factory installed anti-theft system. If the used computer was from a car without it, it will learn that programming from the Engine Computer when you turn on the ignition switch. If your car doesn't have that system, you must find a used BCM from a car that didn't have it also, and that can be near impossible to determine. If you install a used BCM or Engine Computer with anti-theft programming, it will teach it to the other computer, then the engine will not start because both computers are waiting for the disarm signal that's never coming. At that point you have to replace both computers at the same time with ones without anti-theft programming. Once they self-upgrade, that programming can't be undone.

Gonna have to put that in my memory banks. We had an Intrepid donated to my community college Automotive program by Chrysler. It had a weird serial number because it was one of the test cars used to fine tune a new assembly line. That car was listed as a '94 but whenever I needed parts to break for the kids to diagnose, we ended up ordering parts for a '95, including a new Body Computer. That one was to the right of the glove box. Most likely in that respect it really was a '94. Either that or the Intrepid and New Yorker were different. One thing I CAN tell you is it was a lot easier getting your computer out than the one we had wedged in the dash.