It needs a trans, no doubt about that.
OTE: The transaxle and converter are removed as an assembly.
Disconnect battery cables.
Disconnect transaxle shift control and throttle cables from transaxle and position aside.
Remove upper and lower oil cooler hoses.
Support engine with suitable support fixture or engine lifting equipment.
Remove three upper bellhousing bolts.
Remove hub castle locks, nuts and cotter pins.
Raise and support vehicle, then remove front wheels.
Remove left splash shield.
Remove speedometer adapter, cable and pinion as an assembly.
Remove sway bar and both lower ball joint to steering knuckle bolts.
Pry lower ball joint from steering knuckle, and remove driveshaft from hub.
Remove both driveshafts, supporting both joints at housing.
Remove dust cover if equipped, mark position of driveplate on torque converter and remove torque converter retaining bolts.
Remove access plug in right splash shield to rotate engine.
Disconnect neutral/park safety switch wire, then remove engine mount bracket from front crossmember.
Remove front engine mount insulator through bolt and bellhousing bolts.
Support transaxle with a suitable jack.
Remove left engine mount and long through bolt.
Remove starter.
Remove lower bellhousing bolts.
Move transaxle away from engine and lower from vehicle. It may be necessary to pry transaxle away from vehicle between the extension housing and engine block for clearance.
Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
Torque transaxle-to-engine bolts to 70 lb-ft.
Torque starter attaching bolts to 40 lb-ft.
Torque flex plate-to-torque converter bolts to 55 lb-ft.
Torque bellhousing cover bolts to 105 lb-in.
Fill transaxle to specifications with suitable lubricant, then adjust shift and throttle cables.
Make sure you completely flush the trans cooler or you will ruin the replacement trans
Roy
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Friday, January 25th, 2013 AT 12:36 PM