Why wont it quit dinging!

First thing is to see if it's really the door ajar that's causing it or something else. Do the interior lights and dash lights work? Open each door, one at a time, and push the button to see if the dinging stops.

Of course the doors are closed. That's not the issue. You have to open one door at a time then physically push the switch closed to see if the dinging stops. If it does, I'll describe how to readjust that switch. If none of them make the dinging stop, then we have to move on to less common causes.

Dandy. There's two different styles shown for that year. Does your switch look like this one from Rock Auto?

Wonderful. This is going to sound complicated but it's really pretty easy to fix. The switch is self-adjusting and it has become over-adjusted. See all those ribs on the body, (red bracket)? You'll notice your switch is only showing half of them or less. Use a flat blade screwdriver under the round mount, (blue arrows), to pop the switch out. Unplug the connector. Tie a knot in the wires or put a kink in 'em so the plug doesn't fall inside the car. If it does, you'll have to pull the trim panel apart to retrieve it.

To move the body in the mount is just hard enough that you can't do it by hand. I use a deep well socket, about a 3/4" or 13/16" as I recall, and set the mount on it, (blue arrows), with the connector end sticking up. The red o-ring end will be inside the socket. Use a small hammer, wrench, or block of wood to hit the connector end. That will move the switch body out on the mount. Reconnect the wiring and pop the switch back in the door pillar. It will feel loose until it adjusts, and it will readjust to the correct setting when you close the door.

To give it a little extra insurance it will stay there, I used to add a small dab of silicone gasket sealer around the first few ribs, THEN close the door for the first time. When it adjusts, that sealant will go inside and set up where it will make it harder for the switch to over-adjust if someone slams the door too many times.

I don't see your user name in my list of unanswered questions so it appears someone else has that one handled.

What is the question of which you speak? Maybe I'll know the answer. If not, I can make something up!

I DID see that question earlier but the only thing I can help with is the starter circuit. Do you understand basic electrical theory, know how to wire a switch, and just need to know where to connect it, or do you need a more in-depth explanation?

This page will explain how the Ford starter circuits work:

http://randysrepairshop.net/ford-1960s---1990s-operation.html

and this page explains how to test them:

http://randysrepairshop.net/ford-1960s---1990s-starter-system-tests.html

The test procedure in the second paragraph on the second page is what you want to do but instead of a jumper wire, you want to put a switch there. The red wire I mention can also be found inside the truck because it's the one coming right off the ignition switch. Under the hood they usually have a blue stripe on the wire. Can't say that for sure under the dash because I haven't worked on that many Fords. The other switch terminal goes to something that is always on. There will be at least one wire like that going up to the ignition switch, or you can usually find something to tap into in the fuse box.

You would have to add a second switch for the ignition system, what you referred to as the kill switch. There's going to be other switched circuits that may use entirely different ignition switch contacts and you'll need another switch for that circuit, or a double-pole switch. (That's like two built into one). You can prove this by the fact the radio plays in the "Accessory" position but the engine won't run. Power windows, heater fan, wiper motor, and things like that are powered through the ignition switch. Some work in the accessory position and some don't, so you know there has to be at least two different circuits.

Your Acclaim is a good example that I'm much more familiar with. The ignition switch can develop overheated contacts, especially when people use the heater fan on the highest speed a lot. That high current overheats the switch contacts and if it gets bad enough that entire circuit will go dead. That includes the radio, power windows, and the heater fan, but the engine will continue running just fine because it's on a different circuit in the ignition switch.

I can think of a way to wreck the steering wheel lock but I would never do it on my cars for liability reasons. If it ever caught and locked the steering while driving there could be a disaster and a lawsuit. I have a much better idea though. Head to one of the pick-your-own-parts salvage yards and get a different steering column and just do the swap. You'll get a good lock cylinder but just be sure to get one with the keys still in the truck. Usually they get lost.

If you're anywhere between Ohio and southern Georgia, there's a nice chain of yards called "Pull-A-Part". You pay your buck, throw your toolbox in one of their wheel barrows, and you can spend all day there. Parts are REAL inexpensive, customers and employees are very friendly, and the yards are extremely clean and well-organized. You can do an internet search of all their sites to see which ones have vehicles like yours. The only thing they can't tell you is colors, optional equipment, and what has already been removed. They have about two dozen yards; I've been to 16 of them and found little trinkets for my '88 Grand Caravan daily driver and my 'stored '93 Dynasty. Even found some spare parts for my '80 Volare.

They list a steering column without tilt for less than 26 bucks with a warranty and $20.10 without a warranty. This is just a partial list. Tilt columns aren't listed. You'll spend more than that on a switch heavy enough to handle the current for the starter circuit and the gas to go get it.