1992 Chrysler Lebaron Dash/Radio/Dome

Also check the glove box lamp, trunk lamp, under-hood lamp, power mirrors, vanity mirror lamps, and halo lamp, (clear plastic ring around the ignition switch. If all of those things are dead check fuse number 2, a red 10 amp. If the fuse is good, use a test light or voltmeter to check for voltage on that fuse. You can probe on the two tiny holes in the top of the fuse.

If voltage is missing there, check the operation of the rear window defogger. If that is dead too, suspect a burned open fuse link wire. That's a 20 gauge orange wire in the harness by the left strut tower. Tug on all of those fuse links. The ones that act like a wire are good. Look for one that acts like a rubber band indicating it's burned open.

It takes a lot to burn those fuse links open. You might want to clip in a 15 amp fuse to see if it pops before you go through the work of soldering in a new link.

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The links DO look like a mess. There's no tape around the harness and they have tie straps around them. Instructions for replacing one is in the service manual. You are to bare the insulation on the feed side (fat wire) and wrap the new wire around it and solder it, then splice the other end to wire the link feeds.

Instead, if you can find the burned spot, you can splice the ends of the link together there. The remaining sections will act as the fuse link. The wire is nothing special. It is just a smaller diameter than the circuit it feeds so it is the weak link in the chain. The insulation is what is special. It will not burn or melt.

When the problem acts up again, measure the voltage on fuse 2. That in effect splits the circuit in half. What you find there will tell us where to look next.

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