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1990 Nissan Stanza wheres the HEAT :)

Tiny
MELANY
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 NISSAN STANZA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,134 MILES
Hi.I have a 1990 Nissan Stanza I solved the "lifter" issue by doing like you said and changing the oil and adding Marvels Mysery Oil minimal noise now so thanx for that info but now I'm freezing my a$$ off I was told by the person who I bought the car from that the blwer might of been unplugged when they installed the stereo? Ok so the blower fuses are fine I dont know if there are any where the engine is at because the writing on the fuse boxes are worn so IS there a relay fuse for the blower or should I rip out the stereo and look for something unplugged? PLEASE help I am tired of getting a cold from being cold :) WHAT am I looking for behind stereo. Thanx
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 8:37 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Before removing the stereo, check to make sure there is power to the blower motor itself. (Note: I am assuming the issue is the fan isn't blowing air). If there is power to it, the motor is bad. If there is no power, then you need to trace the wiring back to where the power is lost.
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 1:22 PM
Tiny
MELANY
  • MEMBER
  • 10 POSTS
Yes when I go to turn on the heat there is no fan on so how would I check if the blower is getting power? I checked the fuse panel by drivers seat and that was fine but how would I know if the blower is getting power at all? Thanx
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 8:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
What you need to do is locate the blower motor. I believe yours is under the dash on the passanger side. There is a power supply to the motor that has a plug where the fan motor plugs in. Disconnect that plug and with a test light or volt meter, turn the fan on and see if there is power to the power supply side of the wiring. If you have a volt meter, you should see different voltages going to the motor based on what speed you set the fan motor to. If you have a test light, it will get brighter the faster you would expect the fan to run. Basically, dim on low, brighter on medium, bright on high. If there is power there, then chances are the motor itself is bad. If there is no power, then you need to trace the wiring back to the resister, relay, switch, power supply (fuse)and so on until you locate where the power stops. Once you locate where the power starts and then stops, you will have located the bad component or break in the wiring.

It sounds difficult, but the worst part is going to be getting to the blower motor itself.
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 10:56 PM

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