Stalls while driving

If the Check Engine light has turned on there will be a diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer but . That will lead to the circuit with the problem. The crankshaft position sensor is the more common suspect but there is also a camshaft position sensor.

Here is a guide to show you what you are in for when doing the job and the location below for your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement


Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Caradiodoc

After setting for a day it will crank and run fine for several days. Please describe what to look for in the procedure you talked about and what it would indicate needs replacing?

First check for diagnostic fault codes. When the Check Engine light turns on there WILL be at least one code in memory. When the light did not turn on, as in your case, there still COULD be codes. Not all codes result in the light turning on.

Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds. Shortly after the Check Engine light goes off it will start to flash out two-digit codes. The first one will usually be one flash, a short pause, then two flashes, then a longer pause before the next one starts. Code 12 just means the ignition switch was turned off and can be disregarded. The last one will be code 55 which can also be disregarded. It's the codes in the middle that are important.

Here is a guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks

caradiodoc

Hi Frank!

I had this problem and the crankshaft sensor fixed it FYI did you try that?

I have a 1990 3.3 fuel injected chrysler new yorker that was running fine then all of a sudden would turn over and start for 3-4 seconds then die. Will stay started as long as you spray starting fluid but stops when you stop spraying. Fuel pump is good, changed fuel filter, is getting spark, changed fuel regulator, has correct fuel pressure, all relays and fuses are good, cleaned up and changed head gaskets & manifold gaskets. Tried to hook up to a scope (to get codes) but when hooked scope to car scope was getting no power (battery has been taken out several times to be recharged from trying to restart so many times, so don't know if the codes are still stored). If trying to start to many times car gets flooded. There was gas in the spark plugs and cylinders which was removed. Can someone please help with this problem? So frustrated.

It's in theft mode. Unlock the front doors with the key or key fob if it has remote keyless entry. If your car does not have factory anti-theft system, a voltage spike has confused a computer into thinking it is on the car, and it self-programmed itself to need the disarm signal. Either the Body Computer or the Engine Computer can do this and, (this is important), one computer will teach it to the other one. This upgrade programming can not be undone. BOTH computers must be replaced at the same time. If you find used ones in the salvage yards, they must both come from cars that didn't have the factory anti-theft system. (The two old computers will work fine in a different car that does have the factory anti-theft system).

If you install just the Engine Computer first, as soon as you turn on the ignition switch, it will learn the anti-theft programming from the Body Computer. Next when you put the new Body Computer in, it will be upgraded by the Engine Computer when you turn on the ignition switch. You absolutely must install both computers at the same time before you turn on the ignition switch, and they must both not be programmed for the security system.

Remember, that only applies if your car didn't come with the factory anti-theft system. If it is on your car, it isn't disarming and you should see the yellow "Theft System" light flashing on the left side of the dash. Failure to disarm could be caused by a disconnected link between the switch and the lock cylinder in the door. It should disarm from the passenger front door too. Another possible cause is broken and frayed wires in the harness between the door hinges.

None of the parts listed will cause this problem. You will never solve a running problem on a Chrysler car by replacing the fuel filter, a high-mileage fuel pump might fail to start, but it will rarely stop once it's running. Regulator problems are real common on GM cars and trucks but never on a Chrysler.

No idea how to get diagnostic fault codes with a scope. Chrysler's method is WAY easier than any other brand of car. Just sit in the seat and cycle the ignition switch three times in five seconds.

One thing you should be aware of; every time you disconnect the battery, engine data is lost from the Engine Computer's memory. The engine will not idle without stalling until you relearn minimum throttle. It is also normal for engine speed to go to around 1500 rpm at startup, then drop to a normal 800 rpm within two to three seconds. Failure to do this "idle flare-up" is another indication minimum throttle must be releaned. To do that, drive at highway speed with the engine wamed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals. Once you do that, the computer will know when it must be in control of idle speed.

caradiodoc

Thanks. That's exactly what was wrong. As soon as I changed both computers (from pick -N-pull) it right away started up!

My New Yorker stalls, usually when I am slowing down. Sometimes when I`ve only driven it a few minutes, or sometimes when I`ve gone several miles. Below is the work that has been done on it recently:
1. Replaced battery
2. Diagnostic check of the engine tested well.
3. Replaced fuel pump, as the pressure was at 42 psi and the specs said it should be 50.
3. Replaced fuel filter
4. Replaced air filter
Please help !!!
Thanks.'.

Stop at item number one. Simple cause; simple fix.

Whenever the battery is disconnected or run dead, the Engine Computer loses its mind. It must relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when to be in control of idle speed. Reprogramming the computer is extremely difficult. To meet the conditions the computer looks for to do the relearn procedure, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals. That's it.

As a point of interst, you did not need a new pump or filter. 99 percent of pumps that fail do not start up. Once running, they will continue to run. Fuel pressure is determined by the regulator on the engine's fuel rail. The regulator has a vacuum hose attached so it can change pressure according to load on the engine. When coasting, manifold vacuum goes way up. That vacuum is pulling fuel out of the injectors and because it's pulling much harder, there would be an excessively rich mixture. Fuel pressure is pushing fuel through the injectors. Since vacuum is pulling harder during coasting, fuel pressure goes down to offset the extra force on the fuel. If the engine was running, the pump was working.

To test the pumps capacity to develop pressure, it must be tested with the vacuum hose pulled off the regulator and plugged. The specs mean the pump should be capable of 50 psi, but it wont run at that pressure most of the time. GM cars and trucks have a lot of running issues with low pressure from worn pumps. That's almost unheard of on a Chrysler product.

Other than the diesel trucks, you will never solve a running problem by replacing a fuel filter on a Chrysler product. It's fine for a maintenance thing, but it will never solve a problem. Related to that lower fuel pressure during coasting, since the regulator offers less restriction to the extra fuel that just goes back into the tank, more fuel flows through it during coasting. The lowest volume of fuel flows through the filter during hard acceleration, so a plugged filter would show up when coasting, when the engine hardly needs any fuel.

caradiodoc

every time we get in to drive the car, weather it be within two minutes or two hours the engine will randomly shut off, never while in the gas but when we slow down to stop or turn a corner is when it shuts off. so far i have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, all six injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, and checked the mass air flow and TPS sensor. and i am all tapped out. Any help would be very much appreciated.

try cleaning throttle plate on both sides and IAC hole with choke cleaner as they get gummy and cause TPS to not move correctly. scan for codes and check fuel pressure first.

Hi LUEDEEN VENABLE,

If you decide you would like to scan for codes as HMAC suggested in his post here is a link to an article that features written step by step instructions and pictures explaining how to do the scan yourself. Also, I have included a link to our YouTube channel with a how to video on code scanning.

This is applicable even if your check engine light is not on.

Most scanners are inexpensive to purchase, you can purchase one online from sites like Amazon.com

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Once you have the codes please get back to us so that we can further assist you. We are always happy to help.

Thank you for visiting 2CarPros.com.

Kindest regards,

Renee
Admin

Replaced fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and computer. Car still will not stay running! Please help!

If you think it is fuel issue, Use a gage and check fuel pressure. Some of the national brand autostores used to loan out a fuel pressure gage. Any applicable mil codes? How long since a tune-up?