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1989 Nissan Vanette funny type of cranking

Tiny
THEKULL78
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 NISSAN VANETTE
  • 1.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 160,000 MILES
Changed out two starter motors after they started smelling burnt. Got a new one. New battery.I have good spark, 3/4 full carburetor float bowl (view window) of fuel. The van normally made full strong brisk crank overs. Out of the blue it now made like a half of a crank and jams off. Over and over. So it hardly gives a brisk long full rotational crank to get it started. The new starter motor is getting really hot and seems to be melting a wire everytime I try to crank the engine at times it will make about two full rotation in cranks and then the carb will cough or make a blow back sound of which a mist of fuel will come out. Today it cranked fully but only with the manual choke pulled and it started. Then when it stalled. It went back to the same half of cranking type of issue. Really frustrated plz help. It sounds like this car in this video

www. Youtube. Com/watch?V=uDtA2gd3IN0
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Saturday, May 17th, 2014 AT 5:49 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
First remove the spark plugs. Turn it over and see if any water shoots out of the spark plug holes. It sounds like compression is blowing the fuel out of the carburetor. Which means the valves IN the head are not fully closing. You'll need to remove the valve cover and check the valve operation. They should all go down and return back the same way as you turn the motor over. Start here
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Saturday, May 17th, 2014 AT 7:37 PM
Tiny
THEKULL78
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Ok cadieman. Thanks for assisting. Now this is where im at I took out plugs and cranked the engine, it cranked briskly all rockers and valves moved as I cranked her over. There was no liquid squirting out of the sparkplug holes as I cranked except a good amount of air, I however noticed that the cam rockers are on some rods I think are push rods to get oil in the top of the engine but in the valve cover region its pretty much dryish even while cranking there wasnt any oil coming up in the valve cover area ( not sure if that is to happen ), now I started putting back each plug one by one starting at number 4 cylinder and cranked after every one I put back in, however I only got two in and at that point the same lazy hard to turn over cranking and jaming was back again. The thing is the vehicle had started a couple times a while back via cranking it may had made the jammed up sound a few times but it was over looked as wwhen we cranked again it wud crank and start now rolling or bump staring also used to work. Now it locks up and drags wen trying to do so. I recently did a compression test on the engine and it read 150 psi each cylinder so I had already ruled out bent valves and /or damaged rings as manufacture specs were any where between 131 and 170psi per cylinder. What next can I do plz this is really hard to cope with. Thanks again. Help
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Sunday, May 18th, 2014 AT 4:59 PM
Tiny
THEKULL78
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  • 5 POSTS
And yes the engine is oiled and dip stick reading at full
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Sunday, May 18th, 2014 AT 5:02 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
YOU TUBE SAID NO VIDEO FOR THAT # PLEASE CHECK IT.I NEED TO SEE IT TO HELP YOU. IT COULD BE THE TIMING CAUSING THIS PROBLEM ALSO.
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Monday, May 19th, 2014 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
THEKULL78
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDtA2gd3IN0

can you coppy this and paste this in your search bar ...and hit enter let me know if it works.....this is exactly wat the van is doing to a point it will not even make an attempt to crank .

thanks much again
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Monday, May 19th, 2014 AT 8:22 PM
Tiny
THEKULL78
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Regarding the compression test the maintenance manual say minimum is 141. Standard is 181 I got 150 psi dry comp test I didnt do any wet. Plus I cant find a workshop manual for that engine so I can take it down and if I have to rebuild it. Ill need guid lines as ive never timed an engine that doesnt have a cam gear set up like corollas etc. This engine is an A15 engine with push rods and rockers. Im tryna restore the vehicle.I had it towed to the shop im partially done with body work but I need to get it running effectively and efficiently I got till the end of this month to do so. Plz whatever you can do to assist plz do promptly
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Monday, May 19th, 2014 AT 8:42 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,544 POSTS
BEFORE WE SAY THE MOTOR IS BAD. YOU WILL NEED TO HAVE SOME1 CK. THE STARTING AMPERAGE. THEY NEED TO USE A VAT40 ( A STARTER AND BATTERY TESTER) WE WILL NEED TO FIND OUT THE CRANKING AMPERAGE. THE COMPRESSION SOUNDS WRIGHT. GET THE TEST DONE THEN WE WILL KNOW IF THE MOTOR IS CAUSING THIS. GOOD LUCK CRAIG A.K.A. CADIEMAN
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Tuesday, May 20th, 2014 AT 9:07 PM
Tiny
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  • MECHANIC
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STILL A NO GO ON THAT VIDEO. BRO
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Tuesday, May 20th, 2014 AT 9:15 PM
Tiny
THEKULL78
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Www. Youtube. Com/watch?V=uDtA2gd3IN0

ok try this one and let me know so far I havent gotten the tester to do the test on the amperage but ill see what I can do.

Question can a multimeter (digita) use to do the test given the battery and starter specs being known?
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Thursday, May 22nd, 2014 AT 4:30 PM
Tiny
CADIEMAN
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Now that I can see the video.1 use the meter to ck. To make sure your getting 12 volts to the starter why'll cranking.2 you will need to ck. The engine timing. Just hold your finger on #1 spark plug hole and tap the key until u feel compression. Then turn the engine using a socket on the crankshaft bolt. Put a straw in the plug hole. Then turn the crank until #1 piston is all the way up. Then u need to remove the distributer cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire on the cap. Start here bro
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Thursday, May 22nd, 2014 AT 9:09 PM

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