'85 CJ7 - Need help w/ Electrical, Not Starting (caused by me removing PO-installed alarm behind dash)

YOU'RE KILLING ME!!!

IS ALL OF THE EMISSIONS STUFF STILL HOOKED UP AND WORKING?

THE SMOKE REALLY CONCERNS ME....WAS IT INSIDE THE CLUSTER?

DO YOU HAVE THE DASH SNATCHED OUT NOW????

WIRING IS A NIGHTMARE EVEN WHEN I HAVE "HANDS ON"

I RECKON I'LL TRY TO HELP YOU!!!....I DO IT FOR EVERY CJ GUY THAT COMES ABOARD.....IF I CAN, AND IF THEY'LL PAY ATTENTION ! EXAMPLE IN THIS LINK....18 YEARS OLD AND A REAL TROOPER!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1982-jeep-cj7-ignition-problem-spark-distributor-cap

THE BIGGEST FACTOR:

DO YOU REALLY LOVE YOUR JEEP?

THE MEDIC

I ALSO WANT YOU TO PULL EVERY FUSE MAKE A NOTE OF ANY BLOWN FUSES AND WHICH CIRCUITS THEY ARE ON---AT THIS TIME DO NOT REPLACE THEM WITH NEW ONES

THE MEDIC

I L-O-V-E my Jeep. About to give you way too much info that's not relevant to the question so skip to the bottom if you are in a hurry. I've had it for over a decade. Used to live in Denver but when I moved to NY I had to leave it in a friend's garage. Two years ago I finally got the money to get it shipped to me. One NY winter later, the tub had rusted in spots and it spent months at the shop getting a fresh bottom put on. Then from Jan-March of this year it was at the shop getting a new paint job (matte black). Love and more love is all the CJ has been getting. But when I got our old gal back, the shop said the starter was blown along with the left turn signal and the wiper motor. And they even managed to break the seat belt. All of it was working when I brought her in. I got the parts in last week but they said they wouldn't have time to do anything for another two weeks. My eagerness to have working wipers, my lack of confidence in my local shop, and my false sense of confidence gained from reading too many Jeep Forum posts is what got me into this mess.


And to answer your other questions:
The dash is out now. It's hard for me to tell what is working aside from the lights because I can't get her to start ...

And yes the smoke was from inside the cluster, I believe.

I'm going to head over to read that link you sent me. But I have already read a few of your other CJ answer threads and I want you to know that they are what got me to join this site and donate money. I can't tell you how lucky I feel to have you on my side in this. I promise to post pictures if necessary and to be as good in the eyes and ears department as I can to make up for the lack of hands-on. Just point the way, boss.

Oh that's right I forgot to mention the fuses! The 10A ACC and the 3A ACC LPS were both blown. I can't say for how long ... Here's a photo of my fuse box. The green wire by the Fan HTR was attached to heated seats and I have since unplugged it.

Just reading your other link. Going to get some dielectric grease in the morning along with a voltmeter. My Jeep just passed safety in NY and won't have to pass emissions for another year or so. And it's 4 speed manual transmission and an AMC I4.

Here are some pictures:
1) A picture of her with her new paint.
2) Some pictures of the dash wiring as it stands now. It was a hope of mine that I could get under there, clean everything up and have the electricals looking shiny and new. I removed the old moldy glovebox (made of cardboard!?) and replaced all the old cloth tape. Was looking almost smooth-sailing for a second there ...
3) Last is the engine compartment. The solenoid, alternator, and starter were all replaced in the last 6 months. I'm sorry the pictures are a little dark. I can take better pictures tomorrow during the day.

POST A PIC OF THE ALARM---OR AT LEAST THE NAME AND MODEL #

MAYBE I CAN GET ONLINE AND FIND OUT WHAT IT HOOKED TO, AND MAYBE IT WAS CONNECTED UP AS TO "DISABLE" YOUR JEEP....WE MAY JUST NEED TO FIND WHAT NEEDS TO BE TIED BACK TOGETHER

THANKS FOR THE CONFIDENCE IN MY "NOT SO WELL PLANNED OUT"--"RUNNING ON AND ON SENTENCES"---"MEGA LACK OF PROPER PUNCTUATION"---"USE OF CAPS FULL TIME" (I THINK IT MAKES STUFF EZer TO READ, I WAS TOLD IT MAKE ME LOOK LIKE IMMA HOLLERIN' ALL OF THE TIME")-----WHAT?...ARE YE DEAF??? .........WHILE EXPLAINING TO OTHERS IN THAT SIGNATURE "CJ MEDEVAC WAY"

WIFEY GOT ME RUNNING WILD RIGHT NOW--I WILL POST AGAIN AS SOON AS I CAN, WITH MORE INFO

THE MEDIC

I discarded the old alarm before I realized there was a problem (stupid). No pictures will be coming on that one. Voltmeter on the battery reads 0.55 so I'm going to pick up a new one. Going to give it one more go with a new battery and then if it doesn't start will test the solenoid, etc. Will report back.

YOU WILL BE A MOST CHALLENGING POST!

IF THE SMOKE WAS INSIDE THE CLUSTER---MOST LIKELY YOU "FRIED" THE "CVR" INSIDE THE FUEL GAUGE...THIS THING WORKS SORTA LIKE A TRANSFORMER TO REDUCE THE VOLTAGE TO ABOUT 5-1/2 VOLTS TO OPERATE THE FUEL GAUGE AND TEMPERATURE GAUGE

WORST CASES ARE: NEITHER WILL WORK....OR NOT CORRECTLY....OR MAYBE THEY SURVIVED!......THIS IS AROUND A $40 FIX, THE GAUGES SHOULD BE REPLACED AS A SET.....THIS AIN'T REAL HARD TO DO, TAKING THE SPEEDO OUT OF AN "INSTALLED DASH" IS THE KILLER (YOURS IS OUT, AND EZ TO ACCESS)

IF YOU "POWERED UP" WITH THE DASH OUT, YOU MORE THAN LIKELY MADE THE GAUGE (WHOLE DASH) LOSE IT'S GROUND....THAT'LL DO IT!!!

OK---HERE'S WHAT WE NEED TO DO FOR NOW...WE'LL TACKLE THE SPEEDO AFTER WE GET HIM RUNNING!

I WANT YOU TO INSTALL 2 GROUNDS (ONE IS YOUR BACKUP, WHEN YOU ACCIDENTALLY SNATCH THE OTHER LOOSE)

LETS PUT STAKE-ON RINGS ON BOTH ENDS OF 2 WIRES ABOUT 2 FEET LONG

LETS INSTALL THESE TEMPORARY GROUNDS...OUT OF THE WAY....REMOVE SCREWS AND PUT THE RINGS UNDER THEM AND TIGHTEN. ON THE DASH, AND ON THE BODY/ COWL/ FLOOR....A GOOD GROUND!

I FOUND THAT ALLIGATOR CLIPS WORK JUST FINE...TILL YOU ACCIDENTALLY KNOCK 'EM LOOSE.......I FRIED MINE ONCE, SPEEDO IN MY HAND (TESTING BEFORE RE-INSTALL) THE OLE ALLIGATOR CLIP (TEMP GROUND WIRE) JUMPED OFF WITH MY KEY ON.....I SEEN THE EVIL SMOKE TOO!

THIS SET BACK.....DOES NOT KEEP THE JEEP FROM RUNNING....WE'LL DO IT LATER!

ANY CLUE ABOUT THE NAME OF THE ALARM?....WILL A WEB SEARCH MAYBE LET YOU RECOGNIZE IT?

DO YOU HAVE A MANUAL??????

PRESENTLY BREAKING FROM THE WIFEY'S FESTIVITIES---I MUST GO BACK NOW!.....ABOUT 20 BODIES IN MY HOUSE NOW

(YOU WILL GET TIRED OF ME!)

THE MEDIC

I've got the dash grounded to the tub twice as you said. New battery reads 12.65V but still doesn't attempt to start. Oh well. I'm familiar with the speedo replacement. I actually JUST replaced the speedo with A used one last week because my old one jumped around wildly. But my fuel gauge worked and the one from the "new" cluster didn't so I swapped it out. Won't be the end of the world to have to do it again. I just picked up a Haynes manual and a really great crimper. I'm ready to rock and roll. What's next?

Absolutely no clue about the alarm. None. I read the label once and then it slipped from my brain forever.

WANNA WAIT TO SEE HOW THEY WORK WHEN WE GET IT GOING????

THIS INFO WILL BE HERE A LONG TIME, SO YOU CAN GET BACK TO IT....IF NEED-BE!!!

I WAS GONNA THROW YOU A PIC OR TWO OF ME PUTTING THEM IN MY SPEEDO---I CAN'T SEEM TO LOCATE THEM

WE MAY BE ABLE TO TEST 'EM TOO---I HAVE THE INFO TO DO SO

THE MEDIC

I have a hookup in RI for used Jeep parts, I'll shoot him an email. I might be able to get a set for cheaper. But I drove without a working speedo for a long time, so I can wait to tackle that later as you said. Let's get this baby RUNNING first. None of those alarms look familiar to me, unfortunately ... I think we might have to go the hard way ... Here's a pic of my new temp grounds.

Here are some pics of the engine wiring and the temporary grounds.

Just a thought. My PIAA lights are not currently attached. Is it a problem for them to still be attached to the solenoid?

I looked at a bunch of car alarm pictures and none of them ring a bell. The previous owner passed so the manuals and the knowledge of which alarm was installed is forever gone. I hope you had a very happy memorial day weekend. Thank you for taking some moments away from your own party to respond earlier.

SORRY--I DON'T SEE YOUR TEMP GROUNDS

AS LONG AS YOU ARE GROUNDING THE LOOSE DASH TO THE BODY (OR BACK THRU IT, EVENTUALLY WINDING UP AT "NEGATIVE BATTERY" WE SHOULD BE GOOD!)

LOOKING AT YOUR PIC---AND ME BEING A CRITICAL KINDA GUY---I DO NOT LIKE ALL OF THE TAPE ON YOUR BATTERY CABLES....KINDA SAYS SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH THE INSULATION---MAYBE COVERING UP POWDERY CORROSION IN THE WIRE STRANDS.......SOME NEW ONES WOULD BE NICE.....RED FOR POSITIVE, BLACK FOR NEGATIVE

I'M ALSO GONNA HAVE YOU CHANGE THE SOLENOID WIRING A LITTLE---THIS WILL MAKE IT ALOT EZer TO "JUMP THE SOLENOID" FOR CRANKING OR BUMPING UNDER THE HOOD

1ST PIC--STUFF THAT WILL MESS YOU UP

2ND PIC--WIRE YOUR SOLENOID LIKE THIS (SWAP THE BIG CABLES, "S" AND "I" SHOULD REMAIN AS THEY ARE (IF THEY WERE ALREADY RIGHT) ALL ACCESSORY WIRES STAY BUTTED AGAINST THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE

AFTER YOU GET SOLENOID AS I HAVE SHOWN---"S" AND POS BATTERY CABLE WILL BE SIDE BY SIDE

BATTERY MUST BE GOOD---OR YOU ARE JUMP STARTING

AS IN PIC 3, USING A SCREWDRIVER OR A REMOTE STARTER CONNECT POS POST TO "S"...IT'S GONNA JUMP, YOU MAY BECOME INCONTINENT! JUST DON'T JUMP INTO THE FAN OR BELTS!.......IF THIS TURNS THE ENGINE OVER WE KNOW THE UNDER HOOD STARTING CIRCUIT IS FINE (WE MAY HAVE TO TRACE "S" WIRE, OR OTHER STUFF, BACK IF THE KEY STILL DOES NOT WORK)....

......JUST A TEST, IF IT MOVES, TURN THE KEY "ON" AND TRY IT AGAIN....DOES IT START?

DON'T GO CRAZY-----WE MAY NOT HAVE IGNITION---TEST THIS, IN PIC 4 (YOUR VALUE MAY DIFFER THAN MINE)

ALRIGHT GET TO WORK---THE NEW BATTERY CABLES CAN "SLIDE" TILL YOU GET SOME $$$

REPORT BACK---I'M ABOUT TO START MAKING SOME MORE DIAGRAMS FOR CHECKING AND TRACING WIRES---DEPENDENT ON YOUR RESULTS

ARE WE "JIVIN'" OR ARE YOU LOST?

THE MEDIC

I TYPE SLOW--- I LEAVE THOUGHTS OUT

WHEN DOING MY TESTS---MAKE SURE YOUR JEEP IS OUT OF GEAR---WHEELS CHOCKED--EMERGENCY BRAKE ON!!!!

THE MEDIC

I JUST PICKED UP ON YOUR PICS

BATTERY NEGATIVE SHOULD BOLT TO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE ENGINE BLOCK!!! MINE IS ON THE SIDE ABOUT MIDWAY.

BATTERY POSITIVE GOES TO SOLENOID ALL ACCESSORIES WILL STACK AGAINST IT, PROVIDING THEM WITH POWER (AS I SHOW YOU IN MY PIC!)

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE SOLENOID SHOULD GO TO THE STARTER (BY ITSELF NO OTHER WIRES OR CABLES)

WE SEEM TO BE ANSWERING OUT OF SYNC TO EACH OTHER!---I AM SLOW, AND I AM MAKING A LOT OF THIS STUFF IN "MICROSOFT PAINT" AS I GO---SLOWING ME DOWN EVEN MORE!....BEAR WITH ME...I DON'T WANNA STEER YOU WRONG!

I FORGOT TO MENTION.......WE DO APPRECIATE YOUR DONATIONS, I PERSONALLY APPRECIATE YOUR CONFIDENCE IN ME...I'M MORE OF A "HANDS ON" TEACHER TYPE, AND IMMA "SKILLED" DIYer FROM WAY BACK WITH MY OWN JEEPS, THIS COMPUTER STUFF IS REALLY ONLY THREE YEARS OLD---TO A 48 YEAR OLD FELLER.

I TRY TO MAKE HANDS ON LEARNING FUN AND RE-MEMORABLE ---ITS HARD TO TRANSLATE ALL OF THAT INTO TEXT!

THE MEDIC

DEAR MEDIC,
WE HAVE IGNITION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I rewired the solenoid as you said and jumped it using a 10 gauge wire. It worked! Now let me try to answer your questions ...

1) Regarding the electrical tape on the battery: I think that was done because someone installed RED as the negative and BLACK as the positive. So somewhere along the way someone else added the black electrical tape to hide the "red" so as to avoid confusion. The connecters were all replaced this year and the copper in the wires still look good. I'll send you a pic of them later and you can judge for yourself.

2) The battery is good. It is BRAND NEW as of 4 hours ago. My old one was reading 0.55V and it was still under warranty so I got a free replacement.

3) The Jeep started but once I shut her off the key DID NOT restart the ignition. Our CJ friend doesn't even try to turn over.

4) The fuel and temp gauges don't seem to be reading anything. I guess maybe they are indeed fried. I'm happy to deal with that later.

5) I did the test across from the battery neg to the solenoid positive and kept getting 12.5V. Every once in a while I would get 8 or 9V but not for long. And it pretty much read 12.5V whether the key was turned on or off.

I'm very excited for the next steps. And here is a pic of the solenoid setup just to give you eyes. And thank you, thank you! So far my car will START. That is a HUGE improvement already!!

DO THIS TEST--"KEY ON".......PIC 1.....THIS IS POSITIVE "COIL" TO A GOOD GROUND (NEG BATTERY)---WE ARE SEEING IF VOLTAGE IS REACHING THE COIL, AND EXACTLY HOW MUCH...WITH THE "KEY ON"

YOU MAY HAVE DONE THIS TEST, 'CEPT YOU CALLED IT SOLENOID?????

I NEED TO KNOW THIS AT THE COIL!!


PIC 2-----????

PIC 3----YOUR RESULTS?

PIC 4-----????

GLAD TO SEE YOU ARE MOTIVATED!!!

PLEASE CLARIFY THIS---IT TURNED OVER FINE..."DID" OR "DID NOT" BUST OFF AND RUN WITH KEY ON??? ....WHEN YOU "CHEATED THE SOLENOID"

I MUST WORK IN MORN 11:00---LONG DAY---COVERING FOR ANOTHER PERSON TOO....BACK AT ABOUT 20:00 TOMORROW EVENING

PLEASE DON'T BE SAD---WE WILL GET IT!

THE MEDIC

1) The coil is reading 12.1V or so off the positive when the key is in "ON" position. Not in the 7-8 range as in your picture.

2) Nope, that section of the wire coming off the cluster isn't melted. It's got a butt connecter there. See closeup. But what is strange is that there is an extra wire hanging out around there. When I took the speedo apart, I took pictures of everything so I know for sure that I reconnected everything the same. But I'm open to suggestions.

3) Testing the wires off the solenoid, the "S" side wire barely did anything. I got 0 with the key off and then somewhere around 0.8V with the key in the "ON" position and then no change (so still about 0.8V) in the "START" position. I tested the "I" side as well. Got 0 with the key off and then about 6.9V in the key "ON" and in the "START" positions.

4) So, the yellow and red wires twisted together go to my stereo. As for the big box hanging down, it's something that was installed between the wiper switch and the wiper motor cables. I've removed it and attached a picture. Could this have been part of the alarm? Problem is I can't directly hook up the the wiper to the motor without this "chunk" because while the actual wire connections look to be the same, the plastic connectors are shaped differently.

5) In my Haynes manual, if I am not mistaken, there should be 2 fusable links coming off the POS from my solenoid going to the alternator and to the ignition, etc. Is there anything I should know about installing these or is it just a matter of putting in some 14 gauge wire?

6) The last picture ... is there a hose missing??

I was wrong about the box coming off of the wiper control switch ... that is my intermittent governor box. I tried to bypass it and attach the wiper motor to the switch directly and got some movement but it wasn't functioning properly so i detached everything again. The wiper motor is part of what got me into this mess also. My mechanic said that the motor was blown so I ordered a new one and when I plugged it in it didn't work. So I still can't figure out what's wrong with it, but maybe the problem is in the governor box. Since you're at work doing a double shift (sorry man), I'm going to cruise around online and see what I can dig up about it.

Figured out the wiper motor, so all my attention is back to the ignition problem. My mechanic had told me that my old wiper motor was broken but in fact it just wasn't ground properly. The last bolt on the bottom of the motor housing is slightly longer than the other two and grounds the wipers against the windshield frame. Now I have a new wiper motor that I have to try and return. Let me know what's next on the ignition, boss. I was tracing the "S" wire and it looks a bit grimy at the fuse box. Going to see if I can clean it up a bit while I wait for direction.

I'M TRYING TO GET YOU SOME STUFF TOGETHER AS YOU READ THIS

AFTER I SAW YOUR PIC AND THE "AMC" LOGO, I FIGURED IT MIGHT BE INTERMITTENT WIPERS

SOLENOID TEST: "I TERMINAL" (NOT "I" WIRE) AIN'T GONNA GIVE FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE UNTIL WE MAKE "S" WORK PROPERLY AND THE SOLENOID ACTIVATES, LIKE IT SHOULD.

(WHICH WILL TURN THE STARTER OVER-UNLESS WE DISCONNECT THE BIG CABLE AT THE STARTER WHILE TESTING)

THEN, WITH THE KEY AT "START", THIS WILL MAKE THE ELECTROMAGNET IN THE SOLENOID "CLICK REALLY HARD" (COPPER CONTACT PLATES WITHIN IT ARE "CONNECTING" THE 2 BIG POSTS, TO RUN THE STARTER STRAIGHT OFF OF THE BATTERY....BASICALLY, A BIG ELECTRIC SWITCH IN THE BIG CABLES.

THEN "I TERMINAL", ON THE SOLENOID, WILL PUT OUT FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE.....BOOSTING THE COIL, WHILE THE STARTER TURNS.....WHY THE BOOST?...BECAUSE THE STARTER WOULD NORMALLY BE ROBBING VOLTAGE FROM THE COIL (AND EVERYTHING) AS IT TURNS

SOOOOOO!!! WE GOTTA "S WIRE" WORKING.......I'M WORKING ON IT---I WANT TO MAKE IT AS EZ AS I CAN....LIKE 2ND GRADER LEVEL, SO OTHERS WILL UNDERSTAND, WHO MIGHT READ THIS, OR IF I LINK SOMEONE HERE

YOU ARE DOING GREAT!

SUPER INFO!

A MANUAL!

PICS!

VOLTMETER LITERATE (FOR WHAT WE NEED)

WIPERS.....LATER! IF YOU CHANGE YOUR WIPER SWITCH, AND WIRE UP LIKE AN EARLIER MODEL, MAYBE YOU CAN LOSE THE INTERMITTENT STUFF...........I HAVE THE DIAGRAM YOU CAN USE TO DO THIS!!!!!....BUT LATER!

YES, THE HOSE IS MISSING! IT'S A "TIN FOIL" "MINIATURE CLOTHES DRIER VENT" LOOKING HOSE, A PARTS STORE SHOULD HAVE ONE ("GENERIC")

I KNOW YOU ARE EAGER!

THANKS FOR ANSWERING QUESTIONS I ASK! (IF I MISS ONE OF YOURS, ASK ME AGAIN!)


I NEED SOME MORE ANSWERS---THIS WAS RUNNING UP UNTIL THE ALARM UNINSTALL??? HAS ANYONE TAKEN THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT OR MOVED IT??

REPLACE THE BLOWN FUSES! THEIR SLOTS SHOULD HAVE HAVE THE CORRECT AMPS WRITTEN ON THE PANEL ABOVE OR BELOW THEM

I WANT TO TO TRY TO START IT WITH THE KEY, ONCE THE FUSES ARE IN PLACE.....RESULTS???

CHECK TO SEE WHAT MAY HAVE BLOWN (AGAIN) THIS IS IMPORTANT!




IF IT STILL DOES NOT CRANK---DO THIS:

THIS IS WHAT YOUR MODULE LOOKS LIKE

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Ignition-Control-Module-BWD_5240484-P_194_R%7CGRPTUNEAMS_____

TO REMOVE YOUR IGNITION MODULE ....ON EITHER SIDE OF THE CONNECTORS GRASP THE WIRES AND PULL HARD (DIGGING W/ A SCREWDRIVER IS SORTA FRUITLESS) IF YOU PULL EVENLY ON THE BUNDLE OF WIRES, IT WILL COME APART AND YOU WON'T BREAK THE LOCKING TABS


OFF TO A POPULAR AUTO PARTS STORE, YOU GO....THEY USUALLY WILL TEST THESE FOR FREE

LETS WATCH AND SEE IF THEY HOOK UP RIGHT (IF YOU KINDA CAN READ THE CHART THEY ARE READING)

THEN HAVE THEM TEST IT 5-8 TIMES (THIS WILL WARM IT UP) SHOULD IT FAIL THE LAST FEW TESTS.....ANY THING LESS IS LAZINESS....AND YOU MIGHT SUFFER...NOT THEM!

WHAT IF IT FAILS?.............YES, REPLACE IT!

AS YOU PUT YOU HAND ON THEIR DOOR HANDLE TO LEAVE, WITH YOUR NEW ONE............

TURN YOUR BUTT RIGHT AROUND, GO BACK TO THE COUNTER, AND HAVE THEM TEST "THEIR" NEW ONE 5-8 TIMES.

WHY????

THERE'S NOTHING LIKE TEARING YOUR ENTIRE JEEP CJ 5 DOWN (EVEN THE WIRING) FOR 2 DAYS, TEARING YOUR HAIR OUT!.........BECAUSE, IT WILL NOT START!!! .......THEN YOU TAKE THE BRAND NEW, UNTESTED MODULE, BACK TO THE STORE, ONLY TO FIND OUT.....IT TOO, WAS BAD!

BELOW IS A PIC OF THE TESTER AT ADVANCE AUTO......THE CORRECT PIG-TAIL TO TEST YOURS IS RIGHT BESIDE THE MACHINE (I PUT IT THERE!)


AFTER THIS SET OF ANSWERS I GET FROM YOU

I'M GONNA REQUEST THAT YOU SEND ...."NO MORE INFO"!, UNTIL I SEND YOU SOME MORE TESTING FROM DIAGRAMS I AM TRYING TO MAKE YOU

I SORTA NEED TO CONCENTRATE ON MY "BATTLE PLAN"---AND NOT GET SIDE-TRACKED!......AGAIN BEAR WITH ME, I'M HAVING TO MAKE MY STUFF FROM SCRATCH WITH YOUR WIRING ISSUE (MY '79 DIAGRAM IS NOT CLOSE ENOUGH WITH "IGNITION")

OK, ANSWER AWAY!........THEN WAIT FOR ME TO RESPOND!

DON'T WORRY--I WILL RETURN!

THE MEDIC

1) It was definitely running up until the alarm uninstall. No one has touched the distributor or anything else under the hood.

2) Retested the solenoid TERMINALS this time. Nothing from "S" and therefore nothing going out the "I" when I turned the ignition. As you said.

3) Replaced the 2 fuses that were blown before. Tried the ignition. Nothing. And nothing reblown. All fuses intact.

I'm supposed to deliver my car to the painter tomorrow to get one last coat on the hood. May have to jump the solenoid to get there, but at least that is an option!!

Will not write again till you respond, sir.

I'M STILL AT IT

TAKING A BREAK

I JUST REMEMBERED ANOTHER QUESTION YOU ASKED

THERE WILL BE SEVERAL OR MANY WIRES UNDER YOUR DASH THAT ARE DANGLING.....THEY ARE FOR OPTIONS THAT MAY HAVE BEEN AVAILABLE TO YOUR JEEP, LIKE:

FLOOR LIGHTING (ON EITHER END OF THE DASH, JUST UNDERNEATH, THE ROTATION OF THE LIGHT SWITCH WOULD HAVE TURNED THEM ON LIKE A DOME LIGHT

CLOCK

TACHOMETER

CIGARETTE LIGHTER

RADIO

A/C

ETC

I FIGURED IT MIGHT WORRY YOU THAT YOU THOUGHT THEY MAY HAVE BEEN CONNECTED SOMEWHERE........YOU MAY EVEN SEE THEM IN A WIRE DIAGRAM

I SCANNED A '79 DIAGRAM, CLEANED IT UP


I ALWAYS HAD A PROBLEM READING THE CJ DIAGRAMS IN THE REPAIR MANUALS. FINALLY I SCANNED ONE THAT I HAD NOT "CHICKEN SCRATCHED" COLORED MARKERS AND PEN LINES ON THEM. MY BIGGEST PROBLEM WAS WHERE MANY, MANY WIRES RAN PARALLEL TO EACH OTHER, IT WAS REAL EZ TO GET ONTO THE WRONG WIRE WHILE FOLLOWING THEM.

AFTER SCANNING, I TOOK THE TWO HALVES TO "MICROSOFT PAINT" AND COLORED OVER EACH WIRE WITH THE CORRECT COLORS. AFTER A FEW DAYS OF PLAYING WITH THIS. I EMAILED THEM TO THE OFFICE STORE WHERE I HAD THEM ENLARGED. I THEN FITTED THE HALVES TOGETHER, THEM HAD THEM LAMINATE IT FRONT AND BACK.

THE 1979 DIAGRAM "MOSTLY" IS THE SAME FROM '76-'86 (OR A GUIDE). ANY DIFFERENCES ARE USUALLY THE COMPUTER CRAP ADDED IN THE LATTER YEARS (LIKE YOURS, IGNITION STUFF---LIGHTING AND SUCH ARE MOSTLY THE SAME, WITH SOME COLOR CHANGES!) I GO BACK TO THE REPAIR MANUALS, IF I NEED TO REALLY LOOK AT THE NEWER/ LATER CJs.

WITH THE THINGS I DEAL WITH MOSTLY, MY "GIANT DIAGRAM" IS THE TICKET! I WISH I HAD DONE IT YEARS AGO. 'COURSE TILL THREE YEARS AGO, I HAD NO CLUE HOW TO USE THE COMPUTER.

I TOOK AN EXCERPT FROM MY DIAGRAM FOR THE WIPERS---AFTER YOU SEND ME YOUR RESULTS---YOU CAN "PONDER OVER IT" YOUR DASH SWITCH MAY BE DIFFERENT, MAY NOT BE EXPENSIVE) .....WHILE YOU WAIT ON ME TO SORTA TRACE OUT YOUR '85 DIAGRAM (AT LEAST THE PORTIONS WE WILL NEED) AND LABEL WHAT TO CHECK....I NEED THEM LAST RESULTS! I CAN WAIT!

YOU ARE THE FASTEST RESPONDER TO ME SO FAR, YOU FOLLOW MY LOUSY DIRECTIONS REALLY WELL AND PICK UP ON STUFF FAST! IT USUALLY TAKES A GOOD WHILE TO GET THIS FAR ALONG

THE MEDIC

OK OK!! I know I PROMISED not to write anymore until you responded but ... I FOUND IT! I FOUND THE GAP IN THE CIRCUIT. I guess I was just too eager!

Here are the details for any who may see this thread in the future. When I removed the alarm system, I also removed what I assume was the CB radio system. I didn't even think about it because none of that stuff has been used for decades. But apparently, just cutting it out was NOT OKAY, NO WAY. Here are some pictures of diagrams I looked at and also my actual wires. Basically I followed the light blue wire all the way from the solenoid "S" to this spot.

I only just noticed that you have written me again. I'm not sure if this website has a delay or what.

PLEASE PLEASE, if you are anywhere near finished with your ignition diagrams, I think you should put them up here even if my car is starting now. I bet people who would find this post later would surely appreciate it. I know that I for one, CANNOT MAKE HEADS OR TAILS of the WIRING SCHEMATICS.


Thank you for the help you have provided so far. And thank you for the compliments about following your directions. AND THE DIRECTIONS ARE GOOD!!! I definitely had more confidence to tinker knowing you'd be there to help pick up the pieces if I do something really stupid. I'm also definitely a NEWBIE at working on my Jeep (I only just learned today the difference between a solenoid and a coil). BUT YOU CHALLENGED ME BY ASKING ME "DO YOU LOVE YOUR JEEP?" YOU MUST LOVE JEEPS EVEN MORE TO LEARN ALL THIS COMPUTER STUFF AND SPEND SO MUCH TIME HELPING OUT FELLOW JEEPERS. YOU ARE THE MAN.

I WANT TO LEARN HOW TO KEEP MY CJ7 RUNNING F-O-R-E-V-E-R!!!! MY PLAN IS TO TAKE HER ACROSS THE COUNTRY THIS AUGUST. I THINK YOU ARE JUST THE MAN TO TALK ME THROUGH HOW TO GET HER READY.

After you post YOUR STARTER/IGNITION DIAGRAMS, I still have the following question for you MEDIC:

1) Should I install FUSABLE LINKS coming off my BATT POS from the solenoid? My Jeep Manuals have TWO. One for the ALTERNATOR and one for the IGNITION and stuff, if I am not mistaken. I bought a 14 gauge fusable link at the store. Although it pretty much looks just like regular 14 gauge wire ... Do I just splice them in?

2) My wiper motor DOES WORK now. I figured out that it wasn't grounded properly and now that it is, it works just fine. But ... I would like to clean it out and maybe regrease it. Any thoughts on that? Here's a picture of what it looks like inside. Or is that normal and I should leave it?

3) As I followed my light blue wire I came upon this mess going into my tub. CAN/SHOULD these connections be cleaned???

4) My gauges still need a bit of trouble-shooting. :)


GOOD NIGHT MEDIC. I WILL SLEEP WELL TONIGHT KNOWING MY JEEP WILL START TOMORROW THANKS TO YOU!!!!!

I WILL BE SENDING YOU A PRIVATE MESSAGE 2 MIN AFTER THIS POSTS

TO FIND MESSAGES, GO TO THE TOP OF THIS PAGE....CLICK ON "YOUR NAME".......WHEN THE PAGE POPS UP, LOOK OVER TO THE LEFT

TO ANSWER YOU QUESTIONS

1) ARE YOU SURE THE FUSIBLE LINKS ARE NOT IN THE LINES NOW?

THEY WILL BE ON THE SMALLER WIRES THAT ARE AGAINST THE BATTERY CABLE LUG ON THE SOLENOID POST---THERE SHOULD BE "HEAT SHRINK" WHERE THE FUSIBLE LINK ENDS AND THE REGULAR WIRE BEGINS.....THEY ARE NORMALLY LESS THAN 6 INCHES LONG

THEY ARE NOT NORMALLY MARKED, THEY JUST LOOK LIKE INSULATED WIRE

IF YOU EVER MESS SOMETHING UP AND SUSPECT YOU BLEW ONE

A) IT'LL BURN IN HALF

B)IT WILL LOOK BLISTERED

C) IT MAY LOOK FINE, IF IT WAS BLISTERED (B)...OR NOT, THE INTERNAL WIRE WILL BE FRIED...IF YOU TUG ON THE WIRE, THE INSULATION WILL STRETCH OUT LIKE A RUBBER BAND

D) IF IT HOLDS FIRM WITH THE TUGGING, MOST LIKELY IT IS FINE

E) YOU CAN ALWAYS DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY, STAB A STRAIGHT/TEE PIN INTO THE REGULAR WIRE. RUN A CONTINUITY TEST FROM THE SOLENOID POST TO THE "PIN"

IF YOU DO INSTALL THEM, BUTT SPLICING IS FINE, I SOLDERED MINE IN (ON "WILLY"), THEN SLID HEAT SHRINK OVER IT THAT I HAD PUT OVER THE WIRE 1ST, THEN SHRUNK IT OVER THE SOLDER

2) PUMP THE GEAR CAVITY FULL OF GREASE USING YOUR GREASE GUN/ OR USE VASOLINE--THEN PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER....NOT SO MUCH GREASE THAT IT ALL SQUOOSHES OUT AND MAKES A MESS

3) WIPE OFF THE GOOP--WITH A TUBE OF DIELECTRIC GREASE--SQUEEZE IT INTO EACH FEMALE--SMEAR IT ON THE MALE ENDS, A STIFF BRISTLED BRUSH (SIMILAR TO A 1/4 OR 3/8 WIDE PAINT BRUSH), WORKS WELL

4) GAUGES--I ALREADY SENT THE LINK FOR THE TEMP AND THE FUEL

TEARING INTO IT IS EZ, UN-CRIMP THE BEZEL AND A COUPLE OF SCREWS ON THE BACK

THE ONLY THING TO WATCH IS KEEPING THE THE ELECTRICAL STUDS CENTERED IN THE HOLES (WHICH YOU CANNOT SEE ONCE YOU INSTALL THE CARDBOARD BACKING LOOKING STUFF...EXPOSED ON THE BACK)

WHAT I DO FROM THE "GET-GO" IS TRACE AROUND THE "CARDBOARDY STUFF" WITH A MARKER, BEFORE I DISASSEMBLE THE UNIT.......THEN I CENTER THE "CARDBOARDY STUFF" BACK UP IN MY "TRACE", AND THEN TIGHTEN THE NUTS UP THAT HOLD THE GAUGES IN PLACE......THIS SHOULD KEEP THE STUDS FROM TOUCHING METAL

LASTLY....CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE GLASS GOOD, BEFORE YOU CRIMP IT BACK TOGETHER......NOTHING LIKE DRIVING ALONG AND LOOKING AT "SNOT" FROM WHEN YOU SNEEZED INSIDE THE GLASS, OVER THE TOP OF "55"!


LOOK FOR MESSAGE SOON

THE MEDIC