Distributor retrofit kit.

That retrofit kit was for upgrading from breaker points, not a computerized system. If you have an underlying problem with the ignition timing now, you're still going to have that problem plus a whole bunch of new variables to really confuse the issue.

I have no clue what "crappy" electronics you're referring to. If you have the five-pin ignition module, you already have the best system ever developed. The computerized systems were designed to eliminate ignition timing variation that led to increased tail pipe emissions. That was mainly caused by sloppy timing chains and sloppy distributor shaft bushings. That's why they went to the crankshaft position sensors and computer controls. I raced these engines for many years, and I worked at the dealership for ten years when those kits were available, and they were only produced to update breaker point systems from the '60s. If there was some other modification for a specific vehicle, there would have been a service bulletin produced. It still would not include a complete different ignition system. It would only address a modification to the system already tested and approved for that vehicle.

If you can find someone who still has a "Chrysler Power" book from the '80s, that listed all the racing and high performance parts that were available. The electronic ignition upgrade package consisted of what you already have. If you're having trouble with the ignition timing bouncing around, unbolt the fuel pump, then make a hook from a piece of coat hanger wire and push and pull on the timing chain to see how sloppy it is. It shouldn't move more than about 1/8" from substantial pressure.

Any chance you can post a photo of the parts in the kit?

You'll be doing exactly what I did to my '78 LeBaron as I mentioned in your other post. I had the same type of ignition module. It was the industry's first attempt at adjusting ignition timing with a computer for multiple variables besides just load and engine speed. The five-pin module is available at any parts store for around 25 bucks or less. You can find lots of the distributors in the salvage yards.

Be sure the module is bolted solidly to the body sheet metal. That ground is needed for it to work right. To insure your wiring is correct, get it running with the new module before you replace the distributor. That way if you run into, lets say a no-start condition, there will be that many fewer variables to look at. Once it's running, then you can install the new distributor with the advance mechanisms.