First of all, excellent summary. You knocked out a lot of questions that I was going to ask.
You have two issues. The compressor not coming on sounds like the PCM is not grounding the relay to command it on. We check this by putting your meter on voltage, putting the red lead to battery positive, and the black lead to pin 85 with the engine on and AC on. The PCM should provide the ground which will show 12 volts on your meter. If you don't have 12 volts then the PCM is not grounding that circuit. Which means you have a wiring issue to the PCM or the PCM is faulty. There is a chance that the pressure switch is telling the PCM to not turn on the compressor so we need to check this as well. Basically if you have a scan tool, you can monitor the PCM data and see what that switch is saying. Then you will need to check the PCM and make sure it is getting the bus message from the HVAC module to turn on the AC. This should all be in the live data or monitors section in the PCM on your scan tool.
As for your pressures and temps. I attached the chart and it looks like the low side is a little high and the high side is ok. Based on this I would think the compressor is just weak. Was the compressor replaced with an OEM part or aftermarket?
At 85 degrees, for the vents to blow in the 60's for an aftermarket compressor, you may not get it much better. An OEM part, I would expect low 60's maybe even into the 50's if it is in the shade. These vehicles are almost 20 years old so I have seen very few vehicles that can blow in the low 50's or even 40's like today's vehicles can when ambient temp is in the mid 80's or higher.
Basically what I am saying, is you may not be able to get this to drop the low side 5 more PSI to get it inline. If we can, that may get the temp to drop a few more degrees.
However, let's start with the control issue and then tackle the other.
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Wednesday, July 15th, 2020 AT 3:47 PM