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1992 Honda Accord cold start up idle issues

Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
Engine Mechanical problem
1992 Honda Accord 4 cyl Automatic 325000 miles

Every morning when i start up, car starts like a slight burst of acceleration (not touching pedal) then idle very low (like around 500rpm). When i tap the pedali falls lower and even stalls at times, but starts right back up. Timing was checked last month (shop ok'd, stated was slight retard about 4 digrees or so) plugs, wires, distributor, tps sensor were all replaced a month or so. Looks like i have a very tiny water leak on one of my lines. Did not think this could be the problem. I am thinking it might be the electronic idle control valve. I will replace small hose today, but curious if all that is what is causing the problem?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/219721_92_accord_cb9_1.jpg

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Tuesday, January 27th, 2009 AT 2:43 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi steveal01,

The surging that you are experiencing could be due to the leaking hose, check that the circuit is not clogges while replacing the hose.

When there is insufficient coolant in the system, the EACV would not get a correct operating temperature reading and when that happens, surging occurs when the ECM receives a false signal and tries to compensate for the low or high idling speed.

You might need to clean the throttle body and EACV and readjust the idling speed as well.
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 2:47 PM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
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I have replaced the leaking hose (from area at thermostat location routed to throttlebody), but problem still exist. I will check to see if all lines are clear from that point to the TB. Idle, at normal temperature and in gear, is steady at 750rpm with no movement which is good, other than that initial start up. Do notice that my temperature doe go up after car is warmed up and I am stopped at light at times still. Possibly another leak somewhere.
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Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
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Hi steveal01,

Did you bleed the system after replacement of the hose?
When engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check coolant level. Top up if level is low and run engine without cap and keep topping up till the level maintains itself before recapping.
Check reserve tank level as well, if it is overflowing you might have a bad radiator cap and the worse case would be a bad head gasket. If the level is low, then it is either due to air pockets or a leak somewhere and if you require topping up frequently, then a pressure test would be necessary if the leakage is minimal as a visual iinspection might not reveal any results.
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Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
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Well I've done a cold start with the radiator cap off (still topped off), then checked all water lines and no leaks, but the filler neck of the radiator when vehicle was warming started overflow little at a time. I covered filler neck and accelerated tap and coolant possible overflowed into reservoir but then coolant at radiator filler neck then remained level. Could this be a bad sign of plugged route or even head gasket? Have not noticed any fluid out the tail pipe. Puzzled?
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Wednesday, February 11th, 2009 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
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When engine starts warming up, it would tend to overflow as the heated coolant expands.

When coolant is being pushed into reserve tank, it could mean a bad radiator cap or high pressure in the system caused by bad head gaskets.

For this engine, there would not be much to look out for when head gasket is bad. A hydrocarbon leakage test would be necessary. Enquire at your local parts store for a detection kit.
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Thursday, February 12th, 2009 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
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Well, I might have found the problem but when it rains, it pours. Happened to check the radiator cap seal, after toughing it, it just about broke apart. So I replaced and the overheating (gauge) now stays about mid way, but did notice smoke around radiator after I shut off. I need to make sure I bleeded the system correctly. This did not resolve this morning idle issue. I also checked the FITV and noticed after warmed up, air still flows through so that may be faulty. Was told once warmed that no air is to flow through.
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Thursday, February 19th, 2009 AT 9:02 AM
Tiny
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Once warmed up the FITV should close completely preventing air from passing through. If it is not, the either the coolant passages are clogged or the valve is faulty or gone out of adjustment due to a worn O ring.

Steam around radiator means water is present and it could mean a leak in the system unless you have spilled water or coolant onto the radiator.
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Thursday, February 19th, 2009 AT 1:06 PM
Tiny
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Washed car last night but did drive 55 miles this morning and still noticed steam. Will check system. Also will look for FITV. Have ben looking for one for months at wrecking yards but they are always missing as well as the IACV. They must go out alot. Everyone keeps taking them.
You think this could be leadtime to my tranny issue? Usually after 4th gear (i believe when solenoids both lock) acts like overdrive for fuel efficiency, only engages when car is warmed up (about after about 10-20 miles of driving miles of driving)?
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Thursday, February 19th, 2009 AT 1:29 PM
Tiny
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FITV is adjustable if it is not stuck or leaking. While engine is warming up, check if coolant hoses are hot going in and out. If both are hot, after engine has warmed up, open the cover and check for air leakages. If air is leaking, turn the plastic white colored cap till air is not leaking or idling stabilises. Owever do noy tighten too much elses it would cause cold idle to be too low.

The 4th speed and lock-up are different systems. For fuel efficiency, the lock-up cutch would lock the torque converter to prevent slipping between engine and transmission mainshaft an it would operate even in 3rd gear if D3 is used.

If 4th speed and reverse are both slipping, the 4th clutch is failing and when warmed up, it might work but when cold there is excessive pressure leakages.
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Friday, February 20th, 2009 AT 7:28 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
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I have taken the FITV apart and cleaned (used thottle body cleaner and air dried. Adjusted but still air leak so valve must be bad. Will have to replace. Thanks for the info.
As for the tranny, fluid level is good, but might be time to change fluid even though had rebuilt about a year ago. Do alot of highway drive and slightly red in color and not much smell (burnt). Lock-up clutch still issue every morning but will work great the remainder of the day. Anything to do or check the cause? Too bad miled out of the warantee.
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Thursday, February 26th, 2009 AT 9:15 AM
Tiny
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Did you check and readjust the trans throttle pressure cable?

Improper adjustment can cause shifting and performance irregularities.
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Thursday, February 26th, 2009 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
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Cable has not been touched other than AMMCO when they rebuilt it. Now that it's past warantee, $$$$$$.
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Wednesday, March 4th, 2009 AT 2:25 PM
Tiny
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Check throttle pressure cable adjustment. It should move in tandem with throttle opening and if there is insufficient free travel, the lock up clutch would not work correctly.

For the year model, the trans is rather reliable and since rebuilt was done 1 year ago, it should not fail that fast.

Could be due to faulty lockup clutch inside torque converter or the solenoids sticking when cold. If you are able to get the solenoids to test, that would be good as they are easier to deal with than the torque converter.
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Wednesday, March 4th, 2009 AT 4:54 PM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
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Still stumbled. Well I searched the web and ran into a forum with a guy that ran into the same issue on his older civic with this same lockup problem during cold weather. Mentioned about tranny giving up the ghost, what ever that meant, but found out the issue and was un-expected. Ended up being the thermostat that fixed the problem. Could be my problem as I still have issues with my temp gauge going up during the cold weather and of course when the lockup problems occur. Will check that as well even though that was replaced, could have been faulty.
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 7:42 AM

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