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Car and Truck Engine Will Not Start Questions
This category contains featured questions as examples. They relate to most vehicles.
Question: 1998 Ford Escort Z x 2_mileage:
109,000. The other day I ran out of gas. I went and got
gas put the gas in and my car still won't start. I have
checked the fuses and I tried to do the fuel switch off
thing...nothing will work. I try to start it and it just
keeps turning over but not starting. I also tried to
have it jumped and its not the battery. Any suggestions?
Answer: Check for fuel pressure while
cranking the engine over. If there is no pressure the
fuel pump is damaged caused by running our of gas.
Question: 1999 Chrysler Concorde,
mileage: 80,000. Won't start in cold
weather. During the summer it starts right
up but as the temperature falls the harder
it is to start. It did the same thing last
winter too. I tried disconnecting the MAP
sensor but it didn't make any difference.
When I start the car it cranks and tries to
fire up then cranks again. Some times it
takes 4 or 5 times of trying and some times
more, but if it is 50 degrees or warmer
outside it fires right up. Also, when it
does finally start and I drive a ways, it
will start again without a problem. It only
does this when it sits for awhile in cold
temperatures I hope this gives you enough
info.
Answer: First scan the PCM for
trouble codes using a hand held
engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present check
fuel pump pressure at the time of failure, replace as
needed.
Question:
2002 Chevrolet Impala, mileage: 88,000. My car won't
start on the first try...it takes at least three to four
times before it will start. It tries to catch and
kind of sputters out, when it does finally start it
seems almost to lapse and then surge. I am not
sure if that makes sense, but I don't know how else to
explain it. My husband has replaced the plugs and wires,
we have also taken it to be serviced at the dealership;
they could not find anything wrong with it. We are
at a loss on what it could be....I am desperately
wanting to fix this problem, it's making me crazy!
Answer:
Check your fuel pressure regulator, remove the vacuum
line to check for the presents of fuel. If so, replace
fuel pressure regulator with new to repair problem.
(note: this is a common problem)
Question:
1999 Chevrolet Blazer, mileage: 90,000. Three weeks
ago, my son-in-law and I replaced the original engine
with a short block and had the heads re-conditioned at a
machine shop. We have been unable to get the
engine started except for very short periods of time, 3
seconds or so. The coil tested out of spec so it
was replaced. The gasket under the throttle body
was bad so it was replaced also. I checked the
throttle position sensor with a digital voltmeter and
compared it with a new sensor. The readings were
nearly identical. A self contained timing light would
only flash 5 to ten times during cranking and then no
flash. I hooked up a 12v Sun timing light and it
flashes every time. Hooking a spark plug wire to
an old plug to test for fire shows a blue spark the
first few times and changes to a red spark indicating to
me a weak spark. The fuel injectors seem to be
spraying too much gas and it is my opinion they are
flooding the engine. I checked the engine codes
and got a 12 only. I borrowed a good computer and
installed it. No change in the spark color or
starting. I un-hooked the fuel pump relay and
cranked the engine. After four or five seconds,
the fuel injectors start spraying. Today I checked
and compared the engine temperature sensor to a new one
and again it was nearly the same resistance.
Tomorrow I plan to check cranking vacuum and
compression. If things look good, one last thing I
plan to change the injectors with a set from a 3.1
engine. This will be only a test to prove if the
original injectors are spraying too much fuel. Any
other ideas?Answer:
Check the fuel injectors, if one is shorted it will
cause the injector driver to go full open signal.
Disconnect the fuel injectors to test resistance across
the terminals to located shorted injector. Replace as
needed to repair problem.
Question:
1999 Mitsubishi Mirage, mileage 130,000: We just
changed the alternator and jump started the car.
After a couple of minutes the engine light came on, the
car beeped three times and then the car shut itself off.
The car can't be restarted. We jumped it a second
time with the same results.Answer:
First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand held
engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present we
think you may have shorted an electrical circuit. Check
all fuses replace as needed.
Question:
1999 Chevrolet Venture,
mileage: 120,000. Ok...I give up. I have a degree
in Criminal Justice...not auto mechanics. My car
had been having some issues with the ignition. Might
have to try it 3-4-5 times before it would "catch" and
start. I thought it may be the solenoid...so I
replaced the starter and solenoid unit...it was under
warranty. Then it wouldn't do anything...period.
Nothing, no lights, dome light, buzzer on the
ignition...nothing. So I asked around and was told
it may be the ignition starter switch...the one you have
to drop down the steering column to get too. Took
it to parts store and they tested it with a volt meter
and said it was bad...I thought great, finally a
reprieve,,,, but no that didn't work either....I'm
pulling my hair out!
Answer:
Its sounds like you have positive/negative battery cable
that needs replacing. The fact you have no power
anywhere tells us that your main power system is non
fictional, pointing us to the battery cables.
Question: 1999 Ford F-250, Mileage: 115,000.
My truck stumbled due to fuel starvation, and died along
the highway in the middle of the Arizona desert last
week. Fuel is no longer being delivered to the
injection. Fuel pump is new but does not come on when
the truck ignition is turned on. All wires going to the
pump are in good order. Replaced the fuel pump relay but
no help. Put a test light on the relays contacts and
found one wire was hot with the ignition on. Cannot find
a fused link in the engine compartment and all fuses in
the passenger compartment looked OK although I found
none marked fuel pump. What is wrong with my truck?
Answer: It sounds like you have a fuel
pump that is starting to fail. Test for fuel pressure at
the time of failure. Replace fuel pump as needed to
repair problem.
Question: 2002 Chevrolet S-10 pick up, miles:
79,000 The Passlock anti-theft deterrent system is
malfunctioning. My truck thinks I am trying to steal it.
The engine will fire but after 2 seconds, the computer
cuts the fuel line to prevent theft. The owner's manual
says this is caused by a faulty key or some kind of
contaminant in the starter itself. I've tried the
manual's way of bypassing this (wait 10 minutes and
retry) but, nothing is working. The dealer wants to
charge me over $700 when this is all said and done. Have
you guys heard about any other ways to bypass this? Matt
Answer: To reset the pass lock system,
turn key on for five minuets, then shut key off for five
minuets. then restart normally. If the system resets for
no reason you need to replace the anti theft module.
Question: 1999 Chevrolet Corvette,
mileage: 130,000. When I start the engine it
sounds as if the starter is still engaged and spinning
at the same speed as the flywheel and not grinding. Then
when I turn the key completely off the engine continues
cranking as if I was trying to start it, but the key is
completely off. Any ideas? Starter? Relay?
Answer: It appears that you probably
have a bad starter and/or solenoid. Replace with new to
repair problem.
Question: 1999 Honda Civic, mileage:
151,016. Having just taken the car through an emissions
inspection, I found my hydrocarbon outputs a bit too
close to the limits, so I felt a tune up was in order. I
have replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap
and rotor, both fuel and air filters, some leaking fuel
lines that I found in the process, PCV valve, and I
changed the oil. Now, the car will not start. I have
verified that I have spark from each of the spark plug
wires, (By holding a connected spark plug against the
valve cover with pliers and cranking the engine.) and
the firing order is the same as when the old components
were removed. (I made a diagram.) I do have fuel getting
to the intake and all vacuum lines are connected where
they should be. Compression should not be an issue,
because the car ran before I did the tune up. I have
checked everything that my Haynes manual has recommended
me to try. The PCV valve fits into a socket on the block
and a tube leads from a nipple on the PCV valve to the
intake manifold. The old valve was dangling from the
tube, and not fitted into the socket. I put the new one
in correctly, however this should not affect the
starting of the engine. I walked to a Honda Dealership
and asked a mechanic if there were any other things I
should check. (I do have fairly good mechanical
knowledge and experience, but it's always good to ask
the experts.) I have also tried replacing all the old
parts that I removed, including the leaking fuel hoses.
There is no way I could have installed the distributor
cap or rotor 180 Degrees out of phase, as I have
purposely tried to install it wrong. Ether starting
spray will not work, nor will cranking with the throttle
to the floor. I have let it sit for a few hours with the
plugs out to allow any excess gas to evaporate. I am all
out of ideas, as is my father, and several mechanic
friends.
Answer: It sounds like you may
have a timing belt that has failed and needs replacing.
Remove the timing belt inspection cover to check.
Question: 1994 Ford F150,
mileage: 190,000. Will cold start fine...will not hot
start. Replaced the battery, etc. after testing showed
bad. But, still did not start and made horrible grinding
type noise when the key was turned to start it. Finally
got it to start and immediately took it home. After
sitting about 1 - 1 1/2 hours it did start but made same
noise!
Answer: You may have a faulty
starter, replace with new to repair problem.
Question: 2003 Infinity M45 mileage:
50,000. The fuel pump died and I replaced it, Then it
was very hard to start and would fuel up quickly and all
cylinders. It was drivable if it would start but at
about 80% power. Once it ran it would start again
without to much trouble but after a day or two it was
hard to start (10-15 min of cranking). I replaced Coil,
Plugs, Module, MAF; NO Change. I got no codes. I
replaced the ECM the car started right up no carbon,
100% power. The third time I started it (30 min total
time on new ECM) it stopped dead in its tracks- NO
Codes. Next day no start at all- No Codes.
Could something be wiping out the RAM in the ECM?
Answer: First scan the PCM for
trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then
repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no
codes are present we would check the fuel pump.
Question: 1998 Dodge Dakota,
mileage: 114,000. The car is not getting any fuel
but has correct fuel pressure to injectors. Car will
start after being pulled (about 30 mph), but will not
start on its own. Lowest compression is about 65 lbs on
two cylinders. Car runs great after being pulled and
started. Can you tell us anything - if not, do you have
suggestions where to look?
Answer: First scan the PCM for
trouble codes using a hand held engine scanner, Then
repair codes by replacing failed sensor as needed. If no
codes are present we would check the catalytic
converter.
Question: 2001 Honda Civic, mileage:
75,000. The fuel pump in my car went out so it was
replaced. It still won't start. There's no power to the
fuel pump when the ignition switch is on, but when it is
at start position there is power to the fuel pump. Are
there any inline fuses to the fuel pump that could be
the problem, and if so where are they located? There is
no power coming from the computer to tell the electrical
circuit to run the fuel pump. The electrical circuit has
also been replaced.
Answer: There is a good chance the
fuel pump has installed incorrectly. Recheck the
installation of the fuel pump.
Question: 1995 BMW 325i, mileage:
99,000. Shut this car off one afternoon, but the next
morning it would not start; it has been very reliable
with no problems. It fired once, then died. I got it
started, finally, but it was missing really badly. I
shut it off and later tried to start it with no luck. I
have done the following: checked for trouble codes. The
car cranks over and over, but doesn't fire. Could weak
plugs, faulty ignition be my problem? Is there some
other module, etc. that I should check? Is there a
problem with the valves now? Compression? Your help
would be appreciated!
Answer: First scan the PCM for
trouble codes using a hand held
engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present we
would check the fuel pump.
Question: 2002 Ford Escape, miles:
89,000 We just had the heater core replaced and all of a
sudden once that was done, the truck won't start. A
friend seems to think the fuel pump isn't working now,
as he doesn't hear anything when he turns the ignition
on. We were wondering before we replace the pump is
there any fuse that could have blown. If we have to
replace the fuel pump any idea how much that will cost
to do...Grant.
Answer: Your vehicle is
equipped with a fuel cut off safety switch, check that
first. Then scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed.
Question: 1999 Jeep Grand
Cherokee, mileage: 100,000. Will crank over, but will
not start. Has no spark. Added new distributor cap and
rotor, still no spark. Checked coil with an ohmmeter and
seems ok (0.6 ohm between + and -. 6,500 ohms between +
and anode. Infinity to core), suspected the ignition
module, but it tested ok at a parts store. Ignition
Module was replaced 2 years ago. New plugs and plug
wires 1 year ago. What do you think?
First scan the PCM for trouble codes using a hand
held engine scanner, Then repair codes by replacing
failed sensor as needed. If no codes are present we
would check the crankshaft sensor.
Question: 1999 Porsche Boxster,
miles: 67,000. I was hoping you could help me with a
problem I'm having. When I turn the key to start the
engine nothing happens, the engine won't turn over. I
tried cleaning the battery connections, I changed the
ignition switch, checked the neutral safety switch, and
it still won't turn over, the starter solenoid doesn't
even click. The lights, radio, clock and all the buzzers
work and the battery has 12 volts with the headlights
on. If you can give me any help with this problem, it
would be much appreciated.
Answer: It could be that your immobilizer has
malfunctioned. Check the terminals to see if they are
corroded. A starter relay powers
the starter solenoid which may have failed.
Replace starter motor with new to repair problem.
Question: 2001 Ford Focus, mileage:
86,000. A few days ago my brother's Escort broke the
timing belt tensioner. We replaced the tensioner and the
car ran fine at idle, but when you start to put a load
on the engine, it dies. So, we retimed the car. We have
the timing as close as we can tell to being perfect. Now
the car does not even attempt to start. The engine is
getting fuel, the spark plugs are firing. We've been
told that this is a non-interference engine, but
yesterday a mechanic told us it is an interference
engine. Which is right? Is it possible that we bent a
valve or are we just still that far out of time? Or,
could it be something totally different?
Answer: It sounds like the timing
belt could be off a notch. The best way to check for a
bent valve is to do a compression check.
Question: 1996 Ford Crown
Victoria, mileage: 115,000. The problem is that the car
does not start in the rain. I had this checked out by a
professional, and he thought it was the plugs and wires
(to the best of my understanding). He replaced all of
these and still it does not start. I was wondering if it
could be anything else that could be repaired or
replaced. The car is no longer worth much, but it is a
good car and I would like to get it running again. The
cheaper the solution the better.
Answer: When your car will not
start here are some things to have checked: 1. Check for
ignition spark at spark plugs, 2. Check for fuel
pressure, 3. Scan P.C.M. (computer) for fault or error
codes. The information should pinpoint the
malfunctioning components.
Question: 1999 Dodge Durango,
mileage: 111,000. Had a dead battery which we had
replaced. Now the aftermarket alarm system will not
disengage and we cannot start the car. Can you help?
Answer: All aftermarket alarm
system are not recommenced by all car manufacturers.
They are often made from inferior electronics and fail
often. Remove the alarm system to repair problem.
Question: 1999 BMW 528i, mileage:
110,000. During the spring/summer/fall, when my car is
warmed up to normal operating temp, if I shut it off and
let it cool down part way, it doesn't want to start. It
acts like it is being choked. If it cools completely, or
if it is still at full temperature, it starts fine, but
when it has had 20-30 minutes to cool, it acts this way.
It will run Very rough, when it does finally start for
about 30 seconds to a minute. Any thoughts?
Answer: An internal fuel leak,
possibly a fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator,
could be causing your problem.
Remove the vacuum
line to check for the presence of fuel. If so, replace
fuel pressure regulator with new to repair problem.
(note: this is a common problem).
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