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Car Engine Smog Inspection Test Questions
This category contains featured questions as
examples. They relate to most vehicles.

Question:
1999 Chevrolet Malibu mileage: 45,000. In trying to get
this car passed in a smog test. The tech told my son to
drive the car for 1 hour to "run" the monitors and then
bring it in for the test. We do not drive the car very
much and is it possible that we have not driven it
enough to “run” the monitor? Thanks for the help.Answer: There is no set
time the monitors with complete there test cycle. Drive
your car at least 20 miles, most cars will reset by
then.
Question: 2002
Ford Ranger, mileage: 96,000. My truck passes all the
emissions test except for NOX. I have taken it twice now
to get a smog and the first time the NOX was 721 at 15
mph 1457 at 25 mph and the max is 986 at 15 mph and 846
at 25 mph. The second time I took it, it was at 15 mph
773 and at 25 mph 1283. So it passes at 15 mph every
time but won't at 25. I just got a new EGR valve. So
somehow I need the NOX to go down 400 ppm. If you guys
could help that would be great.
Answer: You may have a
partially plugged exhaust passage that feeds the EGR
valve. Also try replacing the oxygen senor with a new
unit.
Question: 1974 Jaguar XJ12L, miles:
78,000 My Jag failed the smog check again this year. The
smog check station mechanic said that I need to have a
Jaguar mechanic adjust the carburetors (4 carburetors)
because the idle HC was 1405 the normal is 550. Does the
Jag need carburetor repair/overhaul or just need
adjustment of the 4 carburetors gas/air mixture? I can
smell a strong odor of gas when I pop the trunk open.
Answer: Adjusting the
carburetors may bring the hydrocarbons down to an
acceptable level. Make sure the carburetors are evenly
balanced so that each one draws the same amount of air.
Also, check for vacuum leaks. The strong gas odor when
you pop the trunk is definitely something to look at.
You may have a rubber hose on the fuel line that is
leaking.
Question: 2002 Isuzu Rodeo mileage:
88,000. Can't pass Calif. smog test. H/C is way high,
even at idle (in Calif. they call this a 'gross
polluter'), l everything else is OK - car runs fine. Had
tune up done - plugs, wires, filters, oil, adjust
timing, etc. Still way high on H/C levels. Mechanic
replaced throttle body gasket, which was worn. I've had
most of the general upkeep on the car done, major
tune-ups and a few minor ones. Oil changes, by and
large. Use 'regular' gas though. Mechanic says there is
carbon buildup in the cylinders, and compression for
each cylinder reads: 1 - 165; 2 - 205; 3 - 185; 4 - 195;
5 - 205; 6 - 130. Mechanic wants to re-build engine -
says it's the only way. Cost is about $5200. (Does that
seem high?) Says he can't get a re-built anywhere
locally and needs to have my motor re-built. Says new
motor from Isuzu would cost more than $6200 to buy and
install. Engine SEEMS to run basically fine. Idles
great, runs fine. Never any trouble. Doesn't shoot out
dark smoke or anything when I start it or drive it,
although you can see from tailpipe that there is a fair
amount of carbon buildup there. Had trouble passing smog
test twice before. Should I pay to replace the cat and
O2 sensor, betting that this might fix the problem? Or
will the carbon deposits and bad compression force me to
need a new motor regardless?
Answer: Before you spend money on
a rebuilt engine, we would suggest scanning the computer
for fault codes. Replacing the mass air flow sensor and
the oxygen sensor would be a good idea. The compression
numbers, although not ideal, are not that bad.
Question: 1999 Subaru Outback,
mileage: 117,000. Runs really good, but won't pass
Calif. smog. Any pointers for things to replace, where
to buy and list in the order of highest probability of
causing smog check failure. I replaced, oil filer, air
filter, PCV, wires, spark plugs, I don't know too much
about the EGR Valve, Anti-After burn Valve, and ECS
canister...novice mechanic but can follow
directions...any advice appreciated. Also, I need a
driver's seat and have been unable to locate one.
Answer: Its sounds like your
catalytic converter or oxygen sensor has failed. Test to
replace as needed, recheck system.
Question: 1997 Ford F-250 mileage:
150,000. Thanks for all of the great info on your page.
A wealth of info to say the least. I have a question for
you of which I am stumped. Living in Arizona I need to
pass emissions and thus the need to correct something
with the fuel injection or emissions and I am hoping you
can help. I just bought a Ford F250 7.5ltr with 150,000
miles on it. Replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, and made
sure all hoses are connected. The idle was kind of high
the first time I went in (~1500 rpm in park). The first
emission test: HC (Hydrocarbons PPM) Loaded 185 (300
pass) Idle 275 (300 Pass) CO (Carbon Monoxide %) Loaded
2.53 (3.00 pass) Idle 5.2 (4.00 FAIL) I replaced the
PCV, Next test: HC Loaded --> 181 (OK) Idle 558 <--FAIL
CO Loaded --> 2.08 (OK) Idle 8.37 <---FAIL BIG TIME! The
previous owner put some type of hand valve between the
PCV and the port on the intake manifold. It looked like
it was perpendicular to the line (off) during the first
test thus I opened it for the second test. I am unsure
the reason behind putting a hand valve there? What do
you think? O2 sensor? Timing? Any help would be great...
Thanks again for your helpful site.Answer: Scan the PCM for trouble
codes, It sounds like you have a mass air flow sensor
that is weak. If no codes are present try replacing it
with a new unit to recheck system.
Question: 1998 Plymouth Acclaim
mileage: 120,000. I failed the emissions testing at my
local inspection station. I had about 1800 NOx where my
standard is 970 NOx. Al the others were fine, what can I
my-self do to help lower this emission so I don't have
to spend so much money with a professional.
Answer: Check the operation of
the EGR valve. If it is okay, you may have to replace
the catalytic converter.
Question: 2001 Toyota Pickup Tundra
mileage: 50,000. I cannot get this truck through smog.
The readings are great at Idle, but at 2500 rpm there is
2% CO 30 ppm HC 1% O2 and 13.5% CO2. I know this is a
rich running condition. I have changed the 02 sensor,
and nothing. Before I replace the injectors, I wanted to
ask you guys. Thanks
Answer: Your mass air flow sensor or
oxygen sensor may be the problem, scan your PCM for
trouble codes to repair as needed.
Question: 1999 Ford Explorer
mileage: 106,000. My Explorer will not pass inspection
because emissions are too high. A friend told me that
one of the cylinders is not firing. He checked the
compression and the reason is that the valves are not
operating properly. There are no valve adjustments for
this year. What other options do I have?
Answer: Check for a flat
camshaft. If okay, perform a cylinder leak down test,
which will pinpoint which valve is causing the problems.
You may have to remove and repair the cylinder head to
correct this.
Question: 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix
mileage: 90,000. My car failed emissions testing with a
high HC rating at high speed and idle. I changed the
spark plugs, air filter, oil, and oil filter. When I
returned for a retest, the high-speed passed with HC
well below the standard. However, the HC rose from 363
ppm to 426 at idle, so it failed the second time as
well. I've also noticed that sometimes when it starts,
the engine will almost die, but then the choke kicks in
and shoots the RPM up. It then seems to idle fine.
Sometimes as well, when the transmission is in gear, the
engine will oscillate and almost die, then speed back up
to idle, then almost die, and so forth. Any ideas?
Answer: Scan the PCM for fault
codes and also check the oxygen sensor and mass air flow
sensor.
Question:
1999 Pontiac
Firebird Formula
mileage: 90,000. We recently acquired a Firebird
Formula with a fuel injection engine. It has high
mileage but ran extremely well with a smooth idle and
great pickup until last week when we had a diagnostic
done on it because it failed emissions testing.
The diagnostic supposedly revealed a leaking intake
manifold gasket and the need for a new spark plugs and
plug wires. This car was running fine when we took
it in and barely running when we picked it up. It
is difficult to start, idles so low that it dies
whenever you slow down or stop, and sounds like it is
missing very badly when it's just sitting and idling.
The place that did the diagnostic had no idea of a cause
for the instant change in the way the car was running
and no suggestions as to how to restore it to how it
was, just that nothing they did would have caused it.
We put on the new gasket (which by the way didn't look
bad at all to us) as well as a couple other inexpensive
parts like a thermostat and PCV valve while we had it
all apart, and also put a new distributor cap, rotor,
plugs, and plug wires on it as advised.
Unfortunately, it is still the same as it was when we
picked it up. It seems like we have checked
everything but can't find anything disconnected or any
cause for the low idle. We also do not understand
why the computer module won't compensate for the idle
because it appears to adjust other things when they are
changed. Could something simple have happened when
the diagnostic was done to cause this drastic change, or
could it have caused a problem we can't figure out?
Our inclination is to have another diagnostic done
somewhere else to see what shows up but any other
suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Answer:
It sounds like you have a failed injector on one or more
of the cylinders. Inspect injector to replace as needed,
recheck system.
Question:
2001 Cadillac Seville STS
mileage: 80,000.
Could not pass California smog, all readings with the
exception of NOx were way below minimum. NOx was
ok at idle and 15 mph after that item went off scale.
What should I look at first EGR or catalytic converter
(its the original)? Any other hints would be more
than helpful. Thanks
Answer:
Try the EGR first as the passages may be plugged or the
valve not opening properly. It is also the easiest
solution, next check the catalytic converter.
Question:
1997 Mercury Grand Marquis mileage: 132,000. I
cannot pass emissions testing. I first brought my
car in and failed on HC and CO. About a week later
I tried again burning premium fuel and after adding some
emission system cleaner. I was still high on CO
and HC. So then, I changed the air filter spark
plugs and ignition wires. I then went back and
tested again. I added some rubbing alcohol to my
fuel tank to try to get it to burn a bit cleaner.
My CO and HC jumped about 50% each. I do not want
to sink too much money into this car. What should
I do? Oxygen Sensor? Get the computer
checked?
Answer: Scan your PCM for trouble
codes, if no codes present try replacing the oxygen
sensor, mass air flow sensor.
Question:
1999 Dodge 1500 Van mileage: 120,000. Where we
live at we have an annual Emission Test for our
vehicles. This year my van did not pass. I
changed the spark plugs, wires, but would not pass any
ideas?
Answer:
Make sure it has been tuned up and that the fuel
injection is clean. Then check your catalytic converter
performance, replace as needed.
Question:
2000 Ford Ranger mileage: 83,500. When I took it
in to get it inspected, the guy told me that it was very
close, but not quite passing on the low end. I had
new plugs and plug wires put in approximately 3 months
before, and since I took it in, I put in a new air
filter and new PCV valve. I have always run
mid-grade gas in it. Could you give me any more
suggestions?
Answer:
Scan the PCM for trouble codes, if no codes are present
try replacing the mass air flow sensor and primary
oxygen sensors.
Question:
1998 Buick Le Sabre mileage: 126,000. I inherited
this car and it fails emissions test. There are no
fault codes, car runs well except for a loping idle and
sometimes a spit and die at idle. HC and CO are
way out of range. O2 reads .8v at idle.
Exhaust smells very rich. I have replaced the ECT
and TP sensors, plugs, wires and filters. Fuel
pressure is 40 psi. I need voltage specs for the
TP and MAF sensors.
Answer:
Reference voltage is 5 volts at the sensor. Fuel
pressure should be 35 pounds. Check compression
and check for vacuum leaks also check that the EGR valve
is not hanging up. Replace Oxygen sensor.
Question: 1988
Nissan Sentra 1.6 tbi,_mileage: 200,000. I can’t pass
emissions. Limits are HC 220, CO 1.20. I read HC 318, CO
5.63. Airflow meter & ISC read ok. Timing is ok. Valve
job two yrs ago (broken belt). O� sensor 1 yr ago. Car
runs ok. HELP!
Answer: The
reasons for the high emission are numerous. The list
starts with a malfunctioning catalytic converter, a
faulty engine management computer system to a "tired"
engine with excessive blow by and using oil.
Question: 1982 Toyota Pickup mileage: 135,000 My 2 wheel drive, 3 speed manual, recently didn't pass smog here in California for an exhaust leak and missing a vacuum hose from what looks like the EGR valve, but there are no hoses that are not hanging anywhere that aren't hooked up. So where do I start? The catalytic converter and muffler and O2 sensor have been replaced recently and are they all good? Help Please!
Answer: You can fabricate a doctor's ear and start at the exhaust manifold all the way to the end side of the C/Converter. You are probably leaking ahead of the converter and not being scrubbed/cleaned and polluting the air. You failed on this one.
The EGR prevents NOx to formed-it is operated by a ported vacuum thru a TVSV/VSV/Transducer, you need to confirm this with the VECI on the hood as per its routing.

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