Engine will not start to point Spark Plugs wet with fuel?

Tiny
ROBOTUSSINBUZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1971 CHEVROLET 3500
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 99,999 MILES
Engine is not original to truck. Block shows it could be anything from a truck to a Chevelle from 72-74. Ring rebuilt it and put on new Carb (Edelbrock 1405) and new Distributor (Accel 59130). Compression stands at 120. Adjusted floats and there was fuel in the bowls. Pins moved fine and like I said, spark plugs will get wet. If I turn it enough it will start to hydro lock with fuel. Spark plugs are firing (tested with spark plug tester). Before putting on a new distributor, had a point system and got it running poorly and very, very rich. Reading after the fact makes me think I should've gone with 500 cfm instead of 600.

But, I would just like to get it to fire up before going down that road.

The one weird thing with the Distributor - the manufacturer sticker points to the back even though the vacuum port is to the passenger side and pointing more forward than backward (which is how I've seen every other distributor for a 350).
Saturday, March 4th, 2023 AT 12:08 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
  • 653 POSTS
Hello,

So, the vacuum advance on the distributer has a few different colored springs to control the advance. Did yours come with extra springs? Also. What was the model of distributor you put in? I would like to see if I can find the instructions for it. Vacuum advance should affect it until you are actually moving but it's best to check anyway.

Also have you tried turning the distributor a few degrees and see if that helps?

I would also try and adjust the fuel/ air or idle mixture screw on the carburetor. I usually turn it all the way in and start with 2 1/2 turns back out.

Another thing to think about is fuel pressure. I believe it should be around 16 PSI.

Also does this carb have an automatic choke? This needs to be unhooked while adjusting the carburetor in my opinion. Personally, I think the automatic choke are not very good.

I would pull all the plugs and let them dry out as well as letting the cylinders dry out. If it has been dumping fuel, you might want to put some fresh oil in it.

I am sending images of the instructions for the carburetor. Hopefully it will help. I would start over personally to make sure everything is where it needs to be.

I would check all vacuum lines and make sure you have caps on any unused port. I know this is obvious, but I just want to give you the best information possible.

Again, if you send me the make and model of the distributor, I can get you some instructions for that as well.

The instructions are kind of broken up and I apologize. I have to upload snippets because PDF versions aren't aloud.

Let me know how you make out and message me back. I will be here. Hope this information helps.

Thank you,
Brendon
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 8:47 AM
Tiny
ROBOTUSSINBUZZ
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Forgot to mention. It's a manual choke.
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 10:30 AM
Tiny
ROBOTUSSINBUZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thanks for the advice. I have the instructions on the distributor, and they are sparse.

https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/acc-59130.pdf

It has a mechanical and vacuum advance. The mechanical is 22 degrees, and the vacuum adjustment allows different degrees. I did the 14-17 degree setting as I believe the 350 needs up to 40? Please let me know if I'm wrong on that.

I'll open everything up and look to replace the oil. When I tested the spark plugs, I actually had the fuel go into a pail to avoid the extra fuel problem.

I'll do the instructions you gave me on the carburetor and let you know the difference. I did try turning the distributor. Maybe not enough - do you have suggestions on how you would go about doing that?
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 10:30 AM
Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
  • 653 POSTS
Hello, ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

Glad to hear it is a manual choke. I do not like those automatic chokes. Junk.

We used to rip out those accel distributors and throw them in the trash and use MSD. But MSD isn't perfect either, but you are getting spark so let's put that on the back burner for now.

Just seems like it's dumping too much fuel, or it's not timed right. It's one thing to have soaked plugs but hydro locking because of it is quite excessive.

Is it trying to start at all? What about any backfiring?

Also, the directions from Edelbrock aren't very informative either.

Can you adjust the choke to try and see if you can get less air coming through ultimately reducing the fuel it's giving to the engine?

Also how is the accelerator cable? Is it in good shape? Does it stick at all?

I'm thinking we need to reduce the fuel as much as we can to keep it from flooding so we can see if it wants to start. Then we can check the timing depending on how it reacts.

Also, I know you said you had spark with the tester. Maybe it wouldn't hurt to put a good set of plugs in. I would remove one put it against the block and have an assistant try to turn it over and see what the spark looks like on the plug itself. Maybe even clean it lightly with some emery cloth and set the gap.

Is the distributor new? Did you just get it, and did it run before the distributor was changed?

Just trying to rule things out.

I tried calling Edelbrock, but they are closed because it's Sunday. So, I will call them in the morning and see if they can give us any insight into what may be going on.

I would work on those few things, and I will continue to work from my end, and we will see what we come up with.

Thank you,
Brendon
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 12:39 PM
Tiny
ROBOTUSSINBUZZ
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Thanks.

I think I might have found the fuel issue (even though I haven't fixed it yet). Shot fuel out of the carb - so pretty sure there is a needle valve stuck in the open position. The gasket between the top and bottom parts was ripped as well at the air cleaner bolt. Maybe it was a return? Didn't look like it but I find it hard to believe it came out of the factory like that.

The Accel was me trying to get it to run before the next paycheck. Stupid in hindsight.

The accelerator cable is original, and I don't see any sticking at all when using it.

I'm torn between getting it running with what I have and waiting to purchase a better distributor and a 500 cfm carb. Taking money out of equation - does it make sense to do the later?
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 12:58 PM
Tiny
ROBOTUSSINBUZZ
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I did find this in the Edelbrock documentation, they are saying to try to keep fuel pressure to below 6. The stock fuel pump is between 6 and 8 PSI, isn't it?
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
  • 653 POSTS
Hello ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

Personally, I would try rebuilding the carburetor. If it doesn't work, then you are right back where you started. I will say those are pretty reliable carbs. I would think a 600cfm would be a good size for a 350 but a 500cfm 4 barrel would be good too but you don't want to be under powered either.

I found this formula I thought might be helpful:

"To arrive at the most appropriate carburetor choice, there's a basic formula: engine displacement multiplied by maximum rpm divided by 3,456. For example: a typical 355ci small-blockā€ a 0.030-over rebuildā€ with a 6,000-rpm max engine speed would work well with a 616-cfm carb (355 x 6,000) 3,456 = 616.32)."

Sounds like you are right where you need to be.

I would try with what you got, get a rebuild kit and go right through it. As far as the distributor I would run it for now and upgrade down the road and get a really nice one. The new "corn fuel" I call it gums these things up pretty easily.

I always like the MSD Billet Series myself. Easy to hook up and maintain. Plus, they look pretty clean.

Keep in touch. Let me know how it goes and thank you for having an interesting question. Hope everything works out.

Thank you,
Brendon
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
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Hello ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

I'm not sure let me see what I can find out real quick.
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 1:32 PM
Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
  • 653 POSTS
Hello ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

My tech info doesn't give me info on that, and I don't want to pull something offline and give you the wrong information. I would take the fuel line off at the carburetor and put a T-fitting on and thread on a gauge and reconnect it and see what you're at. Does it have an old school manual fuel pump on the passenger side of the motor?

If so, you will have to crank it but if there is an electric one you can just prime it and see where it is at.

Better to have the exact measurement anyways but I will look further into it and see what I can find for you. If you come up with it in the meantime let me know.

Thank you,
Brendon
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 1:46 PM
Tiny
ROBOTUSSINBUZZ
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I have the mechanical on the passenger side. Kind of stuck until I get the rebuild kit on carburetor. I'll be able to do the fuel pressure though.
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
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Hello ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

Okay. Let me know what you find out and just reply back to this message.

Hope you have a good rest of your day.

Thank you,
Brendon
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Sunday, March 5th, 2023 AT 2:14 PM
Tiny
ROBOTUSSINBUZZ
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
FYI - Got it running (smaller carb and HEI).

Hunting down a vacuum leak between engine and brake booster (I think) that is killing the engine when braking. And, then there are the two seals I need to redo because it's my first engine and I can't expect to do everything right the first time. But, she runs and I've taken it for a short drive.
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Wednesday, April 12th, 2023 AT 7:11 PM
Tiny
BRENDON S
  • MECHANIC
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Good morning, ROBOTUSSINBUZZ,

That's awesome glad to hear it!

Thank you very much for the update as it will help someone in the future.

If I can assist any further, please let me know or you can also start a new question.

Thank you,
Brendon
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Thursday, April 13th, 2023 AT 8:38 AM

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