My engine will not run over - starter not working?

Good evening,

Not stupid at all.

That green stuff is the cause. You need to replace that cable as all that corrosion is preventing any voltage from flowing.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/everything-goes-dead-when-engine-is-cranked

Replace the cable from the battery down with a new cable. You can get them at a parts store. You will need to measure the length of the cable to be sure you have enough cable to run it the same way it is run right there.

Roy

It sounds like there are multiple issues, but it all started with nothing more than a defective battery. The clue is your dandy observation of the excessive corrosion. As all batteries age, the lead slowly flakes off the plates. Battery manufacturers know that is going to happen, and how quickly. They provide the longest warranties they think they can get away with which is typically five years.

As more and more of that lead flakes off the plates, the electrical size of the battery becomes smaller and smaller. It will still crank most engines just fine, but not for as long, if necessary, as when it was new. The bigger concern is when that battery recharges once the engine is running. The amount of charging current going through the battery is determined, in part, by the charging voltage, and that is designed in to match the needs of the entire electrical system. The battery will charge at the intended rate, but with much of the lead flaked off the plates, that current gets packed into a smaller area, and that causes the plates to heat up more than normal.

These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Did the old starter do the same thing? It sounds like a bad solenoid. Also, check the starter relay to make sure it is working properly.

Intermittents are hard to find but here is a schematic of the start system for you to check. Look a the main fusiblelink where the arrow is. Check for maybe one or two strands of wires still connected. If that's is like that replace the whole llink. Ancd checkthe fuses underhood as well as the relay. The relay may have corrosion on it, if it doesn try cleaning it as well as the spade connector then put some dielectric compound on it to get better contact.

Removal

1. Disconnect and shield negative battery cable. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL & AIR BAG. Remove upper and lower steering column covers. Remove combination switch (if necessary).
2. Disconnect ignition switch harness connectors. If shear bolt studs are accessible,  use a hacksaw to cut slots into exposed studs. Using a screwdriver,  remove studs.
3. If shear bolt studs are recessed or hard to reach with a hacksaw,  center punch studs. Using a drill bit and screw extractor,  remove studs. Remove ignition switch,  column upper bracket and lock cylinder.
4. To remove lock cylinder from column upper bracket,  place ignition key to ACC position. Using a screwdriver,  push down on stop pin located on side of column upper bracket. Pull out lock cylinder.

Installation

1. To install,  reverse removal procedure. Install NEW shear bolts. Tighten shear bolts finger tight. Ensure proper operation of ignition switch and lock cylinder.
2. Tighten shear bolts until heads break off. Install combination switch,  upper and lower steering column covers and steering wheel. Tighten steering wheel nut to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Make absolutely sure that you disconnect the battery so the air bag won'texplode on you. This should really be done by a pro. Also if you have a tilt wheel it's different procedure.

No. You can do it quite easily. The directions above are for R&R of the ignition lock cylinder. Here they are for the actual ignition switch. Test it with a meter or test light before deciding it needs to be changed.

STEERING COLUMN SWITCHES -2000 Toyota Celica GT
Page 1 of 1
IGNITION SWITCH
Removal & Installation
1.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove upper and lower steering column covers (it may be necessary to first remove lower instrument panel trim panel). Remove outer plastic trim cover
from lock cylinder assembly (if equipped).
2. Disconnect ignition switch harness connector(s). Remove screw(s) retaining ignition switch to lock cylinder. Remove ignition switch from lock cylinder. To install, reverse removal procedure.

Hello !
I would start checking the connectors and terminals on both ends (batt. And Starter)

Then check the "signal" wire that tells the starter to engage (check for a voltage when cranking with a light tester)

and also check the clutch switch

sometimes the solenoid on cold weather freezes and wont "push" the bendix (the gear that turns the flywheel) and the starter motor wont engage (the bendix closes a contact to tell the starter motor to actuate)

check that and let us Know!

Good Luck!

Hi there,

First make sure all electrical connections are clean and tight, have battery load tested to prove viability and then check charge rate at alternator. With all this ok, check that starter is working. Will it turn over the motor? Check this and if still having problems with Starting (not cranking) re post.

Mark (mhpautos)

Smoke from wires shorting could mean some wires are burnt and you would need to go to the source of the smoke to check the wire harness conditions. The starting circuit is faulty if it is not cranking and you would need to find out where power source is missing.

Recheck your stereo wiring. Some could be wrongly installed or a wire is exposed causing the shorting.

Assuming you mean it wont crank, could be a bad starter/solenoid. Check for 12 volts at the small wire on the starter with key in crank position. If it has power then the starter needs to be replaced. If none, then get back to me and we will figure out where it stops.